Swiper the Fox
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Posts posted by Swiper the Fox
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Thanks Duncan. I'll shoot him a pm and go from there.
you can send it to me as Paul will be seeing me next week.
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Thanks.
So with an R32 head with r34 cams I would use a 34 CAS?
you can remove the pin out of the r32 cas shaft and fit the r34 drive...no wires to mess with.
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Hi,
Just a quick question.
Are the RB26 camshafts interchangeable between the R32-R33 and R34 models?
yes but with 34's you have to use the r32 33 cas spline when fitting the earlier cams. You can just use the earlier CAS and swap the cylinder and sync wire over when re-wiring the plug.
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Paul - I wasnt just directing my comments to you, but in general.
The crank in the pics is one of the trial 95mm stroke cranks I have - its actually quite easy to install just not a direct plug and play.
The tunneling boring issue was done by someone I dont usually use - as your aware not alot of places offer that service so I had to go to someone else.
The guys I use for all my other machining are slow but extremely pedantic and it would take alot for me to change.
Where are you situated ? as I am in Qld ?
As soon as I have this trial engine assembled and running etc, and Im happy with the install and worked out all the bugs, both cranks will be produced available in full counter weight.
At present Im still confident the 95mm, 8 counterweight cranks I have will work fine for what they were designed for.
OK things are all good from both ends then...sweet.
Im in the exact same position as you in regards to machine shop...my guys are craftsmen but they have a slow and steady approach...gets a bit frustrating sometimes but better than having to send stuff back due to rough tolerances...if its not exact it doesn't leave their shop. I have to send tunnel bore jobs to Sydney (we are in Newcastle) as their is little demand for the work up here to justify the huge outlay for quality machinery to perform it correctly (im actually off to sydney tomm to personally oversee an N1 block be fixed).
Are the cranks finished here in Australia? and where is the parent material sourced from?
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Hi guys,
I don't get on here much anymore. Someone informed me I should make an appearance on this thread.
These forums are a brilliant source of information, a wealth of knowledge and a great place to express your interest in all things automotive , but they also harbour a lot of misinformation, accusations and innuendos.
So if you have any queries about this topic just email me direct, its easier.
Now there has been a big delay with the first trial engine due to incorporating a trial billet main cap design at the same time. Will post pics later today.
These caps require tunnelling boring and the machine shop that did it for me the 1st time made the tunnel a couple thou too big, so it had too go back and be modified. This all has taken a lot longer than expected.
Anyway I have only just received the block back last week so assembly will start soon with the prototype crank etc.
In the process of designing this setup I have decided to make 2 kits available – one will be 95mm and the other will be 93 mm. As the 95 mm stroker does require some block clearancing and isn't a straight drop in kit . The 93mm crank is going to be full counter weight and will be an easier install.
Both cranks will be available by them selves or in a complete kit with rods and pistons to suit.
These things take time and I am more anxious than you guys to get this finalised as there are numerous other cranks I have in mind to stroke.
I know my pricing will be extremely competitive so hang in there if your interested.
Brad
no accusations and innuendo Brad...just guessing what may have been happening as im quite aware of what you are trying to achieve and the pitfall associated with it. Good to see you back with some news for interested parties after a couple of months absent...so the crank you have pictured on your website is not actually the correct design as the picture is of an eight counterweight item...its a little confusing.
Couple of thou out and two months plus to rectify...id sack your machinist as thats pretty crook. If you want to use a decent one PM and ill give you some info on who you could use.
Personally id ditch the 95mm item and put all your effort into the 93mm one as the 95mm is going to be a cluster fu(k to get right.
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id say they are still trying to work out why the main caps keep fretting.
good luck.
Another option will be available in 4 weeks from another company that are full counterweight (12) instead of 8. Sweedish highest quality 4340 billet steel forged, finished and balanced in the US.
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Australia always used to (and probably still does) get the crappy models with the worst specs.
Toyota Australia were looking to release the Mark V Chaser here. but the boffins at HQ decided the Avalon was a better option.
retards!!
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Try a block of wood behind it and hit that with a hammer alternating from either side...the balancer might be a throw away anyway so if it damages it its no big deal.
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so how exactly do you grout fill an engine or should my question be where can you buy proper grout fill for engines from?
I buy my Hardblok from Rocket. Probably cheaper for you to drop the block off at your local engine shop and get them to do it.
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I fitted some Nitto rods in a 30 last week and they definately look strong. Slightly heavier than the Argos though. The argos use a groove in the side to allow some oil to get thrown in the direction of the piston and the Pauter rods use 2 grooves in the side for the same thing but they can also be ordered with a oil hole right thru the rod to the pin. I personally think the Nitto rods are one of the best on the market and would recommend them to anyone building a tough rb30. The little end on these is undersized so they can be honed to suit the pin being used unlike some rods on the market that are to loose right from the word go.
Smiley was building engines while most on here were still getting lunch from their mothers tit and seen more rods than the average punter...looks like he's impressed too.
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Ive filled them with harblok to the top of the lower welsh plugs (about 30mm from the bottom) without any over heating problems. Ive just done another to 15mm from the top which also has darton sleeves but thats a drag only car on meth.
