BOOSTD

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will do, also the exh/turbine housing has been ported.

VG30 upgrade for Rb20/25 ported exh/turbine housing Fully reconditioned ball bearing Unknown flow specs-bought direct from japan. The wheels spin freely and have absolutely no movement. Compressor wheel 46mm top dia and 62mm lower Turbine wheel 48mm only askin $370 to make my money back as I bought it by mistake. Ph 0413023669 cheers matt.

I think he means fuel fouling up the plugs. the first thing you will want is a boost cut defender to run the boost you are after. Also sounds like ur plugs need to be regapped to 0.7mm to stop the missing you are getting, go to a colder plug like a BPES7 NGK. The APEXi SAFC doesn't just plug in, it will have to be wired. If you want a 50kw@13psi power increase buy a APEXi Power FC. It will cost more but plugs straight in, removes boost cut and 180kmph limiter. They are pretty cheap at the mo with the price of the yen.

check your pm hipster!

hippy- can't you post the pix in the SA cruise folder on the site?? Can you post em to me I`ll pm you my email address

replace em, cause if the timing belt breaks ur valves will hit ur pistons and bye bye engine.

Miss_33 we ended up at tea tree plaza (after Gawler), had lost a few cars, but, also picked up a couple of followers from Gawler. Everyone left in quite spectacular fashion.** I'll leave out names but I sure you can gather ** Evo did a full 4x4 560 drift b4 thinking the trolley bay was getting alittle close. The S15 managed a nice donut and b/out after trying to be to nice to his clutch and driveline and stalling. The 265 odd kw 32 (after 5 360's at 80kph wasn't enough) did a huge b/out.A GTR Vspev 33 showed why nothing can get close to them in the wet with a sling shot 6000rpm take off. And a car very similar to mine... drfted around the light post then all the way out to the main rd round about. You can imagine why I was the last to leave......still buzzin Hippy: glad you liked my rice! lucky our sexual skylines have the go to match.

13:1 fuel ratios will get you there. Usually tune for 12.3:1 or so drive it for a couple of weeks to make sure your ignition advance is correct then screw the mixtures down.

Roy13- I now have a HKS solid centre twin plate clutch. I would highly recommend against it. I rattles like a nothing I`ve heard before, it is almost impossible to start of at the lights without spinning the wheels or stalling and if you try and slip it most of the time it shudders. On the other side of things when you want to go fast its the best clutch I've ever had. I chirp 5th gear quite often. Bottem line if you want drivability buy a OS giken sprung centre stay very clear of solids. If you want out right speed and you don't care if you car sounds and drives worse than a truck, go for the HKS. DennisRB30- I think the escort had some sort of engine problem...he must have -dunno. he had the bonnet up for a while after but still continued to race later in the day. It's a pretty well known car, the number plate is RTA 350.

610-me 953- Ford 350 V8 powered Escort ( not a happy camper! ) click to view slip click to view thread

hey greg, you can give it a go-might be an idea to compare the two and make sure there isn't a huge difference between maps. what works for me might make no pwr for you and blow ur engine. Steve- is what ur after different to the file i already posted up top?

pm me how much.

Yes, Mick now works for tilbrooks here in adelaide. Thats the guy from the serious performance 6 video

second hand HKS adjustable cam gear for 33 gtst

Actually. I saw the two Matrix films the other weekend and I must say I was almost going to ask for a refund because I could hardly see the picture. The brightness was way to low! Might be an idea to park reasonably close.

might be alittle optimistic. 13.5 would be more on the cards. The rev speed meter has trouble with 60 foot time.

Make sure you get one with two nipples, a level meter and a drain plug. Also the nipples should direct the air/vapour almost directly onto a metal plate, have a look inside one and you will see what I mean. I have seen some cheap cans that don't have this and fail to separate the oil and air properly which causes the filter to get blocked very quickly.

Yes you need a catch can or u will force all the oily vapours through ur intake pipe in front of your turbo. Then the oil and crud will get stuck in ur cooler and be a whole lot worse.

I'll be there 2

I agree. Your oil collects condensation overnight, which is the first thing to evaporate when you are warming up your engine. I don't like to come on boost when my engine is cold so all the crap would be going thro my engine(with the PVC valve operating). I have already experienced the following effects by blocking off the PVC valve- Cleaner oil, cleaner plugs , sh*t tins better fuel economy, no condensation coming out of my exhuast, cleaner intake system. from what I can see it does nothing at all to improve your engine just pollution control. I found a small screw fits nicely into the PVC valve and still looks standard.

Only one way to find out. The standard computer will be holding it back tho. Let me guess, when the wick is turned up past 10psi ur mixtures go ultra rich.

MFX_R33- Nice one !!! Its always good when you find stuff like that. Guess what.... I got 460km from a tank instead of 370 after fixing the leak. I'm on my second tank full now and have 310 km on the clock and just under 3/4 of a tank left! The car is ten times smoother now around light closed loop throttle aswell. I think because the closed loop operation works so much better without a leak that the car doesn't understand explains my new super economy. Don't forget to remap your light load points.