nobby

On my mates obd, Autel unit 3k worth. Looks like a tablet, and does way more than just check and clear etc.

Thanks for that, I have been away for a while since the obd unit was connected. So I can't remember the data , the $3k OBD device my mate owns, he told me it was leaning off. sonicii, on 15 Feb 2016 - 10:50 AM, said:

The pitstop message has been cleared 4 times now & won't go away. Seems to be more than a maintenance related problem, thanks for the input. simply putting it out there to see if anyone else had struck a similar issue, & or had some pointers for possible cause and or tell tale signs to look at. More input the better!. The ecu is leaning the engine off as a result of knock detected.

Ok the LCD popup screen has a message "pitstop" . obd check came up with bank 1, knock sensor. It only has 1 knock sensor so it cant be the knock sensor, given bank 1 only problem!. O2 sensors,, I swapped em sides, fault stayed on bank 1, so they should be ok. The A/F sensors look hard to get at, and possibly need a special spanner?. Anyone ever removed these A/F sensors, How hard ?? Coil packs, manual test procedure looks to be very hit and miss???. And injectors need the plenum removed , last resort job there!!. Anyone have any input, ideas to solve this issue ? Note. O2 = middle of cat converter sensor A/F = above cat converter.

2006 V35 with message on popup screen " pit stop" . A mates new obd scanner hooked it up, he was able to tell me-- Bank 1 knock sensor. Ok- it only has 1 knock sensor for mtr so it can't be that,or it would be reading both banks one would think. So injector/s, or A/F sensor or O2 sensor or coil/s could be the problem!. tried O2 sensor swap and code stayed on bank 1, so they should be ok. Thinking of swapping A/F sensors but they looks very hard to get at, possibly needing special spanner ?. And the injectors need the plenum taken off , f**k what a job to look at them. Manuals idea of checking the coil packs looks a bit hit and miss. Anyone have any other ideas, input to help solve problem??. Note O2 sensor = Number 2 sensors in the middle of cat converter. A/F sensor = number 1 sensor ,above the cat converter.

Why couldn't ya just simply reply!, Hay bro, pop over & see pages 45-47. I only asked for a summary after reading the first 14 pages. It seemed to be looking good, but dragging on & on, its coming in sep then oct then new year with no end in sight, and another 43 pages to go. A simple summary, not the earth, Not much to ask for. youv'e ask for help in the past and will again. where's the problem.

Gee wizz. I'm not new here, Nor lazy. That busy, I Just haven't been on for a long while. I have spent my own personal time to help other sau members who have pm in the past. And bugger me I'm attacked, called lazy by someone ignorant to the facts. Goes to show, sometimes its better to keep your personal opinions to yourself hay. Take it seeing Chris has asked for no further input, case closed and nothing available. Hows that for the long way getting there!!. Thanks Chris

Tony, do I know you? Answere ,NO. Where's the love bro. Don't be lazy." come on play fair" The effort would of been better made simply answering the post , or mind your own business thought these forums were to help one another not see who has the biggest pair. thanks for all your help. oh and by the way I am busy.

Bugger 57 pages! who has the time. Thank you Chris for the time on such a huge effort to please the masses. Chris can you post a summary please. V35 covered. V35 not covered. Software, Versions covered, not covered etc. what labels to look for on the sat nav dvd rom to confirm compatability etc. info spread over 57 pages is just near impossible. Again thanks and Cheers.

Thankyou for the info and link to further info. will tackle it in the AM. cheers

Thanks for the info. just put car on ramps and dropped the oil. so far only 4+L has come out, typical burnt smell. HUmm I'd like to drop alot more if possible. "the good oil" on how to at home please.

Hi, recently purchased 2006 v35 with a 5spd auto. Always do my own oil changes etc,but never owned an auto before. After some advice,tips etc on how best to do the auto trans oil My local Nissan dealer wants $60 for 5 lts, of matic J not bad!. After reading post it seems I need 10.3lts. I plan to drain trans,then remove pan inspect clean and replace. But not sure how much oil I'm going to need on hand. I haven't looked yet, but talking with others it seems there is no refill plug,is this correct?. should I drain etc and refill through dipstick tube?. Any and all advise welcome, you can never not know enough.

Iridium wear better and handle more heat.

