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Heh - I went to the wreckers on san matio / 16th for magna parts. Don't think thats *quite* what you are after. Anyway, the magnas dead. Perhaps you could find out from a couple of sprint car team sponsors who does the work on their 'cars'. I'd get my dad & grandfather to help with everything except the dyno tune, and the melbourne thing seems to be to get dr drift to tune the ecu (I wouldn't actually know. stocker...) I'll ask a couple of friends, but I don't know if I'll be able to help.

Would it be a factor of cable distance, or perhaps of the ecu relaying the information to the respective control units? I presume that these all use the ecu consult port, right? -->So apart from the fact that I want to intercept the G-sensors for the attesa, and intercept the BOSS sensor and directly control the solenoids for hicas, I can talk to the control units.... If only there was documentation on the 'active tests' and what they did... cool.

ha ha ha. you tell half a story. Yes, I got my car for 5k in japan.... shipping and import duty 3k.... compliance was cheap (900), rwc was costly, needed new tyres, and then there was stamp duty with the rego, and finally insurance. got a turbo timer to wire in, need to buy and fit an immobiliser, and get the air conditioning regasseed (degassed in japan)... and its not even modified You need SEVS to get an r33 in, and the compliance workshop has to do all the work... r32 has a few left over import models sitting around... but not many, and not for long (and compliance is cheaper on 15yr import law than for sevs) and lets not mention the time involved... nah, stick to Australia. Thats what I think, anyway.

not fair !!!!!!!!!

keep looking. if you *do* want that push in the back feeling, rb25de has almost as much top end as rb20det. in an r32, 160kw is.... sweet. i have a gts4. its no gtr, but i don't have to worry about getting it sideways (unless i disable the awd...... look out) r32 gts25 - didn't know it existed, but it sounds sweet. good luck with the search, whatever you get. and don't get no degreased rattly try to cover up all the problems car either. you should be able to get a decent one. as was said, you will have a pretty quick opinion of what car you want. and bring a (more) mechanical mate with you if you can. knowledge is power

from mildura? might as well jump in then gts-t + mods vs gtr... go the gtr. cheaper in the meanwhile, and the attessa is awesome (with minor electronics knowledge). gtr vs countach..... Well, in mildura, you certainly are going to be noticed. hell, id say around melbourne as well. the handling will we better for a rwd (but its still *not* awd), but.... well... just how much engine would the kit have? if its not much, you would be used to (and like, i'd say) the power. engine ==> drivetrain, etc... you drive a modified car, you know how it is. in the end, i would have to say chase your dreams. handling at 200+ kph isnt a concern in day to day driving (or shouldn't be) my dream was a 4 door 4 wheel drive v8 - because when it was concieved, it was the best i could think of. i have a gts-4, so i'm part way there already. 200+awkw, and i'll count that dream as fulfilled - and being this close is bliss. man, what a dribbler. i type too much.

Don't they also say use only genuine nissan parts? And as for their stand on (gasp) a modified car... (hang on - thats recycled from the thread on optimax extreme) So if you skyline still has new car warranty, don't use ethanol. and run the odd bottle of injector cleaner through as well (from a mate - probably not gospel)

If you are happy to run 10% ethanol, be my guest. If you have any problems with it, please share them. there was a similar discussion about the optimax extreme (100 octane, 5% ethanol) recently. The only reason I don't is because of general availability. I put a few country k's on any car I own. How much of the fuel system (tank -> pump -> lines -> fuel filter -> hoses(s) -> injectors) is plastic / rubber? that would be my concern. good on you. I hope for the best

Cool. very nice. So tell us all - what is the engine going into?

mesh it. Its up to you whether you leave it plain, attack it with black, sliver or chrome spraypaint, have it electroplated or powdercoated...

How do the wheels return to 0 degrees on the '32 gtr system? The diagram seems to imply that there is a spring, so that when the pump is not on, it will return to centre. I am asking, because my gts4 has had the wires cut to the hicas unit, and somehow the rear wheels remain straight...

Sheesh, go buy the thing then. It may provide interesting data, but it will be useless in preventing engine damage. If anything drastic happens, its slow. If anything big happens, the O2 sensor is undefined at 16. I *presume* that it reaches max voltage (and holds), but who knows. Well, I think I've cause enough trouble. I wanna go home (did someone say steak?)

