Skylineusa

So, are they going to be doing the T4? Or did they not answer the question? I sure hope so.

Is that a G30?

Sorry Lithium, you are correct. I should have gone into a little more detail. I was thinking for quick spool, which I understand by your reply, and looking at the map, would not be a good marriage. It looks like I will wait for the 770s to come out, and go that route. Hypertune makes twin manifolds for the G25s, if anyone is going that route. My car is more street than track, so I really do not need that much power.

This page is gold with great information. Thank you guys! Would running twin 550 be a worthwhile combo?

Gotcha! Thanks!

I was informed that someone on here has done this. I used the search function, but could not find it. Can you guys point me in the right direction? Cheers, Tony

Perfect, cheers mate.

Thanks, That was the info I needed.

I have looked at old threads, but I could not find the answer. Cheers, Tony

I will be using a 1.2 metal head gasket. I am not sure what the CC is of the head, that is why I ask. Cheers, Tony

Here are the stock cam specs from an R33 GTR, the R32 should be very similar. Intake: 240 duration @ 8.58mm lift. Exhaust: 236 duration @ 8.28mm lift I cannot find anything on the timing events, if any of you have them post them up. __________________

I found some good rules for setting up a cam; Advancing the cam gear opens a valve earlier, and closes it sooner... retarding the cam gear, opens the valve later, and closes it later... since all you've done is moved a fixed event. Advancing Intake and Exhaust : This will provide the car with more bottom end power, and will decrease top end. Advancing both cam gears will move overlap earlier. Retarding Intake and Exhaust : This will increase the cars top end, but will decrease low end. Retarding both cam gears will move the overlap later and but will not change the amount of overlap. Advance Exhaust Only : This will help the cars top end, and it reduces overlap. Retard Exhaust only : This will help the cars mid range power, very useful for cars with big turbos / big cams. By increasing overlap, It decreases lag significantly. Doing this will bring the boost on all at once. Advance Intake only : This will increase overlap and helps the cars bottom end and mid range power. This mod will bring the turbo on all at once. The lift has a dramatic effect on low R.P.M. performance, but has a lesser effect at higher R.P.M.s. Duration has the opposite effect of lift. The longer the duration, the more the R.P.M. horsepower will be boosted, but it is at the expense of lower R.P.M. horsepower. As we all know, it's a bunch of trade offs. What one tuner might think is a good trade off, another will think its a bad trade off. That is when the debates will start.

Denso O2 Sensor Oxygen Ford E F PART NUMBER 234-4070? I was told that all the Ford E F series will work, but I wanted to make sure. Cheers, Tony

Oh, that explains that. Cool, thanks. My Circuit board has FC-BOX-01-00 © SR 2001 on it

The inside of my box looks exactly like that, but totally different.

You guys wont believe this, but the chips inside of my box have had they part numbers erased on them, so I don't think this would be much help.

I have an FC Box. If you guys want I can post some pics of it. It has a serial port next to where the commander plugs into.

I was referring to the lobe position themselves. That is a good point on the CAS. Thanks guys

Alpine 7878 JL Audio 500 JL Audio 300/2 JL Audio 300/2 JL Audio 300/2 Nakamichi 300 watt amp 2 12" Boston Acoustics Comp 2 sets 6 1/2" Boston Acoustic Pro Series Components 1 set 6 1/2" Oz Audio Components 1 set 4 1/2" Boston Acoustic Pro Series Components It sounds pretty good.

Can the intake and exhaust cams be swapped with each other? I read a post a while back on another board that said it could be done, but have never heard anyone else talk about it. Cheers, Tony

I thought the R34s diff was a 3.54?

Here is mine.

Sorry to hear about your set backs. I might just be the same boat as you here in a few months. If we start bailing water now, we just might make it:) I hope to have mine up and running before the summer is over. I'll post my results for you guys.

To me when it comes down to who is the fastest in the 1/4, its who has the deepest pockets. My pockets are kind of shallow, so when I take a hit off of the "Go Fast Crack Pipe" a have to look at it a little differently. I want power for a street car, power that will be there without having to rev it to the moon. 1st thing is increase comp, that has and always will be the easiest way to increase power, of course you have to look at the problems of detonation, but if you are only boosting to 1.1-1.2 and using a higher octane fuel, with a good tune. I see no issue. Second is get a turbo that suits your engine. The 2.6 is a fairly small engine, yes it can rev very high, but that induces other issues of longevity. I really cannot see me revving past 7500, ever. Any more than that you are running a risk of something letting go. I know the 2530 has been a proven turbo for the RB26, but I think it might push too much volume for the application that I am think about, plus the from the limited info that I have been able to read about the GT-SS will spool a little faster, plus with the slight increase of compression it should be at full spool pretty early in the rpm band.

I read a thread from a few months ago about installing your GT-SSs, but I cannot find any info after the installation. Were they installed? If so, could you give me a link to what you think of them. I just bought a D- Jetro with all the trimmings, now I am trying to decide if I want to go with GT-SS, 2510, or the 2530s. I would like a quicker power band than stock, so I was thinking of going to a 9:1 with the GT-SS. I hate lag. Thanks for any info you could give me.