dineth

Pics: 1. at the wash, (before) 2. after washing 3. with the polish on and then buffed 4. And another 5. With the Extra Gloss protection (wax) on and then buffed back 6. outside after final buff 7. After photo 8. Products used (forgot to put in the scratch x)

Hey All, So after using a lot of different types of Wash/polish/waxes I thought I might give the Autoglym stuff a go. I just first of all like to say that im not really here to say that one brand is better then another, I use all different types, and I thought id post this up as a guide. First of all I washed my car using Autoglym Shampoo at the car wash and then dried the car. The 2nd step was to go around the car looking for minor scratches and imperfections in the paint and tabbing it with Meguires scratch X. letting it dry and then buff it by hand. This also helped get rid of some swirl marks. The 3rd step I missed out on as the closest auto store to me had run out of the meguires clay and lube combo, and while I really wanted to do this, I had to skip it until next time as i couldnt be assed trying to track one down. The 4th step was to use the Autoglym Deep Shine Polish (Its meant to be better for darker cars then their normal resin polish) pretty much lightly coverd the car with this stuff using a micro fiber cloth (one panel at a time) and then buffed it back by hand. (yes my arm is killing me) I was pretty impressed after buffing back the whole car, the panels immideitly seemed more reflective and the little scratches and so on were either gone or becme less visible The 5th step was to put on the Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection (wax). This was a like a clear liquid that your meant to just dab onto a clean cloth and then dab onto the paint without rubbing it in. This liquid started to dry into like a thin film after a few mintues and according to the directions I had to let it dry for around 30-60 mins. I then buffed it all back by hand once again. Once I had buffed it back and all the wax/smudges was removed. I got a new cloth and polished each panel again with more force. This really brought out the Paint. Verdict: Keeping in mind that my car is a 93 model R33 (so the paint is over 13 years old), I thought that the paint came out really well. The Polish and wax from autoglym was great I found and the best thing about it was that it didn’t leave hardly any white powder which is a pain in the ass when u have a black car cos it always gets in between the paneling. Price wise, its not too bad, $35 something for the polish and $25 something for the gloss protection. The Autoglym car shampoo wasn’t anything special and it didn’t foam as much as say the meguires stuff, however it did clean really well. All feedback welcome. Cheers, Din.

oh im sure the victorian government can afford quite a few of these from the Bracks revenue raising gold mine.

As an industrial designer, I thought id add my 2cents. Its pretty much impossible to design a car that once put into production will come out being 100% perfect. As mentioned, pretty much every car has a niggle or too. So I think its very harsh to have a go at holden for having a few bugs. Belive it or not, most ‘new’ models are actually based on the model before that. They iron out the bugs from that model and do some updating, however once you start changing the chassis, some things that went right with the old model might not necessary be right with the new model, no matte how much money you spend and no matter how much testing you do, you cant beat a real world test and often problems come up after a few months of release. I think holden has done the right thing by not masking or trying to cover up anything and trying to fix things up asap. I’ll also add that I don’t work for holden or affiliated with holdens. Another thing to note is that design wise, a lot of people say ‘oh it looks like a BA’ or “they should have been more creative’ you will find that as designers, most of us come up with some pretty radical concepts that the marketing/engineering/fincanance department then make us refine and cut back to something that’s more ‘acceptable’ If every single person who was looking to buy a commodore was a car enthusiast, then we could do some crazy designs that would really stand out, however the reality is most people who would buy a Commodore or a flacon is your everyday guy, family man etc. So the design cues have to be subtle as many people are fairly conservative. The commodore market would be the same as the falcon market so they have to be same yet different. and im sure holden and ford would be under strict guidelines to also have design cues from the past models, so there is only so much they can change. they cant design a completely different looking car becuase its way too much to risk. A new model can make or break a company (Ie Mitsubishi 380) and thousaounds of jobs etc, so they are forced to be concervative. Thats the reality of it all. How many of us complained that the upcomming GTR looks too different to the R34 model? One of my colleges who work for holden made the point that the rear light assembley on the HSV range (or possibly just the GTS) is different to your everyday commodore which hasn’t been done before. To change this one light assembely it takes a couple of million dollars cos that light assemlbely changes the panels that surround it and also will have to change the production line. These are the little things that people don’t always understand. And as with anything, it comes down to one thing and one thing only, money. One billion dollars is actually not that much for a car that holds a lot of the Australian market share. Goin back to the 'looks', its pretty much hit or miss, becuase the general public will love or hate it before they even step inside one, let alone turn the key. When you invest so much money, you have to try and minimise risks and try and understand the market as much as possible and its going to be different from model to model. For example the AU falcon was based on the Ford Taurus (if you get a picture of the 2 cars you will see some very similiar design cues) because the Taurus was a big seller in the states. As ford found out, markets vary from country to country. Performance and engineering wise, you can’t compare a HSV GTS to say a BMW M5, while they might seem similar on paper. Just like you cant compare a 911 turbo to a GTR. While its tempting to compare its completely different cars. You just have to appreciate them for what they are. I’ve never been lucky enough to drive a 911, but I’m guessing it would be a little bit more refined then a GTR, but having said that it also costs about 150K’s more. So for bang for your buck, id take the GTR anyday. It’s the same story with the Commodores, not every has a few spare 240k’s lyring around and if they can get similar performance and practicality (5 seats in this case) from a Australian made car for something that’s 1/3 of the price, then whats wrong with that? Even if there are a few recalls.

