Sciby

You probably won't notice an actual increase in power, as all you're doing is giving more pressure to the fuel system. Say you put larger injectors in, the current pump may have problems proving enough pressure for the new 'jectors to fire properly. Put in a better pump, the injectors can fire properly, everything's happy. That's what a new pump will do for you. Not a bad thing to do though. Better pumps are generally stronger and less prone to shitting themselves. $200 doesn't sound too bad.

If you don't know, toothpaste is also good for getting minor scratches out of cd's.

Erm... that's what I did. Except for the washer bit. *shrug*

Well, you probably don't need to remove the tray if there's a cut out to get at the plug, but *shrugs*... doesn't hurt.

Probably not. I got my oil changed a while ago... if someone wants to pm me with a massively easy way to do it, I'd do it and document it.

Good advice. As for jacking, the plug is to the back of the of the sump, so I'd say jacking at the front is the best idea.

Well, I said not to do it when the engine is hot, so that's pretty much the same thing. Good advice, although since we know that an rb25 holds 4.5l, I think it's pretty safe to put that amount in and go. If you were changing it on an engine you were unfamiliar with, then yeah, let it settle, then check and top up. I actually made a mistake, the oil is/was 5w40, not 5w50, my bad, but it's the only grade of Motor 1 I could get, so... *shrugs* I did read an article once on oil grades, but promptly forgot it. If anyone wants to knock one up for in here, and tack it onto the end of the oil thing. Helpful for newbies, etc. All I remember is, thin fast oil for new engines, thicker oil for older engines.

Unfortunately, I had a 5000km round trip to Syd and life had gotten in the road. It's all changed now, so it's all good.

Gearbox episode? Who said I was doing a gearbox episode? I think you got confused with Skyline33's request.

Don't take it out until you've drained the engine and then put the new one in straight away. Don't put it on after you put the new oil in, because the new oil won't be in anymore. And yes, you're going blind. :eek:

Lies, all lies!

Ah, forgot to say in the ... er... second draft (stupid bloody forum software freaked out about too many photos in the first one), that I forgot to get filter photos, but the instructions are there.

Right. The old crap oil is out, the filter has been replaced, the sump plug is back in. Time for the new oil. MAKE SURE THE SUMP PLUG IS IN. Get yourself a funnel (or make one like I did, mine's made from the backing cardboard of the oil wrench) and pour in 3.5-4l. From all reports, an RB25DET will hold 4.5l. Once most of it is in, turn over the engine. The oil pressure light will freak out for a minute, but will then go out. Let it idle for 30 seconds or so, then turn it off and pour the remaining oil in. Check your level and don't overfill! Put the plastic bottom engine cover thingy back on and close the bonnet. Take your freshly lubricated baby for a spin, but don't fang it too hard for the first 5-10 minutes. Then fang it hard. And that's it. Coming soon from Sciby's Skyline Crap-o-rama Maintenance Stuff: How to change your suspension (gotta change mine soon).

Okay, by now you should have oil pouring into the tray. If you're an idiot like me, you'll have two trays sitting inside each other with oil in the top one. This will cause you to spill a drop or two of oil when you try to change them over: God, I'm beautiful. Anyway, let the oil finish draining, should take about 5-10 minutes. Do the filter in the meantime. The filter is mounted in the driver's side of the engine block, pretty much in the dead center. To undo it, turn it counter-clockwise, and oil will spurt everywhere as well. Don't worry about it, you can't do much about it, just try to minimise the mess and make sure you have the oil tray ready underneath it. Unfortunately, we don't have photos of changing the filter, but you get that. Give the filter mount point a bit of a wipe with a rag and get the new one. Screw the new filter in hand-tight, clockwise. I've been told it should be hand-tight, and that's it, and I've heard that it should be hand-tight and a quarter turn with the oil wrench. We did handtight and my engine's internals haven't become externals, so I think handtight is fine. Go back to the oil tray and look for that sump plug that went walkies. Make sure it's also got its washer still on it. If it doesn't, go looking again in the oil. It's nice and warm and sticky anyway, so it's not that much of a problem. It does make you wanna pee though. Clean up the sump plug and washer, put them back in, and give the engine bay a quick blast with the degreaser to get rid of any remaining old oil. Oh, and old oil is a proven carcinogenic, so avoid putting your hands in it. *cough*

