Swiper the Fox
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Posts posted by Swiper the Fox
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I don't know what issues you two have between eachother nor do I care but I do want to clear up the original head gasket failed due to the head stud between 4 & 5 pulling from the block. The fellow on the Nitto stand, Andrew I think it was, was most helpful in tracking down our requirement.
So what are you on about champ?
Stevo has lately enjoyed putting the slipper into Nitto...I said he should take the oportunity to visit the Nitto stand as Andrew and Jim would have been keen to discuss any issues he may have had/seen with the product line. Steve-o then infoms me he was not attending Superlap...but actually does go on both days and doesn't bother to take the initiative to possibly further his knowledge.
bit strange?
was good to see the Berry car using the Nitto h/g as i have been most impressed with the quality of the product and most particular their headgaskets. I said some time ago on another thread that these h/g's were in my opinion the best money could buy. Paul (Superjet760) had all sorts of issues with his 30/26 blowing headgaskets...since he switched to Nitto they have not has 1 issue.
That is actually what im "on about"
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it was nice of the recovery guys to park the crumpled red Evo where it could be
seen by all.
Poor bugger.
That was Sydneykids son Matt who gave the wall a tap.
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Had a great day...met some nice people and sold 5K worth of bits out of my boot in the carpark....had a good laugh with ABM and Daz.
lol at N1GTR...went both days but steered clear of the Nitto stand. Its quite ironic your hero car required a Nitto part after a Jap brand name bit failed to do the job.
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so do we know if any rb30 rods can come with pressure fed wrist pins? i only ask cause of a very tough 26 i seen stripped, was drysumped and the little ends were all f**ked. one had punched the bronze out of the rod and had hammerd the piston pin hole in the piston to the point bits of piston were squashed out like the little end..
to much tune-up there mate.
hi again...like ships in the night
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im racing in the tràck championship on the 30th. Is the day before my licence expires so it will be the farewell meet for me and the car.
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perfetc, thanks swiper.
so how do you apply the block filler personally? do you take the welsh plugs out, or have a measured amout of filler and pour it through the top of the water outlets?
thanks gain
simon
take the plugs out so you can monitor whats going on...leave the front one thats lower near the thermostat in. Mix up hardblock...using a funnel and some mig wire carefully pour small amounts at a time down the water jacket holes. You will have to use the wire to help it through the funnel and also work it around outside of the bores as it doesn't flow very well. Make sure block is nice and level and leave for a few days till nice and hard.
there is a couple of other little things i also do that are not particularly necessary but thats enough info to get the job done.
practice on another block is a good idea...especially one that has punched a rod out through the bottom that will only end up as scrap.
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Guilt-toy is the v88 a plugin? if not do i need the v88 or will the v44 be fine?
V44 will be fine for a road car...same as we run in our street/circuit gtr with over 450awkw.
The only advantage of running a V88 is its direct fire ignition and the fact you have heaps of inputs and outputs for control/sensors etc.
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spewing about Mark and Russ
Just spoke to Dave from the team...Marks headgasket is being replaced with a Nitto item big thanks to Andrew McIntosh from Nitto for helping the guys out and Russell's engine should not be too far away.
all good...sometimes trouble like this is a good omen...i know our car has always performed well when its made us work for it.
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Apparently Mark has done a head gasket (which is being fixed now) and Russ broke his engine in half.
Neither of them will run today. But the head gasket is being fixed now and a new engine for Russ is on its way down from Brisbane. Sounds like a long night ahead for them!
i have a couple of short engines ready on stands here in Newcastle...as well as two complete race heads if they are needed.
Nitto head gaskets as well...they certainly cured Superjet760's headgasket issues.
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I too am looking into this after reading an article in HPI. A member on SAU "GTS-t VSPEC" from the WA Section has done it, I have gotten in contact with him via pm, here is a bit of info he has supplied;
Mind you, I was asking about stroking the RB25 into a RB27, not sure this info applies to the NEO, as I was reading somewhere recently that there is something smaller on the head...however don't quote me on that.
Yes...as stated above the chambers are smaller...hence the static comp. increases as an engines chamber cc decreases.
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Christ! 1.31.1 is moving! Lets see how much they have left in them. Any news on the pace of the RX7s?
thats absolutely stonking from the Sierra x 2 boys...Ive been confident they were going to go quick...so much in fact that i requested a Mitsubishi Lancer for my hire car this weekend.
a 1.31.1 is almost quicker than Benm's GTR 1/4 mile time next door.
