nobby

Question about tierod link. Are these any good quality wise compared to nissan ones?. Are they easy to replace?. Anything else should be done while rack partly dissasembled?. does anyone know where to get steering componites at a decent price. ie-- ball joints, tierod ends etc.

Spacers are illegal no!. so if you have an accident and get cought with it on you car then good by insurance . If subframe sits offset then wouldn't you have at least 15+mm of play in subframe movement L&R. Handle poorly, wanders etc. try turning corner in direction that should shift frame to opposite side and park before straightining up and check to see if its moved, chances are it will be the same though as it's proberly setteled there. put it under pressure driving and I'd safely bet it's moving around. sounds like time for a bush freshen up, have someone quailfied you trust to take a look at it

Did you put in new clutch, what type, some rattle-vibrate a bit from new. 2nd hand box could also rattle a bit, wear and tear. If a vibration is comming from drivetrain, chances are you'll feel it through stick. You described a "grinding noise" and no one wants to be the bearer of bad news, if you have grinding at idle you have problems, chances are it's more like, at idle gearbox is not under any strain so what is loose is vibrate/rattling around in unloaded condition, wear and tear. generic conditions described above, get someone qualified to check it out for a bit more piece of mind if your still concerned. bit hard to diagnose via chat, chances are one if not all of the above.

Been reading a topic, Jim Berry seems to be the man to rebuild one. Looking for clutch to handle a bit of abuse, nothing serious, easy on the leg and streetable. any thoughts fellers ?

had a problem like this once yrs ago in pulsar 5spd box. it was the bearings the selector shaft travels in, you know the shaft the gear stick moves. bearings were almost worn through there side and allowed the shaft to kick sideways so badly couldn't get into reverse at all and 1st near impossible. split box, replaced bearings, these are slipper type bronzed bearings, reseal box and like near new again. if your lucky that's all it is. it was fairly cheap repair DYI.

After reading 13 pages, 1989 R32 GTR, 310kw atw, with reserve for say >400atw. Street car, the odd fang at the lights and powerslide,nothing serious. Just enjoying my car. WANT reliabilty, good feel and not to heavy?. Lets have some thoughts!

Dowels are there for a reason, if it was a matter of just line it up with bolt holes, then that would be all there was to do. They are for alignment and balance, but most importantly to prevent clucth assembly sheering bolts, turning/moving at all on fly wheel. Bolts are doing a job, they are there for clamp pressure and not shear resistance. Dowels on head and bell housing are for proper alignment, different job.

Yep been there done that on the wifes gq patrol with the penrite, was not happy with the way box felt. The second i change the oil the slave cyl started to let go and caused poor disengagment and i thought it was the oil at first, as you would. So once that was fixed it felt pretty good not spot on but good enough not to change oil again. Now I can see a slight leak on clutch master, so the slight poor change feel may be related to master. have to replace it also, and we'll see. So once again this is the type of reason oils are a hot topic. But as an engine oil I swear by it. Been using it for yrs in lancer, pulsar an old mk patrol, engine was completly stuffed but I recon penrite was the reason it kept going. When I first got my GTR 6 yrs ago I was using 5/30w penrite for 18mths, a daily drive I did at least 40k not to mention what was on it prior to me . And as the std turbo's let go as they do I opted for a full reco. I was amazed to see when my mechanic showed me the good condition the bearing etc where in. We then discused our opionions on the oils we like, as you do, and he was impressed also with penrite after seeing my engine. Now don't ask, he's a profesional engine race car and st car mechanic so I'm not giving his name as that's not very prudent for me to do that without his concent. Since engine was recoed first 20k was mutol on his word, but Ive returned to penrite last 25k and happy as a pig in mud, I simply can't justify the extra expence over I oil I know works just fine for half the price. Now this is a st only car so it dos'nt get stresed like a race car. So any debate on how it's no good for a purpose I don't put my car through is a waste of time. I'm simply stating I'm very happy with the job it is doing. Cheers

The last post is exactly what I mean, and the next bloke will swear by it. oil is highly dependant on mechanical condition,the stress that it is placed under and how reguarly it changed etc. that an opionion on what is the truly the correct oil is hard to nail down. a place to start is what was recomended by the manfacture and go from there. of course taking into account materials used in gear boxes from 20yrs ago may of changed and may not be compataible with modern oils. I had an experiance with synthetic lsd oil in an 1985 mk patrol lsd diff,so oil post dated 1995 manfactured the car. I had heard that syn oil can glase over the friction surface on older school diffs but thought to myself thats sounds weird and proberly a myth. and low and behold,diff would not lock up any more within a year and this old girl was only used twice a week low k's. this is the sort of reason I threw my 2cents in. It may of been that the diff was a problem, but it was just fine prior and was only changed to syn so it didnt need to be changed as oftern as it was a low 5k per yr car. now that's was a few yrs back and syn oil would have changed some by now I'm sure but Its exactly the sort/type of reason oil questions are a topic of debate.

What brand of paint?. and tell us how the fininsh looks in a couple of months will ya please.