Greetings peoples. Oil is very important in your car. It makes things move nice and smoothly and stops things from getting too hot from naughty friction and it's also great for frying chips in. I got my oil changed at 89,000km when the Scibyline was complianced. Unfortunately, thanks to being a lazy tart, I hadn't changed the oil for 11,000kms. This is not good. I decided to run out and change my oil, pronto. Hopefully it would resolve some small issues I've been having, such as an excessive amount of engine braking when doing it. Hard to explain, but trust me, it was Not Happy. My assistant for this was Moshi Moshi. He took photos and his small weedy arms could get to the oil filter where mine got stuck. First things first, jack up the car. I have a few things to say about jacking up the car. First, make sure you're not an idiot like me and you put the jack on the RIGHT side of the car. It'll make it so much easier to get to the sump plug and the oil filter if you don't have a thin-armed Moshi Moshi around to grab things. Also, don't trust the car jack to support the car. I mean, it'll hold it's weight, but never trust anything that looks that flimsy. I got a couple of 1,500kg car stands. I couldn't find anywhere to actually set them under safely, so I stood one under the chassis rail, in the hope that if the jack collapsed, it'd give me a second to frantically scrabble out of the way. Also, make sure you chock the rear wheels with a couple of bricks. Right, things you'll need: An oil tray. Get one that can hold 5 liters. Don't be a cheaparse like me and get 2l Glad Bake aluminium trays. You'll see why later. An oil wrench. Any will do, as long as it works. An oil filter. For Skyline's (and VL's if you care), you'll need a 145A type filter. I got a valvoline brand one, cost $8.95 from Supercheap. Oil. Get a decent synthetic, like Mobil 1. The stuff I got is like 5w40 or something. Cost $45 for 5l. A socket set with a 10mm and a 14mm sockets. Rags. Many, many rags. A cheapo $2 can of degreaser won't hurt either. And soap. Soap helps. Trust me. Right, first thing to do is detact the plastic tray cover doovy under the engine bay with the 10mm socket. There's 6 screws: 3 at the front, 3 at the back. Get it off and fling it to the side for now. You can see how I've flung mine in the second photo. Get on your back and wriggle under the car until your face is near the engine sump. On the driver's side, you will see a small plug, called "the oil sump plug". Don't touch it yet, unless you want to get messy. I'll take a moment here to say that the engine shouldn't be hot. Don't go for 5 quarter mile runs then run off and change your oil. Bandaid's will only do so much. Here's me checking the heat of the sump. It was warm, but not painful. Thank god. I would have cried like a girl otherwise. Get the 14mm socket and the oil tray. Position the oil tray underneath the plug and undo it. When it gets to the end of the thread, the oil will spurt out and most likely whip the plug out of your hands and into the tray. Don't worry about it, you can get it later when you play with the warm, weird-feeling oil. (You know you will, don't deny it.)

Definitely get it on a dyno for a diagnosic run as has already been suggested. Get them to check your air-fuel mix, fuel pressure and whatever sensors they can. I went from 95hp and really lean, found my coolant temp sensor was dead, went back to 150hp (with a badly slipping clutch) and all is well again. Apart from the clutch. Your problem may not be and probably isn't the coolant temp sensor, but it's an example of how a good dyno diagnostic run can pick up these things.

Fronts are similar to rear, loosen nuts on wheels, jack up car, take off wheel, unscreen retaining nut on bottom of damper, unscrew 3 top nuts on tower top, then (from memory here, did this ages ago), you will have to lever down the bottom suspension arm so you can pull the bottom of the damper off the bolt and pull the whole unit down and out. I have to change my suspension back again some time to my good stuff, so I might go a photo'd guide to it all.

Regardless of weither you get the ticket or not, I'd suggest not driving hard for a while... we all do it, especially at 1am, but if you're worried about 1 point, it's simple: Don't speed. Nothing is causing you to speed except yourself. I know it's hard not to, I got a 92 over 70 ticket on New Years Eve, 20 minutes after midnight and we all own performance cares, so I sympathise, but if you're worried about that last point, again, don't speed. If you do get a ticket, don't fight it, there's no point. Radar systems have logs, and as was stated before, police travel in pairs for witnessing these things, not just so one can fire blindly and the other can run for the donuts. Take the fine like a man and ease up on the right pedal for a while...