what vortext did you try man? There is 2 types the Vortext Regular (95 RON) and also Vortex 98 (obviously 98 RON) and i find that on my R33 gts-t (auto) the car runs the best over all on that. even better then the Shell 100 RON stuff which ive tried a few times. anyways thats my 2cents. PS: i know a lot of people dont change their fuel filters often!!! this will also make a huge difference! goto the local Nissan Dealer and get yourself a Gen nissan one, their not that exepensive! not only will it improve the responsivness of the car it will also improve fuel economy! i change mine every 2nd service! (10,000 kms), i think this is essential as we get shit quality fuel down under!

after trying all the 98+ fuels for a long time now, the best one i always thought was BP Ultimate (although there wasnt a massive diff), However recently i been using Vortex 98 and out of all the fuels, i think personally vortex 98 stands out, even more than the Shell 100 RON fuel. This is just my opinion. Fuel economy wise, well how do u ever measure fuel economy? unless you never gun the thing, and lets face it, not many of us would go through a full tank of fuel without pushing it here and there so its really hard to measure fuel economy.

you have PM

hey bit of dumb question to you SK, is a DFA a piggy back?

hey guys, Looking to buy a R34 Side mount factory cooler, Im sure some of you guys might have one lying around after a FMIC upgrade. Must be in good condition with the ducts and stuff. cheers, Din.

hey all, looking for a S2 auto gear shifter (gear knob) for a R33 (as i have the s1 one at the moment and i prefer the s2 auto shifter as its not as chunky) im sure someone has one of these lying around after doing a manual conversion or something, let me know, Located in Melbourne.

Hey All, Looking to buy a pair of R33 S1 headlights. Must be in excellent condition and with all the brackets. Pref melbourne seller (purely due to the fact that these things tend to break during shipping) but its no biggie. Let me know if anyone has any lying around. Cheers! Din.

i have no idea how much there worth mate! so dont wanna offend by making a offer! they looks weet though!

Currently Considering selling my RJR Rims, as i am looking to get 18's. 17 x 7 Bronze in Colour (looks Awsome on a BLack or Red Skyline) Has Close to Brand New 4 x 225 /45ZR 17 MAxxis Tyres which i cant say enough good things about. Rims are only a few months old and not a single scratch. Asking price: $1400 with the tyres Tyres were $200 each. Located In Melbourne

Hey all, Im in the market for a Pair of or The drivers side bucket/bride type seat for a R33. Prefer colours to be either Red, Black or Gray. Must have Rails to suite R33. plz reply if anyone has any up for sale! cheers!

Surely someone has one of these lying around?

Hey all, Looking for a Split Dump and front pipe (pref one of them all in one units) either in mild steel or Stainless (even better) not fussed though, in good condition that wll bolt straight onto a Stock R33 turbo. If anyone has one lying around plz msg me. IM located in Vic, but i dont mind if ur from interstate as long as you can organise shipping which i will pay for. Thanks for looking. Din.

