caminperth

I know - it was news to me too. I found the details on it in the R34 manual. I'm thinking I could do away with the whole thing. I think I'll probably have the odd stalling problem you're talking about as the R33 ECU won't control it as the R34 one would (if that makes sense?). From what you've said I'm sure I can live with it. Yup, R33 ECU and R34 CAS sensor so should be ok. Think it was just a long day yesterday and I couldn't get my head around it. I've checked on swapping the valves over and they're different arrangements unfortunately so that's not an option. Will wire up the AAC valve with a generic plug and see how it runs.

Dave - thanks for the reply.. After thinking a bit more about the CAS wiring, I've realised that by changing it at the plug I have actually kept the shielding on the correct wires as it's the sensor that changes. So I've changed the wiring to suit the ECU if that makes sense? Anyway, my bad. The R33 VVT Solenoid will fit into the R34 engine, same thread and seal, but the holes and mechanism at the end is different. Looks like the R34 VVT requires more oil to operate. I'll take some photos tonight and post to show what I'm talking about. The canister purge solenoid connects up to the charcol canister near the airbox. I'm just not sure if I need this canister or the purge solenoid. I thought the AAC solenoid helped control idle with the ac and power steering. I should be able to change this plug over to a generic one to keep it working. Point 5 is referring to the valve under the plenum, just above the oil filter. The thing is the R34 engine doesn't have this valve or piping for it. I was going to try to transfer the piping from the R33, but there is nowhere on the R34 engine to plug it in. So I'm still trying to find out about the charcol canister. I wonder what happens with the forward facing plenums and the AAC and canister purge solenoids? Do they get ditched or retained on the new manifold?

Thread updated - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...?t=71705&page=2 Any help would be great. Thanks, Cam

Update.. Have got the Neo fitted and am doing the final plumbing up. I have however hit a few problems and would love it if anyone knows the answers to any of these questions/problems.. 1. After checking the CAS sensors they are NOT interchangeable. They have a different key and are wired differently. I have re-wired it tonight, but noticed that two of the wires were shielded and two were not. Now that I have cut and re-soldered the wiring the two wires that were originally shielded are now not. Will this make a difference to what the ECU see's? Will I have to change it back and re-wire it at the ECU end rather than the CAS end? 2. The R33 VVT plug does not fit the R34 VVT solenoid. I pulled both out of the engines and found that they looked slightly different - maybe thats where the better VVT control comes from? I'm guessing I can't change them over so need to get a need plug? 3. The canister purge solenoid plug is different. Do I actually need this plugged in at all? Do people with forward facing plenums get rid of this item? 4. The AAC solenoid plugs are different. What does this solenoid do exactly? Again, do I need this? 5. The R33 loom has a sensor plug near the oil filter that hooks up to some sort of diaphram valve and some coolant piping to the intake plenum. The R34 engine does not have this piping or valve. Again, do I need this to be plugged in? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I plan to do a massive "how to" post to stop these questions being left unanswered once this thing is running.

Any of these pumps still available? Also - the link to the test data isn't working. What pressure can they flow 255l/hr at? Cheers, Cam

Is this a typo or are they too small for R33 GTS-T's?

Dave Thanks for the info. I'll pull the Neo CAS tonight and check the key on it. They are the same plug so I was just going to plug it in and see if it worked first. If the wiring is different then wouldn't the spark just occur at the wrong time so it wouldn't run? I wasn't aware of the difference in VVT. Bugger. Will have to see what happens with the R33 control on it. I don't have an R34 loom so that's why I'm going with it the way I am. Andrew - I'm going the engine change because the old one was using alot of oil which points to broken ring lands and I couldn't afford a rebuild. Not hoping for big things out of this engine. Got to get it running and then decide either to sell or to mod.

boostED82 - I didn't know they did flywheels as well.. Might check them out whilst I've got mine in bits..

Acid dip perhaps? Not sure what it would do to the cooler though - depends on what material it's made of..

