ebola

Uh huh. Each manufacturer can create their own scheme. sine we all like nissans, rb, vg and sr mean nothing, they are merely series numbers. If they ever did stand for something, its long lost now. I know (some) toyota engine codes (and goole knows the rest - google know all....), but didn't know they messed them up.

so whats a 4-agze then? Though it is true that the japanese provide an english code for their engines.

Why? (I don't know how, either)

Err - talk to AQIS (Customs). There will be tax (and a HUGE set of tax rules) in addition to clearance fees (and container hire) (and insurance) It has been said that there are two certainties in life: Death and Taxes. Its not true. I don't plan to die.

Riiiight then. Updates ahoy. it was $1300 all up. $750 was for tyres. Hankooks for the rest, 1 hr labour at $70, and $220 per side I know, it doesn't add up - thats because my rwc is at home, and I am at work. So after all that, The car is booked into vicroads for Monday (9:00) Don't know what happened to the 'oil leaking from rocker cover', but I didn't bring it up. (and it hasn't been done) My final question is the HICAS light. Its on (permanently). Is there an easy way to (temporarily) disable it? Or is it a fix it / dash out job? Either way, thanks

10.5:1 compression is higher than standard. Had a mate with an rb30de, made 100 or so (or was it 97?). Pod filter, 2.5in extractors, and pistons - I think it was to 9.5:1 (but I'm not sure, and don't know the standard compression). Either way, It was smooth. There was no torque curve. It made 100 Nm from 0 (well, almost) ro redline. I like turbos, I like power, but the delivery of that car was so linear it was incredible (or am I talking out my hat) Either way, 10.5 and a DE head (*with* vvt) should be great. I cant wait for your preliminary results

Rotors - He was still iffy but I assured him I would change the rotors when I changed the pads. Its true. Though I will probably take a weekend and do it myself, though. Seatbelts have a JIS marking = Legal (took a while to convince him) Enough on those - they are no longer an issue. *I* am checking the suspension bushes tonight. Though he said 15-20mm play, so he cant pass on it. And though I don't like my chances, I will try and bargain on the price. Tyres, well, they are not the cheapest. But you can't budget a grand when you have already borrowed an (extra) two. That said, I want tyres that still grip OK in the wet. They should be fine in the dry. finally, rocker cover. I'll arrange to take my car home for the weekend and have a crack at it myself, if I can. As for another mechanic, well, time has got to me (I never seem to have quite enough). This time, anyway. I don't have to come back (and fix my own cars anyway - though this may be a little harder than my old magna) thanks

How about some more details then? current Expressions Of Interest, expected cost for membership / track days, expected frequency (monthly? daily? (heh)), time(friday night, saturday), etc. If you know, that is. Please. For people like me - no clue, looks interesting, *waaaaaay* to early to commit.

Something like this. While rb30's may be rare in jamacia, freighting a turbo (or two) is probably a good option. rb26 twin turbos will (according to my understanding) spool faster than an rb25 turbo AND push more air. and they have a combined capacity of 2.6L, not 4.0L. Unless you can figure out how to get more air in at lower rpm (I vote suprecharger - but then 3 induction aides...?) I guess at the end of the day you would want something close to 3L worth of (two) turbo(s) (according to the factory) that will still bolt on. Well, thats my uneducated opinion. good luck with the venture. Since you have the gear, I think you should just stick them on. But if you wind up the boost, you will probably run lean. good luck

The discs are technically roadworthy - though they will be replaced the next time I need pads. They are pretty scored. Note taken though. Thanks. Thanks though. Spoke to the engineer - he checked, and they are roadworthy. They should be marked with an E, but vicroads will also accept a JIS marking. That leaves tyres (I value my life more than cheap rubber), oil leak (I'll have a crack this weekend), and suspension brush. While its good to know it needs replacing, I think a second opinion is in order. And while I'm at it, I guess I could get tyres too. Since the quote included $50 labour (not that they said, and not that it takes long to drive the car across the road to the nearest tyre place). Information Bulletins as News Breaks

Like the avatar name. I know, seatbelts save lives - I don't mind doing them, I just want to do them a little cheaper than was qoted. Which wouldn't be hard if I didn't have time limits (story of my life)

Update: Pricelist Pads and Rotors: $721.40 (40c?!?) Seat Belts: $815 (ow) Front Upper Wishbone Brush: $638 Fitted Tyres: $550 (205/55/R16 hancook) If I read the dba catalog aright, R32 gts4 rotors are: F R part num 909 908 org. thick. 30 18 mm min. thick. 28 16 mm diameter 280 297 mm I had a word with the mechanic, and he said he had the wrong specs for the rotor (but he didn't have the correct specs either). He thought 30mm, I said 28mm minimum. He said 'only just'. Oh - and I know that I would have to replace the entire assembly and not just the rotor for GTR or Z32 brakes. But as has been pointed out, it is not worth it (well, not yet, anyway). I know I have to replace my rotors - I just don't want to do it right now (cashflow... a couple of months). What would make a brush unroadworthy? Any ideas on cheaper seatbelts (and how hard are they to install) (and do I need a centre lap band or a proper sash (or whatever)). EDIT: removed pointless question Thanks for the advice so far. Playing tag with the engineer. have to get back to the mechanic. so much to do, so little time

Thanks. Well, Tyres are no problem, but the suspension brushes, seatbelts and rotors are. Where or how should I get seatbelts from (will ring tomorrow, and see if it includes the rear seats - guess it does)? Where should I get the Fr Upper Wishbone brushes from? I guess Whiteline suspesnion (and who should fit them, as I simply don't have the time right now) And the guy said front AND rear rotors - I could believe just the front. I will get him to specify *exactly* what sizes they are, but what would be the best way of going about replacing them. Hunt for z32? gtr? dba rotors? As for the rocker cover, if it really is an issue, its easy to fix. Will post quoted prices tomorrow. And do some shopping around of my own. EDIT - the car only has 78k km on the clock, and it felt like they were genuine.

