nobby

Hi guys have a search for a page from nissan fast, NFA051, this covers 5/89 to 2/93 this may help out on the part number issue for the brake master it also shows alternate part number but unfortunatly not clear on abs presant or not.

No sorry to report soldering joints has not been the only solution. But soldering done and when the miss returns I unplug (with ign off) conectors around coils, ignitor etc a few times and this seems to fix things for a while. so electrical resistance at the joints would appear to be the problem. also to note that I have not fiddled with extra earths the last couple of time, so these don't appear involved in miss. now to work out, which conection is the culprit. this is not going to beat me.

If it were the coils, they should play up even more so the higher the rev's and power would fall also. So if this seems OK then doubt it's the coils. Mind you it never hurts to check all you can, but doubt it's the cause of the miss. When it comes to electrical faults, some are a pain at times to trace the cause.

a problem at certain revs!, could be AFM's, Igniter, CAS , tps do a pretty basic job- unlikely but you never know. Do you have a Manual to check these, if not get 1 asap as its a wealth of info on checking this sort of problem yourself, and you can spend the rest on something more important like new injectors etc

yes hks do an adaptor, try www.rhdjapan.com or any hks aust dealer. but be aware sizes may differ as yours is a copy. good luck.

Do a search, The engine oil bible, it's worth a read. There is tons of stuff on the web when it comes to oil.

the odd backfire would point towards airflow meter, or on a cold night the air is alot thicker (more oxygen in it) could be a bit lean, reasons are many for back fire, no offence but your giving miss infomation.

If ya can remember back a while the problem was only with 32, and now its 32 and 33. So with that said, is it possible 34 will soon have aged wiring also and the problem happens to it also. Lets hope not, with luck nissan decided to improve joints in loom. I'd been talking with my mechanic about this miss and he said he'd given up trying to find the cause. as he'd lost count how many hrs spent looking also. To tell the truth my mechanic told me about the joints near computer, and that why I soldered them, but i then noticed in wire diagrams that there was more of these crimps in the loom so I looked for the easyest ones to also fix and lucky for me I found the ones that were realy causing a problem.I don't know if all joints near computer are all earths so don't assume they are and earth them, i just soldered them to improve connection DON'T RUN EXTRA EARTH DIRECTLY FROM COMPUTER AS SOME OF THESE ARE ACCUATLY NEG SWITCHING CIRCUITS AND BANG THERE GOES YOUR COMPUTER UP IN SMOKE. now remember I never said this will fix problem, but touch wood sofar my fault has gone 2weeks and 500 +k's. good luck

and the plate thats at the back is to reduce/stop cavatition also.

So why do you think the wiring isn'nt the problem? The tarnish that was on my wiring and how much off an improvement fixing these connections made was enough for me to think , hay heres something and hopefully pass on a fix for others to benifit. My pfc I purched new 2 1/2 yrs ago. and have watch my car slowly get worse over the last year or so. I'm not saying I fixed it and this is the soloution only that it seems to of solved my problem instantaly. I'd also like to add, an improvement in fuel economy, 2 lt better per 100k . My engine is running smoother and even my father inlaw who's no car nut told me he can hear how much better it sounds. Not trying to fly my flag I'm just very happy how it's turned out for me. cheers

Sorry the pics I took arn't clear enough to send. If you know how to solder and have the proper tools and time to do the job correctly have a go. I tryied not to use any acid to clean, just fluxed solder but did have to use acid on a couple, but I did use electronic cleaner spray on all joints after solders and sealed them back up with self amalgamating elec tape around soldered joint and normal elec tape to rebuild loom. tape avail at jaycar it's expensive around $20 a 10m roll, it does stretch though, and worth it I recon. cheers

I have had new plugs that where stuffed straight out of the box, quite a few times over the years, but Try testing the wiring loom for the coils, the loom for these that runs to coils is fairly straight foward to remove from car. I'd bet the loom has poor conections inside it and since you moved this to fit new plugs etc, its proberly upset the ageing factory wiring. (note) it may test ok, have a look inside loom, I recently did on my gtr and found a real problem as there is a number of wire crimps, which I soldered and my car its now even more of a joy to drive than ever before. If you don't realy know how to solder best to get someone who knows what their doing as these wires are a bit thick at crimped area. TIP don't just wrap in electrical tape use self alamagating tape, far better sealing properties but expensive. Jaycar have it. Hope this helps.

this may sound silly, you didn't forget to remove rags before reconecting pipes?