I have a small problem with what to do with suspension... The 33 originally came over with full adjustable (height/rate and damper rate) Cusco coilovers on it, which were lowish and extremely hard (even with the damper rate right down), which was great on good roads, but the roads in the town I live in are utter rubbish, so the car was soon trying to shake itself to bits. I've fitted the stock suspension for now (it was nicely included in the car deal), but now I have 4 cusco coilovers sitting in a box that I'd like to make use of. I'm not going to be dragging in it often, and definitely won't be drifting it: it's purely road and a bit of track when I get a bloodrush. My understanding for a situation like mine is to have nice soft springs and fairly hard dampers. With this in mind, I was going to organise to get a soft of softer springs from Whiteline or Pedders to the Cusco dampers and just dial in the damper rate that suits me and what I'm doing. Am I on the right track here or am I heading in completely the wrong direction? I'd like a firm ride, with as little body roll as possible, without destroying the car from bumps.

Perfect run are fine, quick and easy... not cheap on the freight, but then again, who is? (And it's "dealt", not "dealed")

Er... a bit hard to put the mesh back on, it's been literally ripped out... only the rear one though, the front one is still there...just like quite a few others have done, with no issues... *shrugs*... filter is dry type... you would think that considering the whole thing about nissan programming the skylines to be on the rich side, it would constantly state rich, or at least, for most of the time. Probably also should mention that I demeshed the afm because I thought it may help with the problems I've been experiencing (ie, I was having the problems before I did the mesh), although it doesn't seem that way... perhaps I'll borrow a full afm from someone and see what changes it makes.

**bumpage**

Hey old timer. nah, no FMIC yet... broke as, badly need a new clutch first... the stock one is like almost mirror finished. K, ran diags before, normal tests claim "ok", but I ran the O2 sensor realtime... and it was flashing on (for "lean") every second, like: lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich... like it was undecided... I decided to deviate from the "Run at 2k rpm" run and revved it up through the rpms, and it was about 50/50 lean/rich... it makes me wonder if my o2 sensor is buggered, because even sitting there, I can take my foot off the noise pedal and it'll pop and fart, indicating to me that it's still running rich, as Nissan programmed it to do. Any opinions on this?

Hi guys, As the subject says, the poor ScibyLine has been losing power lately, and it's rather annoying. Any suggestions would be most helpful. * Car is mostly stock in terms of performance... has a cat-back Apex'i RS zorst and an Apex'i Power funnel filter, replacing a HKS super happy filter thingy. * Changes made lately: Put new filter on and cleaned and de-meshed the AFM. Next lot was new plugs, new gearbox oil, new fuel filter (new filter was because of the power issues, thought it might have been the culprit, no such luck). ECU has been reset a couple of times, made no real changes/improvements. * Symptoms: Idles rougher than normal, very thub-thub-thub as opposed to the usual smoothness. When accelerating from a stop, there seems to be a hole in the power, ie: the throttle at 50% gives the same acceleration as 30%, not as responsive. You have to give it a bootful to get past this hole and then the turbo will start boosting... although even when the turbo is boosting, it still doesn't have the same power as it used to. Another strange one is when coming to the lights to stop, I put it into neutral, clutch out, brakes on gently, just before it comes to a complete stop, rpm dips and the car phsycially shakes, almost like I've still got the clutch in and I'm engine-braking and letting it stall out... NB: The clutch plate is dying, but I can usually tell when it's the cause of loss of forward motion. I'm not going to put forth my ideas on what could be the problem, as I don't want to colour people's opinions and ideas... but any suggestions/tips, etc, would be excellent.

Meh, I started the thread, so I'll forgive you... No, stinky stinks are bad. In this case, if you give it a bit and it feels like the engine is bellowing but the car ain't moving like it should, or like the wheels might be spinning, but there's no screeching, then the clutch is slipping. You'll get a horrible smell through the aircon. Just buy a new clutch plate because once they start dying, they die faster and faster.