nobby

If it's the shock mts,the you should be able to see play at top mt or try taking vechile weight partialy of the ground and recheck even try moving/shacking it "safely", you should be able to see/feel mts move and there would be your rattle. If it's the mts,the wear and tear is a good indercation the shocks are worn out anyway so just replaceing shock rubbers seems underdone, but its your car. But hey it could still be something else you hearing, or both so have a good look before you think youve got it solved.

Front stiffer to handle weight, and not just front weight but also to take kenetic enegery when breaking. Rear slightly softer also allows car to throw its weight over/into rear axle for added traction under acceleration. I'm no race driver but I'd hazzard a guess, drift cars for eg are set hard to help incress wheel spin. So its a mixed bag as outlined depending on rd cond and your personal taste. Its horses for courses.

Did you read the links at all that were given, or have you just made up your mind. going anywhere near any material with heat or cold changes things, not my law try Einstine, remember hearing something like, every action has >>>>>. your playing with peoples lives. And as for poly or rubber, check any 4x4 forum and you will see RUBBER is king hands down. This form of usage has been put through it passes for alot longer than regular cars, and rubber is the superiour option, its just that poly is cheaper and usually easyer to replace once orginal rubber has been removed, but dosn't last anywhere aslong as rubber so cheaper realy dosn't matter. The difference is poly is alot stiffer and realy tightens things up nicely at first an you'll love how it handles, but the ride will also be harsher, and that law every action comes into play here because they flex less means they wear out quicker too. Now if your going near a track then poly may be a good option as to stiffen it up but you'll need to replace them more often. lots of pros and cons I'm afraid. hope this helps.

Mate are you just d%^& or what can't you take a hint. bought mine so i had a decent car to be able to avoid silly little boys who think they can drive. if ya can't do , save us all the greef. buy yourself the wheelchair now , leave the rest of us , the tax payer and the light poles alone.

That would be nice ABS Labled Part No is 47600-05U00 isn't it. I'd have both as having Comparisons are king.

Can't say for a fact someone once told me ( who managed a business buying/importing ) that Tuesdays was the day for buying overseas, something do do with when dollars are valued and Tue was best day. Bleed screw was the intial problem but thread tape fixes that, and I recon with vac you only adjust bleeder minimal times this solves that problem. I'd just buy 1 to, but personal family reasons don't allow this indulgence.

I am after a abs unit to play with to see if that I can get it to seal, so if anyone has a unit I can have I'll do the work, I'd remove mine again and go from there but I have to have car on the Rd family commitments & work. I did manage to dramaticaly reduce leakes around solinods and didn't replace a single seal,but I could't do the job as compleatly as I would have liked as 3 of the 4 the pipes didn't want to come out on mine and I can't risk breaking something and no car, so job had to be 1/4 done. I still have another option, but I need 1 to play with. So if any one has a donor unit, please contact me. If you have 1 that blead up ok , but still leaked this is what I'm after as looking for a seals would be the 2nd phase of fix.

Hi mate, I am confident that I could fix the leaky solinod and pipe problem. But Ive struck another problem. I think the tiny cup seal of the pump pistons is leaking under vacume for the front side of abs unit. I can bleed the rear on abs and remove air but not the front. I am very sure the problem is where I mention, as the m/c is 2yrs old 5-7k, and front cal kits just installed and bleed ok so think air wont enter under pressure only vac when release foot or abs pump activates.And air rises straight to bleeder and is blead off or trapped in abs before it can be sent to cals and that abs is alot higher than cals and air remains trapped high explains my theory but hence I could be wrong and is simply still getting in around solinod/s under vac. I holly aggree with you about bleeding m/c was cause of your abs leak problem, bleding cleared abs of fine patricals sealing unit. Here's a TIP I learnt. NEVER EVER BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM WITH VACUME PUMP, THIS REMOVES FINE PARTICALS THAT ARE SEALING SYSTEM. my abs unit was fine up untill I vac bleed it. Vac bleeding is a great way if you don't have help, is very easy and fast, you only need to seal bleed srews with thread tape which I did, and a TIP, good idea any way as fluid shouldn't leak everywhere when you bleed cals etc, or air sucked back into units when vac is present when your bleeding em, makes job easy especialy when 1 man bleeding. but I cant recomend vac bleeding if seal in system is suspect/old.

It all sounds nice but arent you worried about basics like engine oil trouble, patrol will go places an rb26 was never designed to travel across, I own both the cars you mention and I recon you would be dissapointed. In the end you would have 2 throw away cars, unsellable. An idea, have a search, I recently came across a bloke on a chat site, think he was in U.K. modifying rb26 single exh stainless manifold, to mate a big single to 4.2 patrol he had head semi assembled on bench inc man&turbo, like the man he's onto something. And if I remember correcty he was going to make/mod more if anyone was interested 4.2 torque down low and buckets up top. dont you have to update engines in cars not go backwards so what would it be patrol or skyline compliance hasells till the end of time, forget insurance. and gq 4.2 don't run a cat std, so there's 1 problem gone. engine mod not a whole car from scratch. In the end you would have something you could sell,not what it cost but you'd have something special just the same. and for a whole lot less than rb26, it would also be up and running in a 20th the time. recon you should have a look around 4x4 chat sites to see what othes have achieved and go from there. Heres another option save 50+% of the dollars your idea would cost, if your 32 is gtr, have a look at Nismo's lattest offering r34 6 speed conversion for 33 and 32gtrs About 11k ex japan, if I had the money!!!.