PM me your email address and I will send you a link to the R32 & R33 workshop manuals. Both have the wiring diagrams you require.

Surely somebody on these forums can give up some information about this? Haven't had any luck in the forced induction section either.. maybe I need to ask about BOV's or 'full boost' or something like that..

If you're after a std one I've got one that I can sell you. It's left over from a Neo conversion I'm doing.. from an R34 Rb25det..

Bump.. Can anyone help?

I've posted progress and pics of my Neo conversion into the ol R33 here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=71705 What I'm after is an aligning tool to put my flywheel/clutch assembly onto the Neo. Does anyone know where I could get one? Does anyone have one I could borrow for the 1/2 hour it'll take to bolt the assembly back on? Has anyone had experience in putting on an exhaust cam pulley? I've got a HKS adjustable one on the old engine I want to swap over but am a bit hesistant about just diving into it all - you know, possible bent valves if I screw it up and all.. Also, I've already asked this question in the thread mentioned above, but does anyone know if there is a difference between the R33 and R34 crank angle sensors? They are plugged the same and look like they have the same mounting points. If they are wired differently, should I just swap them over? Thanks in advance, Cam

Have finally gotten the R33 engine and gearbox out and now have the engines side by side in the garage. There are some differences but most things seem the same. Photos of what is discussed below are here: http://members.iinet.net.au/~nunn/Neo/ Differences I've found are: 1. The throttle bodies are very different. The throttle positions sensors are plugged differently and the Neo has a second butterfly on it for traction control. I solved this by swapping the R33 throttle body over to the Neo. 2. The plug for the idle control valve (I think that's what it is - Round cylinder held in by two philips head screws at the back of the intake plenum) is different between the two. I solved this by swapping the R33 valve over to the Neo. 3. Vaccum hosing at the back of the Neo plenum is alot more complex than the R33. Differences I've heard are: 1. The injectors are different sizes - to be solved by using an AFC. 2. The crank angle sensor is wired differently - Does anyone know if this is true? It looks like I can swap them over, does anyone know if this is the case? Otherwise they are plugged the same so will plug in directly and should work if wired the same. I am swapping over an exhaust cam pulley this week so will post photos once I've taken the cas off. Aside from what's mentioned above, everything looks like it'll plug straight back in. I've even been able to save draining the AC and power steering pumps by just unbolting the units and moving them to the side. They will bolt straight up to the Neo when it's in place. If anyone has knowledge about the differences between the R33 and R34 crank angle sensors and if they are the same or can be swapped I'd really appreciate the input.

Only sometimes?!?!?

Word.. for some reason people in Perth can't handle the fact that someone might want to go a bit faster than they are on a freeway. I challenge any right hand lane hog to go drive in the UK or Europe for a while and see how long it takes before either a cop fines them for obstructing traffic or someone rams them off the road... (guess who's just witnessed crappy Perth driving after a month driving round the UK:D) /rant

I'd say you have two separate problems. Stalling like this on std BOV sounds like something is leaking somewhere. Check all piping, hoses ect. I've got the same speedo problem, a bang on the dash seems to sort it and once it's been working for a while it doesn't drop out anymore. I've had the cluster out for closer inspection and couldn't find anything obvious, but if banging the dash fixes it, there must be a loose wire there somewhere. If anyone finds what causes the speedo problem, please post!

Make sure you really really dry everything out. Otherwise even a bit of moisture can form condensation on the coil packs and make them malfunction. Did this once on my old RB30. Had to stop every 2km to dry out the distributor for ages!

I've seen their customer service in action... just don't disagree with them or the bloke from wheelsworld (same shop) and you'll be fine..

Why do we need to get used to it? After all - they are acting on our behalf. That's what we've voted them in for. Surely we should be able to get it changed? f*kin f*kers!!!

f*kin stupid F*kers... hate them! hate them! HATE THEM!

Would love to know this too. I'm wanting to have a go at building a hybrid and I want to find out where to get a VG30 turbine housing...

Got some more info on the turbo? pics?

yup