Gee, just realized, Owned the GTR for 10 yrs now. must say still a great car to drive.

Still no leak, After it had sat around for a while that was when I noticed it leaked previously, so I recon it's fixed.

The power steer resivour dipstick has a magnetic reed switch in it, the float on dipstick has the magnet, and reed switch is inside the dipstick. Reed switch inside the dipstick can fail, I repaired mine a few yrs back. If your switch has failed. the switch has a inline plug, unplug it, if light goes out then you have found the problem, the switch is faulty Jaycar had a new reed switch for $2 I pulled the wires with gromet intact out of dipstick paying close attention to correct height. took a solder iron to it and replaced reed. easy and cheap fix. solution = light went out. cheers

Reading this I assume that Nissan Japan would be extremely happy to know how one of its dealership is possibly behaving. Nissan Australia and Ford for that matter also. One would think Nissan Australia would know who owns the car now. Its nice your trying to let new owner know about vehicle. Having trouble understanding "this day in age" when no-one seems to give 2 hoots about others. sell off what's broken and presume others won't do the same. What if in-fact they repaired the car!. now since the repair, the recon box hasn't had launch control used on it, it's twisting the truth but a fact all the same. honestly there is a lot of ways of looking at this.

Ok here's what I did to my R32 gtr ABS around 2yrs ago to stop the leak. (my previous posts may revel time frame, to busy to look back) "NO brake cleaning products used on any old rubber seals or o-rings, period" All parts were systematically listed and placed in a tackle type container with container labled for reference prior to reassembly I disassembled Abs as much as possible, through clean with brake clean. I say much as possible as one of the pipes between body upper and lower didn't want to come away from 1 half so what was stuck was left alone. I did alot of looking on internet and from memory viton seal have butal rubber as an componite used in the seals, and I found by chance A brake squeal product had this "butal" in it. All Seals were all washed in warm soapy water, rinsed off & towel dry. Once clean and dry, I layed the seals on a sheet of card board and lightly sprayed 1 side. Then lifted off with a fine wire hook and then 1 at a time flipped over still holding onto o-ring raised on it's edge not laying flat and lightly coated the other side and hung each one up to dry individually. Copper wire strands is what I fashioned small hooks/hanger out of. I used disc brake squeal on old body seal orings, " Not the moving/,valve seals". Lubed all moving seals with a little rubberr grease and reassembled. also lubed brake line connects with rubber grease. and a little thread tape on bleed screw to stop back suction and or leak when bleeding. that was approx 2 yrs ago and no leak still. Any parts that needed a seal surface touched up, I sprayed a bit on a brush and hand painted it on I take no responsibility for anyone else trying some, any or all of my idea on ABS repair. It's your responsibility all the way. Auto notice alerted me to new posts on subject and in the festive season I thought I'd share. Please guys I'm very busy fitting solar system and prob won't find time any time soon to reply to questions. Happy Christmas and safe New Year. Nobby.

x2 on that. It may even look good. but take a magnifier glass to it and you may see a what looks like a crack at solders edge, again this is a poor joint and needs fixing.

Going through the looms in car and removing the wires from plugs 1 at a time and soldering each pins crimp has made a huge difference to my gtr. even unwrapping the ign coils loom and soldering all the crimps in the common circuits has paid off as well. think from memory 6 earths in this loom share 1 ground wire. It's a slow process and the problem is still there but no where as bad. might blip once a day now, not every 12 min's like it used to. And when I did the air con connectors it made a big difference to the way it work. Not claiming a fix as I haven't finished all connections, but feeling confident.

Are you 100% sure the vib is still coming from the shaft now and not say an flat spot or out of round tyre or something or rather.

Is this hardy spicer?. web-site, does heavy vehicle stuff.

Don't take any of this the wrong way. Nissan put a 2 pce drive shaft in for a reason. I also admit, standard seems heavy at that. But why make a super car and handy-cap it with this sort of construction?. Id like to know all about the spicer and their uni's, more info please. I'd suggest rear sub frame, diff , and gearbox miss-align enough to cause or at least contribute to the vib problem. Or I'm simply wrong. Recon someone who builds race cars professionally should knows what the "usual causes" of the vib given what your trying to do. you may simply have to pay for a fix. Good luck I'm keeping a close eye on this may have to do mine sooner or later. Cheers