I do them all as a matter of course now. Some of the circuit racers have commented that they have lower logged temps after grouting. When you really think about how a thermostat controlled cooling system works it actually makes sense.
If i did my own engine block i would have raced at Compak Attak as where the block split on the friday before the event was at the bottom of the water jacket. So from now on they all get grouted.
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How do the nitto rods compare to argos? quality and price wise?
about the same with both...although the Nitto's feature 7/16 rod bolts insted of the Argo's 3/8 bolts...the finish on the Nitto's is incredible. They also have the added bonus of having a built in piston oil squirter...very clever. The Nitto's are slightly more expensive as i get a good discount at Argo, but im happy to pay a bit more for Nitto. I have a mate who builds engines for Triple 8 racing who was an avid argo fan in the past but was highly impressed with the new Nitto items...if anyone knows what they are looking at its him.
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how much for just the complete head i.e. with cams and springs?
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yes Nitto I beams only.
7mm from main bearings back to feed gallery.
and yes up to bottom of welsh plugs.
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hi,
tried a long search , and read god knows how many posts trying to find informations.
so, my question is: what modifcations do people do to rb30 blocks internally? i know in the rb26 you drill out the oil returns abit mone, no idea how much, and same as rb30 polish the inside of block to relieve stress and take all casting marks out. what else do people do?
how much do you drill the oil returns out to ?
do you also drill the main bearing oil outlets bigger¿
any modifications to the water ways?
and i saw on some other forum how they modified the block for oil jects, as i think rb26 ones wont fit and there is too little material to use banjo bolts.
im going to be building a 800bhp dry sumped track car with rb30, and want to keep it as reliable as possible (if this is possible
)thanks again
simon
Deburr, oil drains out to 8mm, oil feeds out to 7mm, grout to bottom of welsh plugs and use Nitto RB30 rods as they have an oil jet built into them that jets oil to the underside of piston using a feed off the big end bearing.
hope that answers your questions Simon...hows the Vi-PEC?
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hahahahaha, you can't write this stuff.
this is an awesome car, what a ridiculous list of awards!! gl with the sale mate, must be difficult to sell this, what u getting next just out of interest? guessing short of a good ferrari its not as fast
E46 Msport BMW is what Stacey has ordered...ill have to settle for the VL Berlina...lol.
I have some idea's around a 3/4 chassis Silvia with a 3.2ltr Nitto RB stroker that drinks methanol and snorts nitrous. I have most of the parts needed to build it in the shed...including the Silvia.
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what can you put together for a VL Berlina turbo that will bolt on...lines mani etc.
mint car that needs to look absolutely unmodified.
pm or post here.
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Thanks mate but need T4 flange to suit Garrett GT35R, Thanks anyway
I have everything you require...Stainless high mount manifold, Tial 45mm wastegate, Plazmaman Plenum and throttle body.
Make me a reasonable offer on the package and it will head to Capalaba.
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They came off an immac silver 32 gtr....u know about those all too well
That should justify the freight costs in itself!!
100 inc freight...thats all they are worth for me. Ill give you two Edith Cowan's and you can give me two calipers.
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100 for calipers eh? include freight and i may take them
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yeah wood is the go try not to use anything thats hardened just in case it slips and centre punches something useful
the handle of the hammer i mentioned looks like a crocodile has been munching on it...lol
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If no rattle gun, take the sump off and use rag covered spanner or such to wedge between the crank and block. (use a counterweight)
ahh yes...before i had a rattler i used the wooden handle of an engineers hammer to wedge the counterweight.
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I'd rather not divulge that information at this early stage.. I will keep everyone posted on future events
and pending on the outcome I'll reveal the builders name, I think this is both in his and my best interests
Nice one Dave...
Until it can be acertained what has caused the failure nothing should be assumed...i.e. it may be something that only destructive testing would have shown up. This is something engine builders cannot undertake with products...thats why i insist that guys only use certain brands/items im confident is going to be up to the task. Even big $$ Jap stuff gets slightly modified when im doing a big horsepower set-up so im completely confident of its ability to handle the high stresses they have to tolerate. A lot of parts are taken out of the box and simply bolted in asuming they are perfect ...thats why a lot of these builds fail early.
I have recieved a lot in my 14 odd years of Skyline ownership...there are some very selfless people who give a lot. Im now in a position to help...thats why ive put my hand up to assist.
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*Might* get access to one of those - would it be enough by itself to just crack the bolt straight off? I.e. does an air-powered tool deliver enough force to just break the bolt without needing to secure the other end etc?
yep...did it twice yesterday with RB26 engines...they were 350ft/lb tensioned. I do have a good rattle gun though but most reasonable quality ones should be enough for a 25.
)
Rb30 Whorethread
in Engines & Forced Induction
Posted · Edited by Swiper the Fox
A VL up your way ran 9.95 with one...mad turbo for the DiRTy30.
My genuine A8 block has had all the Red R Racing treatment...bigger main studs, bigger head studs, bigger bearing feeds, bigger oil drains, bigger bores...
Just waiting for the Nitto forged billet full 12 counterweight knife edged i beam custom piston 3.2 litre stroker kit to arrive.
1500hp anyone?