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oh, another question, how would a block / girdle brace compare to half block fill?
im very scared about filling up half the block and doing it wrong and ending up overheating every race meating
Simon...you only do up to the bottom of the welsh plugs...nowhere near half fill. Read what i have already written previously. Harmonic vibration and the added stresses of the front diff twisting them is what cracks the blocks....unless you can fit a brace that is stronger than the bracing and ribbing already built into an RB26 block then i really doubt how effective it could be.
Some of the circuit racers have commented that they have lower logged temps after grouting. When you really think about how a thermostat controlled cooling system works it actually makes sense.It may have you running a few degrees cooler mate.
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hi guys, its time to come to rebuild the motor.
the path i am going is to rebuild the 25 block with 26 internals (crank/rods/pistons - i manage to score the bottom end for real cheap so its a cheap way to stroke it & be stronger at the same time)
now i need info from ppl who has done this and what complications they came across if any or any help/tips that they can provide.
I've searched on sau, skyline owners & google and have seen a few ppl do it with success but there were really no technical answers, just yes it will fit but like anything there is always a hurdle to jump over.
the head ill be using will be a R34 RB25 Neo which should work fine. Would the pistons clear the valves & not smash them?
RB25 stroke: 71.7mm
RB26 stroke: 73.7mm
difference in stroke is 2mm so would i assume that by adding 2mm thicker headgasket will make things clear or am i wrong?
parts list include
R33 GTR crank
R33 GTR rods with arp bolts
ACL 86.5mm pistons
cometic head gasket (not sure on size?)
any help much appreciated.
i would assume you are thinking about using GTS-t pistons?...the easy way is to just use RB26 pistons as the pin height is correct but you will have to run a thicker than std head gasket as the NEO chambers are smaller. Should be able to work out the static comp on paper and you will be able to see the difference each size head gasket makes.
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Right...i installed the 1st ever Vi-pec plug-in in an R34 GTR...found 2 issues that Vi-pec overlooked.
The Air-con clutch is always on and drains the battery....needs a relay installed in the circuit.
The injector duty on the MFD did'nt work.
Other than that the ECU ran the car so smoothly...actually better than the std ecu!
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All reciprocating engine internals should be balanced before assembly.
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Spend money with providers that actually own a network...not just bludge of others.
There is only Telstra and Optus that have bothered to instal a cable to your house and create real jobs for people to install and maintain it.
Being faithful to these providers will keep australians employed.
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Yeah same thing happened up here...mobil warners bay. Manager even admitted that the guy filled the tank with regular unleaded. My next question was why he was still advertising and selling it as premium.
It was in Dave's car, manager refunded him and also invited him back for a full tank of fuel when the Synergy 8000 returned.
He left driveway got to the top of the hill and.....ping ping ping !!!
Dave is a bit of a pushover...i may have not been so understanding.
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Racepace...hands down, end of story, close and lock please mods.
Personally had a drive in a 440+ KW at the treads R33 GTR that sounded and idled like a brand new stocker.
I know of one for sale too...
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Hey people, just need some anwsers, ive done a search and didnt find what i was after..
RWD rb26
Can you use a rb30e engine sump on the rb26 engine ? im aware it will foul on the rb26 oil pick up, can i either modify this? or use a rb25 or rb30 oil pick up ? ( i have a spare sump+pickup etc )
Will the sump hold enough oil? motor will be fairly standard, full exhaust, 28/60 turbos, extra boost .
Thanks in advance
What oil pump will you be using?...id say use a modded GTR sump would be the best bet...RB30 single cam sumps were designed for lower reving engines that required a lot less oil per cycle needed to effectively lubricate the single cam head. At high revs it may struggle...you only will need for it to not be up to the task once for you to question why you didn't do it properly from the outset.
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ill have 2 Mickey Thompson Street drag radials up for grabs next week.
50% tread...$150 ea...cost almost $400ea new
have to get them freighted from Sydney though
then you too can rip skids like this...
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Good thinking will check on FAST tonight.
Cheers Paul as well, I sent you a PM too the other day.
sorry...
MoTeC...only for the logging.
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R32 & R33 use the same shafts..
Nissan FAST part number for:
R32 RH front drive shaft - 39100-23U00.
R33 RH front drive shaft - 39100-23U00.
I cant check the active diff shafts as i dont have fast on the mac.
same shafts but different 1/2 shafts. Best GTR 1/2 shaft/diff set-up is 93-94 R32 or R33 non v-spec. thicker 1/2 shafts and larger hemisphere.
people cannot believe my drag car is still running the same stuff that was bolted in by Mr Datsun back in 93.
Transfer Case / Front Diff Knock
in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Posted
the drivers side axle has popped out of the diff...just pop it back in with a long screwdriver or pry bar.