Swiper the Fox

lol... these numbers don't include my results to make it a bit fairer for the Garrett's I would have never achieved the results with my car if i was using the cheap generic Garrett items.

bugger...i was going to say that.

Thats a better deal than i get and Mark sponsors my racecar

Id go the Link...i had an Autronic SM4 in my GTR and it didn't impress. I upgraded to a Vi-PEC V88 which is basicly what Link releases as the G4 Storm. Its a great product and if your car is a street car the driveability is second to none. My GTR is a drag car that is still road registered but before the V88 was a pig to drive on the road...now i enjoy cruising...it runs like a dream.

Thats like comparing the taste of chocolate and dogshit. Link G4 if in NZ. Who is your tuner? What does he/she use?

Walk510 expected me to come in here and say the Vi-PEC V88 is better than the Haltech...Thats what he was going on about Parag0n. I think he may have mentioned Vi-PEC in as many threads as i have now...lol I have absolutely no first hand experience in the new Haltech's so unlike other internet guru's i cannot comment on them.

I have the complete set-up of our drag car for sale includes...new prices are in brackets to give an idea of the cost of setting up this type of system Blitz 1000cc injectors including plugs. ($1200) Trust blue anodised twin entry fuel rail ($300) SARD fuel pressure regulator ($200) Earls braided lines and fittings ($500) Bosch Motorsport 044 fuel pumps x 2 ($500) Performance Metalcraft surge tank with perspex enclosure ($650) http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/General...trsurgetank.jpg Electrical system including all wiring, fuse holders and relays ($50) $3400 worth of top line equipment that supports over 1000 engine horsepower on our drag car being a drag car that is only raced at a few meetings a year and sees minimal road use this gear is in perfect order and condition. it will not be available till after Jamboree drag event at the end of next month but will take deposit prior to secure purchase. save $1000 and have a kit with all lines, fittings and electrical ready to bolt on. $2400

http://www.vi-pec.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=216

in the plenum or inlet piping. it is wired to to one of the temp. inputs. In a GTR it uses the factory sensor but cars like a gts-t that dont have an inlet temp sensor you have to use the sensor provided with the ECU.

ill take the rocker covers and cam cover...please pm your banking details please

yes...there is nothing fragile about stock RB26 conrods. Keep them and if you feel the need change the rod bolts to ARP items.

lol

what i was trying to say is if the Nismo injector has denso part number xxxxxxx on it and the HKS one has the same denso part number then they are the same injector irrespective of the box they come in. HKS part number would be different to the Denso part number due to each company using their own unique cataloging system. Are they light blue? if so they are the same injector as the one SARD markets as their 700cc top feed items. These are the same injector as the GReddy 720cc units. The reason each company lists them with different flow rates is due to slight differences in each companies recommended base pressure.

forget the power levels guys...its torque that eats injector duty. example...my old engine with 700cc jobbies could muster 450+ with headroom...new set-up with more torque had them maxed out at 450. The difference between the two engines was the completely different torque curve, one looked like a mountain peak...the other was flat and wide. running indy blues at a reasonable duty cycle is a lot more sensible than trying to push the 1000's by upping the base on them.

please pm

looks like it would foul on the steering link if it was in the 'usual' position. Ive seen EVO drag cars with the turbo mounted behind a shield in the passengers footwell...so i dont see it causing an issue.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fu...wh-t279178.html oh yes...ken this thread is gold...well done.

guys read above...Nick was not kidding...no chat.

port job ?? who is responsible for that...?? it still has casting marks in it.

rape it till it breaks....lol on a serious note... try squirting a bit of oil in the bore and re-doing the comp test...may be a valve not seating properly.

Daz is a nice fella...not too bad on the eye either. ABM i use Hi Octane for my ceramic stuff...they sponsor my racecar so the price is right.

ok penguin ill pat you on the back.

I have a set of bar vents in fibreglass in silver you can have them for free if you like...will stick them in with the 4WD controller. They have been cut back to clear a 160mm intercooler so may not be suitable. I also have a set of Ganador mirrors but they are on the car and i like the look of them so ill keep those.

as i said the brands used in the example were just that...here's a better rule to follow... If the denso part numbers are the same...so are the injectors.