Who gives a S@&t about how the templet looks, well done mate.

Bozz, just a thougt on what you said about water. If water in base was from anywhere but rubber boot or alloy cap cover, you would have water in the abs unit and through the system. Not good. If abs was sound when you stripped it, then water only seaped in around boot and/or alloy cap oring, which should be an easy fix. regards nobby

have a look at newones on web shop, see where balist are install if posible, go back to importer and ask for the parts that came off ya car if they missen and go from there. tooooo easy

Thanks Bozz. Certanly looks like you spent sometime on it for sure. All good cleaned up and gotta sort the seals. Think I've got the solenoids sorted in theory but to early to tell. Giving the 3 pipes some thought. These things should be able to be serviced simply to clean em out and regrease so your brakes work in tip top condition all the time. Service recomend for eg:replacing brake hoses 4-5yrs but Nil service for abs. You can play with the rest of brake system, so why not abs!. Anyhow that another story. Thanks again, nobby.

Thanks. stripped down. body cleaned. passages blown out. gotta clean the rest, and go from there. looks in good condition, but as i suspected, aged seals that have shrunk/compressed over the years. so it doesn't take a rocket scientest to figure out why the design has changed to a more mono block type to do away with the leaks. a bit of usless info. abs dates back to 1929 for planes, wikipedia.

Thanks alot for that info. I'm up the rd, Wyee 1/2 hr past Gosford. The seals would be nice but I'm sure your on the right track with em not being correct size. The top cap is pressed on/in and not screwed in?. as it didn't want to move, and there was no way I would force it, if it screwed off lefthand thread or something!. Can you get back to me asap about the cap as it's sitting on my bench awaiting my attention. I'm a night shift worker on holidays so I intend to work on it tonight. Yes it sounds silly that I aggree with you about seals, but not to pat myself on the back,I have a few ideas to solve the problem, but its a waste of time going there untill I open it and have alook and see whats realy involved. Thanks Brad (nobby)

Polyurethane stiffens the car up realy nice. [b]BUT[/b] will not last anywhere as long as standard rubber bushes. Nismo bushes are the way to go if you want to improve things but are not road/st legal. Easy to get also here in aus and say www.rhd.japan.com . This is a fair bit more expensive than poly. Anyone who has a off road 4x4 can tell you poly will not last like rubber,and it's not just the dirt that kills em ,flex is king and this is something poly can't do and recover from without going out of shape, it's simply to hard. Its a solid guess that poly is being pushed as a cheap and easy option. Iv'e used poly in an 4by a few years back and would never go down that rd again. Do a search, nismo and checkout your model. Nismo do every bush in the skylines. Having said all that, if the cars lowered you need to take this into account as adjustable arms are also worth considering to save the tyres and wheel alignment trouble. hope this helps

the driver

Ok I'm going to give it a go at stripping abs unit. So I don't do any damage to it any tips on how to dissasemble it and what not to touch?.

Hi mate you will proberly find that the rear of the car has more trouble getting air to the brakes, under my 32 bleeding brakes recently and recon there's alot more in the way at the back to block the flow. What air there is making it to the rear proberly has some degree of heat in it from up front, thats my guess. A std 32gtr also has air ducts and/or possibly a deflector directing air up front to help. Front are thicker and can soak up more heat. "think of thick and thin saucepans, which more easly burns ya tucker and gets uneven heat distrabution" same could be said for rotors. And then theres the added benifet of less unsprung weight at the back for the suspension to deal with. and lets not forget the added weight to the drivetrain, a larger weight would decress accleration to some degree, and the list goes on

Ok if I can find the time. But first I'd have to pull it down and consider if possible to find parts. If I have a win , well who's a lucky boy then!. Wallets in hand and line up lol. And RHD Japan today 26/4/11 $1396.76 + postage.

so you had a go at repair or not?. the bin is not the answere this thread was created to examine. a solution is what we are after here,

Ok so it's another thread on abs. But as far as I can see no one has answered the ? or posted the pics as promised on what it looks like dismantled and/or how to replace the leaking seals. The seals/orings at a guess let's say max $40 + brake fluid. So why spend over $100 on another unit that's 2nd hand and will proberly start leakig some time soon. Theres threads mentioning can replace seals but that's it, no one says how to and what not to disasamble. SO HOW ABOUT IT, someone must know if it can be done??.