Sciby

Reset the computer by disconnecting the battery, put the brake pedal few times (to ensure there's no residual charge), then reconnect the battery. Good idea to take it for a good drive now, so it remaps itself properly. Do a search or look in the DIY section for a good thread on the subject. However, I doubt it'll make the (!) light go away. It's probably freaking out because it's no longer got a signal to the solenoid. *shrug*

Erm... australia no queensland no rockhampton o umare desu. Unh... watashi wa nihongo-ga hanashimasu. :drooling:

Er... ii desu. Demo atsui desu ne. Asoko wa sono desu. *points* *struggling*

Hush, Dave.

Ii desu yo! Erm... doko wa shinjuku eiki desu ka? watashi wa nihongo-ga joozu ja arimasen.

Heh, Thanks Dai, I feel justified now. Alas, when I posted up above, I had just started learning jap and hanging out in here... I didn't even think that people knew a stupid amount more than I do.

I have a feeling he's thinking about WRX's and their dodgy gearboxes and the slipping clutch 'safety' method.

Heh, nah, I'm referring to a kid in my town who bought a GTS-4 and almost lost it into a tree, then got a WRX believing that fulltime AWD would let him do anything. He wrote it off with no insurance.

Just do it. I found it's actually safer, especially if you're fiddled and the second stage is up to 10psi... going from 5 to 10 is disconcerting, and if you're in heavy traffic, and you're just on that threshold, it's somewhat dangerous... I'm very happy... full 10psi by 3k rpm or so, solid, smooth all the way through.

And see your turbine spit out into the exhaust 5psi before that. My 'line is an early 94, so since I'm getting 10psi, it may be that I got an actuator off a 32 turbo. *shrug* I'm happy with it at that until a new turbo comes along.

West, no offence dude, but AWD isn't the all-powerful problem saving technology that people believe it is. I don't know the situation you got bitten in (hard cornering, tail snapped out?) but AWD cars can break traction just fine, if you push them hard enough.

1) Hanko - Personal "signature" stamp... the gaijin could elaborate. 8) Pachinko - 'gambling' game that's a cross between pinball and a video game. I'd personally love the gaijin force field. I don't really enjoy people crowding up against me and like you (6'3", 110kg), I take up a lot of space, so less people around me, the better. I think the school girl thing is a Good Thing.

Hmmmm... as far as I'm aware, the 33 was supposed to be 10psi max as well. *shrugs* It works, so I no complain. Also, I believe mine is totally stock. The car was not really fiddled with when I got it. Only got mags, suspension and cat-back... no real power upgrades to speak of, so it'd be a wee bit weird if they changed the actuator spring... *scratches head* Anyone with a definitely stock 33 turbo want to remove the solenoid from the picture and see what happens?

I really have to learn how to flush and redo my brake fluid. Anyone know of any good guides?

Al - Sawheet! I was planning on getting a set myself, but was a bit wary (and I was broke), but now that you've given the royal thumbs up, I shall have to procure a set.

There is a pair of guys that make a kit for Soarers and Skylines, they cost $550 per kit... from.... Maltech Brake and Clutch Hoses Steve or David Malkin Phone 0418 378 939 or email: [email protected] or [email protected]

I used to have KYB's on the rear (along with some Pedders variable rates on the fronts, they were paired up for the roads I have to put up with)... they were good, but I decided to give up some ride for more 'feel'... So, as a result, I have the KYB's/Pedders sports ryders for sale.

Bendix ultimates are far too dusty. Rick, you've seen my car with the silver rear wheels and dark grey fronts.

This may be the old fuel pump problem raising it's head. When you're slowing down, the fuel pump switches down to half duty cycle, so it drops fuel and hence starves the engine a bit. Some engines are fine, some bomb out. Just do a search, or looking through the Guides and Articles to find more info on it. Or just buy a uprated fuel pump and be done with it.

To add on my 2 cents... You don't need the solenoid, yank it out. Connect the tube that connects to the top solenoid straight into the T piece that the bottom tube from the solenoid connects into... remove solenoid, throw it over your shoulder. I also have a boost gauge with about 2m of tubing on it, so it allows it to hit the (so I'm told) factory max boost of 10psi. Works well. It's the stock turbo and no EBC, so I have no need for bleed valves or whatnot until I buy something better.

hehe... or a drivers side only sunroof.

You're between beds? Akeenan, you ****.

Thanks for the link Mr_G, most helpful. Alas, I'm not sure I can afford a set of dials this payday.

If only I was short enough to fit in one... :~(

To be honest, I didn't give a damn about cars until I bought my first one in '98... t'was a 1988 Vitara JX... I did suspension, stereo, and some spotties, but it was just transport... I mean, I always liked watching F1 and Bathhurst, but only really watched for the crashes... kinda like watching the State of Origins between NSW and QLD for the fights. In 2001, I got sick of the Vitara, and wnated something that was more sporty with way more power. I was originally aiming for a VX SS, but the bank refused me... then I went to a family wedding in Perth (lot of rellies there) and my cousin suggested I buy a skyline, because they were the bees knees, blah blah blah. I wasn't convinced, but I decided to look into it. They looked phat, they had the power and the technology and most importantly, the bank would give me the money for one. My Skyline was the first I ever drove.