Sure is, I recon there is a number of faulty connections burried within the oem looms and this said a number of different problems are accuring, hence the problem that eludes so many. I hope I'm right that this is all the problems is, but a pain in the ass to find and repair all faults.

Well it's been nearly a week and 300klm since I soldered the looms and even though I said problem would proberly return. IT HASN'T. car running better than ever. car does have a multi earth in engine bay conected directly to battery. I mention this because I only noticed a difference when I ran one to ignitor, but the miss returned.

Yep, this was my reason for looking inside the loom in the first place. I noticed that every time the factory earths were touched or added to things got better, but soon after returned to bad idle and missfire returned and not always with the same frequency, sometimes every 15 min, then redo earths and once a day. My guess is that the apexi pfc is sensitive to the poor earth. You can add all the earths in the world, but if the power can't get to your new earths. Can someone please look at their loom and have a go at fix to confirm my fix. The crimps near computer did look nice and clean, but once I soldered them I did notice an improvment. and the crimps in coil loom however looked like the were the real cause of the problem, not coroaded but tarnished. Hope this fixes your car to, but I'm still leaning towards the problem rearing its head again as the is still alot of these crimps throughout the looms, take a good look at wiring digrams available in the manuals cheap on ebay. GOOD LUCK

OK, well I'm not going to say I fixed the missfire but !!!. After reading all the blogs etc about bad earths on this and that car and been chasing the misfire in my gtr I was also convinced the problem was bad earth. NOW I HAVE TO WARN ALL UP FRONT IF YOU CAN'T SOLDER AND OR DON'T REALY KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING WHEN SOLDERING DON'T ATTEMPT THIS .COMPUTER/LOOMS ARE TO EXPENSIVE TO STUFF UP.. I uncovered the wiring near computer to find a bunch of wires that are crimped ( I assume at the factory) so they got the soldering treatment. CAR RUNNING A LOT BETTER, MISSFIRE STILL THERE, BUT FAR LESS DRAMATIC. SO WHEN YOUR ON A GOOD THING. the loom that feeds the ignition coils got the treatment also, and touch wood the missfire seems to be gone altogether.. CAR NOW RUNNING EVEN BETTER STILL, it still has that big cam stumble at idle, but nowhere near as bad as before. I recon there is alot more of the factory crimps burried in the loom that could be fixed also. This is a breif description of the fix as I will not be held responsible for someone frying their computer/loom etc.

I read somewhere, an apexi pfc wont work properly if boost control function is turned on and you don't have the optional apexi pfc boost controler hooked up, this function needs to be turned off when not being used. hope this helps

Can you be more detailed please, "REPLACED ALL EARTH LEADS". Which leads?

try this, a mate of mine recently had a crank angle sensor fail and the engine made knocking sounds like you describe, and my r32 gtr has just developed the same sounds, you could expect if the sensor fails the timming is out badly and as a result engine knock so try checking this, also check coils, igniter . i`m hopeing for both our sakes its as simple as this, and back on the road again. it may not be the fault of the engine builder at all, and as past experince has tought me dont be to quick to assign blame. so good luck with your car

this car kicked ass so much so at bathuarst, its now a v8 only race. so much for the competition ,a 2 horse race how boring, keep practicing

ok thanks

g-day guys, just bought r32 gtr & want to do my own oil changes, but how in da ##%%** do you get at the oil filter?, i know theres a remote unit available around $300 , does it use orignal type filter? any help would be very welcome