Ok then, try the oil manfactures web site. Penrite have msds and data sheets on their site. It sounds like your maybe after data sheets. and the tricky part I was simply refering to for example was, so much % zinc for instance is good for ?. and on a forum site which is full of opinions you are willing to trust what % additives does what in a blend of oil. and then you'll take into account wear/tear from a car you have never seen and trust that opinion!. this would start a topic arguement that would see out this and the next century, and after reading all the comments nearly everyone who looked at it would be scratching their heads wondering w@&%tf. so that's why I didn't bother with my opinion on what does what.

yep spring is proberly the problem. did mine 5yrs ago.r32gtr. spring broke, still laying in bottom of box touch wood. cheap to fix. passengers side of gbox, 10mm bolt holds lock gate/assembly in place. smallish assembly teardrop shape. 10mm bolt is the hard bit, very little room need very long spanner, I welded a small ext to make it reach. and placed a magnet over ring spanner end to help stop bolt falling out of spanner. A ratchet spanner might be a big help.

Yep- MSDS stands for, Material Safety Data Sheet. In other words. What's in it. How to transport. How to handle it. How to contain when spilt. the list goes on and on etc. sound like you wish to know what in the oil, and here where it gets tricky, try and get a msds and you'll see what I mean, been there done that, you can get them, manufactures have to supply these by law for all/any product. what I mean by tricky is, unless you have expertise in oil, then what does this info realy mean to you!

afm's that have a intermittent problem will sometimes show the fault if you simply tap it's caseing/body with a finger. the vibration can bring fault on. the soldering inside afm can sometimes also fail with age and be a cause of poor afm. This can sometimes be fixed, but you have to be lucky for that remedy and able to solder skillfully without damaging electronics inside afm. NOT recomended if you missdiagnose afm and end out with a dud. You realy want to be sure it's the fault and needs replacing before you try thisone. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBLITY IF YOU TRY THIS AND FAIL OR DAMAGE IT ETC ETC.

One problem is, the 1way flow valve (near tank) can sometimes fail and allow fuel in line to drain back to tank and starve engine . my car does this sometimes hot. But can do it almost on demand if conditions are right. drive car near sunset, park, allow engine time to heat soak. Meanwhile outside air temp drops at this time, air pressure in fuel tank also drops and fuel drains back to tank. its dam embarrising. and you can turn key and won't start and after a while starts and runs rough for a short period then comes good. I fix it by turning ign key to position where fuel pump starts running (before eng starts) for a few seconds, then start engine. My mechanic told me about fuel drain back to tank and how to fix, well he said turn key several times but I just hold key part way to starting engine and pump running without all the other functions going on/off, personaly I think this a safer method on cars other systems. hope this helps.

Do you mean steering neutral position or gear box. I had gear box neutral switch play up, tip of switch was slightly worn away causing error report, can't remember exactly what I did but I modified switch to allow it to fit/screw slightly further in to compansate for worn tip and presto fixed. "Note" use anything petrolume base on wires, will turn wire insulation to mush with age. common problem with boats (trying to prevent rust)and to be avoided. the odd spray hear and there may not hurt but continous/overspraying is proberly the mentioned cause.

Ok my mistake no hydrulic circuit. So does the electrical version have the same capability to self test?.

find the problem yet?

think you will find, if tie rods were the problem then a steering wobble/judder? would be the problem you would be asking about. sounds like you on the right track. sway bar should also be a dull thud compaired to cv.

don't mix brake fluids. don't use synthetic if you have used mineral first they don't mix. read this somewhwere and on back of fluid bottles.

A lock bar may only solve the problem if the cause is located in the hyd circut concearned, what if it's electrical? or located in pump, sticking valve which in turn causing cavation in pump, could be many causes. Cant you do a test on it? try the turn wheel and tap brake peddel thing ,this causes the hicus to do a self test the rear wheels move and all by them selves, when the hicus computer does self test then light on dash flashes a code to tell you if it's found something. don't ask how, to much info to try and pass on here get/have alook in manual on how to do it and the codes are there also. Ive done this and it does work its interesting to watch your car moveabout buy its self. good luck

If it's the lower shock mt, any movment here will wear (out of round) the mt and needs greater attention than a bit of tape and grease. the tape and grease will last about 2 min anyway. the grease will disolve glue on tape, and the cars weight will crush/cut tape. the mt isn't replaceable is it, so to not fix it properly will only continue problem further. AND REMEMBER this is the point where all the weight of that corner is put alot of stress here, snap this mt and !!!!, lets not go there hay.

Try sway bar joint they can sqeak also, been there done that. And yes DON'T use oil or silicon on rubber bushes this only accelerates wear. As they cushion only and generly not designed to slip/move. If they are noisy, maybe something isn't right "out of alignment" or worn conecting surfaces. good luck.

I've had a CV go and find it hard to believe the sound would be compairable to worn top shock rubber noise. The CV makes a sharp cracking sound and a worn shock rubber makes a dull knock. These 2 sounds can't be confused, they are completly different. A bad CV can throw the drive shaft out of hub/socket completly, "not pretty" Maybe try swapping top rubbers left for right. If sound also moves to the other side then presto, youv'e found it. And if not then you need to look elsewhere. If shock rubbers are worn out chances are, the shocks are to, so if budget permits!. There are still plenty of spots noise can be generated so keep looking . eg - "generic description", bottom shock rubber, toe arm loose or worn rubber. good luck and remember, when it comes to worn drive train and suspension/steering if it goes wrong, it can be a matter of life or death so do it right. I work on the road for a living and see this all to often, that is when it goes pear shaped. So please dont leave it to chance or chances are, I may have to be there to pick you up, not so good.