Err - just because the O2 sensor isn't being read, it doesn't mean its not working, has vanished, or has turned into a steak. Like has been said though - why bother? The factory sensor is barely adequate for its job (14's), and with undefined (or no) behaviour past 16..........

The documentation I have read implies that there *is* a consult port (that is, it had an id byte after a two byte initialisation) it just doesn't seem to be wired up. Of course, I could be wrong. though it appears that all the computers get *all* their data as sensor voltages.... ahh, the possiblilties are endless (when I make that attessa controller, I'll share it with confidence - as opposed to state my theory and get shot to pieces) While I'm at it, I'll ask this question: What are the inputs to the hicas computer, AND how does it control the pump (r32). heck - the same with attessa. I have partial information on the input, none on how it controls the centre diff. I suspect I'll need to get at it with a multimeter one day...

Seat belts are fine. they will have JIS markings on them (well, on a white tag sewn into the base or something like that). Provided they lock (they do), they are ADR compliant. You could check by pulling the trim off the doors and cheking for side intrusion bars. or you could post your vin number into the appropriate thread (nissan software or something - the thread exists), and then post the reply back here (so I can see too.....) So what do you need to register the car? I am presuming that you have all the appropriate import approval stuff... How big / what are you "non original" wheels. if they are the same size as stock, I don't see a problem. If they are legal, I don't think there would be a problem. If they are 32' - I see a problem... EDIT - Nissan FAST Software

I thought that R32 GTR had 17' wheels.... but some poking around has proven me wrong (just wider). As part of compliance, I had to have some 'tyre placard' on my car (under the bonnet, or passenger side door or something). It *does* list 17' wheels on it. I guess more of you would have access, but I can post a copy of it up if you want.

How do I afford my skyline? 1) I didn't get a GTR 2) I got an R32 (1990 model) 3) I didn't get a GTR 4) Work, save, and have a great girlfriend. did I mention I didn't get a GTR?

Sweet... I've had my gts4 on the road for a week (as of today) I'll swap engines with you - it'll get rid of that 'nasty tick'

Isn't the diff alot like the gearbox in its oil requirements? very thin oil (with particular properties - of which I have no idea) very level sensitive (too little and too much is bad) but doesn't tend to leak, and can be left for a long time? I'd say find the correct level (and oil), and fix it. Sure, it *might* be fine. Do you want to find out for real? And the diff is not connected directly to attessa. Its driven by the driveshaft, which does not spin (and hence provides no torque) till attessa engages it. "Doom, Doom and gloom, I say"

Cool. Good for you, and good luck. Don't do anything stupid, and it will all be good. Well, excepting insurance (you and me both, buddy). Have a little fun, just remember the street is not a safe place for it. Even if you can do it, some other idiot can still destroy a beautiful piece of machinery. enjoy

try a search. it would tell you that the wheels only turn to +/- 1 degree. It would probably suggest you that you should remove / disable the HICAS I guess you could disable it like the previous owner of my car did - cut all the wires to the control unit.... Probably not safe though. I would think that If the FRONT of the car can handle full lock without scrubbing, the back will be fine. If you want the gaurd over the top of the tyre (1.5 in?) you need to consider alot more than merely tyre scrub. The car probably won't handle. again, search (because I've read that on the forums somewhere, but don't know where). The suspension setup is not made for it.

The PowerFC is a complete ECU unit. It will replace the current one. It will also allow you to locally tune it. Since you will have to get it tuned when you put in on, whether you would see an improvement depends on the state of tune of your current ecu. If you havn't modified anything, odds are any gain will be minimal (ie. already tuned for the mods). If you have changed anything, you should get more out of it. As far as I know, there are two main aftermarket ECU's for skylines - PowerFC and Motec. Unless you are aiming for stratospheric power levels, PowerFC will be fine (I like the idea of the aussie motec though). I don't know enough about either to prompt you in a particular direction though.

Hi. I have a gts-4 For future reference, aside from engine mounts (slotting, replacing), is there much that can be done? As in, pump the bonnet & get a vent cut? (I know I'm dreaming - but I'm already half way there...)

Wow - I've never seen a forum so clean... just a question though - whats wrong with here? Though I hope you do get it up and running. I might even see you there....

looks like you won't be happy till you wrap your car around a tree. Or worse, till you kill the occupants of an oncomng car and have to live with the consequences. Its simple. Learn to drive responsibly. You parents (through dint of sheer age) may just have a point. You just want "power". power trip more like. just do all us 'line owers a favour: get a volvo, and don't make us look bad