I guess it all comes down to personal experinces and opinions, personally my car has run exceptionaly well with turbolight. Just because a oil is resonably priced (and lets face it a lot of the performance oils are marked up) doesnt make it a 'average oil' IMHO. If anything its a good buy specially when you change your oil every 5K's. A quality semi syn is a much better buy than a cheapo fully syn. Its not always clear cut as "aw its 100% syn so it must be better then a semi syn oil" (of course 300v is not a cheapo fully syn - so not having a go at you Beer baron) The Semi Syn vs Fully Syn argument has been done to death on here and both have good for's and against reasons, but have yet to see a significant reason to use one over the other. Again, it comes down to what people have tried and what they belive makes their car run the best on. Two of the more significant things to consider are: 1, how often you change you oil and 2, what sort of set up your car is (eg daily driver, or track car). So its hard to say one oil is better then another, it all depends on what your cause is. I personaly cant justify paying $80-90 every 2-3 months for racing spec oil when i dont use my car on the track, having said that i wouldnt put any cheap oil in my car just to save a few bucks either. So again, this is why i think Turbolight is good in that, its a good performing oil at a good price. Beefy: i think a 5W/40 might be a little too thin for a engine thats done over 120 clicks, again IMHO.

I USE Motul Turbolight 4100. Have used many oils before and Motul is by far the best. My engine still idle's beautifully and the car runs smoothly as if its still new (its a 93 model) and its done well over 120 clicks now. As long as you put good quality oil and change it every 5000 clicks, it should be running like new. RB's are bullet proof if you dont do stupid mods. Anyways Motul Oil is my choice Unless the engine is heavily modded and used as a Track car i cant understand why you would use any other oil! and besides, its French hehe.

Na man the cars auto so i just got a stock B/V! cheers for the reply though. I should Prob also add that the car is: 1993 R33 GTS-T Auto. Engine Mods: K&N air filter, Apexi N1 catback exhuast and Boosted to 10 PSI through a Turbo Smart Bleed valve.

Hey guys, I just got my water pump and timming belt and fan belt replaced, and everything seems fine and much smoother then before, how ever when i slightly rev the car and let go of the thorttle, the car makes a weird flutter like sound. I do have a k&N Pod filter and its pretty loud, but this sound is nothing i've heard before. and the thing is i cant see how the sound would be linked with any of the repalcement parts. Its ahrd to tell if the sound comes from the Pod (cos its pretty distinctive) or the engine. If its the pod, im fine but if its from the engine i might be a bit worried. I wonder if anyone have a idea what it maybe? I appreciate that it is next to impossible to guess for you guys without actually hearing it. cheers, Din.

Hey everyone, i was wondering if anyone knew what this noise my car was making is, basically when i turn right (and so far only when I turn right) sometimes my car makes a grinding noise? its really strange and hard to figure out. its pretty loud. My steering fluid is fine and it doesnt happen when i turn left and its not lowerd or anything so im pretty sure nothing is rubbing the body. So wonder what it is? PS: my water pump just went the other day and getting it replaced it in a few days (been driving carefully checking and topping up water levels at all times i wonder if this is connected in anyway?) Cheers, Din.

So does anyone know why Civic compliance Victoria takes 3 Blardy weeks to send a fine? i got done 105 under a bride (yes it was my fault and yes i will cop the fine and yes i shouldnt have been speeding) but 3 weeks to send the fine? Offence date 7th Notice Date: 28 Mar I get letter: 30th Mar Makes me think that these guys do this so they can get u a maximum amount of times b4 you know where a camera is located. thoughts?

Thanks mate, im not from that side so didnt know if they did or still had them. I know where the fixed cameras from the western suburabs are. I dont think any of the ones on the western ring road are working However, theirs some new ones thats working (cos my mates mum got fined 3 times in one day..poor lady) goin towards the city just under the millers rd exit ramps and under the millers rd exit signs going away from the city. so be careful everyone.

Hey guys, silly question does anyone know for sure if the Eastern Freeway, Middleborough Rd overpass speed cameras are working or not? ive heard mixed reports. I think i was doing 110 udner them the other day and is a bit paranoid. Cheers, Disclaimer: Speeding is bad and people shouldnt speed. Plus you could get a really bad batch made with dodgy home made checmicals.

its on a slight angle, it sits pretty nice and tight and dont hang low and you wont have any scraping issues unless your car is dumped to the max. Dont know if these pics would help.