I had better marshal some facts before confronting my mechanic... The list of Roadworthy concerns are: F & R disc rotors - 2mm undersize. Searbelts don't meet ADR's 4 tyres (cracked, don't meet ADR's) (big deal - expected this) Fr Upper wishbone brushes need replacing rocker cover leaking oil So I am asking what people think of the list. I have a 4 door manual gts-4 (and 30 days of VASS ticking away) What size should my rotors be? Do 15yr imports need to replace seatbelts? (and) how expensive is it to purchase (& mechanic to fit) Fr Upper wishbone brushes? I have found some information, but I thought I would post it to get some opinions on it. thanks EDIT - as has been summised, it is an r32

You don't appear to know how the 4wd works. Rear diff has to be "full strength", so to speak, as the car only engages the front wheels when slip is detected. And I do believe that when the wheels start to spin, there is less load on the diff (less "torque resistance"). Also, in the r32, there is no need to play with driveshafts, as the centre diff has no contact unless activated (unlike r33 and r34). The fuse under the bonnet is clearly marked. And I should have my r32 gts4 on the road by next week. Don't forget to put the fuse back after every run. Enjoy... Check the FAQ FORUM and click the r32 rwd link. Then rather than pulling the fuse, you can wire up a switch.

? Let me get this straight. you are making custom manifolds for the twin rb20 setup? And then plumbing back into the single exhaust right before the cat? (Just checking I have my facts right) Question - had you considered an rb26 manifold (and do they even bolt onto a '20) and dump pipe? (EDIT - and turbos) The setup will be laggier than standard, and probably past the stock injectors - but the boost warnings have all been given (heed them well). Of course, you already had 1 '20 turbo... I am actually curious as to exactly when they start producing useable boost. Good luck with the venture

Not a mechanic, and I need to be able to see things to fix them (when I can), but I CAN tell you that if the stub axle is bent, throw it away. I dn't konw if you can straighten them, but I would NOT trust your life to a poiece of steel that is that fatigued. Sounds to me like you need to fix the lot - via a smash repairer. I hope for your sake that I'm wrong. Good luck

I meant that I got my car working. Though as usual, my statements are as clear as mud. spark, air and fuel. could smell the fuel (so there was some), and the fact that it would splutter for a second or two implied ignition (and compression). I had forgotten about air. I had checked the paper element in the air filter (needs replacing, but not urgently), and it seems the hose clamp wasn't on properly. The hose had come off the airbox. I guess I'm lucky it stayed put driving it home. Because there was no air flow through the MAF sensor, it wasn't starting. I guess when it went for 1/2 a second the vibration of the motor being turned made it line up briefly. Its a manual, and as it was a simple *stupid* thing, I have not taken the CAS module off to check it. RWC, rego, THEN I get to play. Again, thanks to the people on the forum for helping.

My car has no alarm, and I had already checked the fuses. Your suggestion about the filters is close though. The airbox was hardly connected to the turbo intake. Check the filter, knock the pipe off, engine wont start, post on SAU, look dumb, re-connect hose, clamp the thing on PROPERLEY, smooth as anything. First bit of fun with my new car. Woo Hoo!!!! Thanks for the suggestions though, all filed away for future reference.

starter mortor turns over most of the time nothing, and then it will splutter for a second and die. to me it sounds like it wants to start I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the ignition on One of the warning lights comes on - S S S _____ == === ----- left of the 'open door' light, and under the '4wd' light. I don't know what it is, and it *may* be relevant. I get off at 2 today (home at 3), so I'll be checking it out then. thanks

Get an adjustable exhaust valve.... A'pexi ECV. Don't know how good they are, only that they exist

Well, this is new to me. a new forum topic. hope it doesn't get snowed under... I just picked up my 1990 gts-4 from compliance (in Melbourne). Nice, started straight away. Drove round the corner to put in 20L of fuel... Again, no problem starting. Got home and couldn't re-start the thing. It had plenty of time to cool down (if its not on boost, there is no need to leave it running to cool the turbo, right?) Occasionally it will briefly (1/2 a second) tick over, but then it dies. It has been suggested to me that it is fuel starvation. Fuel filter is top of the "I can do it" list. Mechanic is second (and an RWC). Is there any way I can check it? Or are there any other ideas / theories? I just don't get why it worked before and not now. Talk about deflating expectations And yes, I tried the search button. 'search flooding', according to the server. I don't get it - I am sure that I have seen these type of posts many a time before. Oh well, If I have transgressed, I am sure I will be told.

Burn them off

Other damage? your sons pride.... (your sons hide? - I didn't say that) Had a friend who duplicated what your son has done. Except that he took it to a mechanic to fix. I would just fix what is visibly damged, and find out what else is bent when the bolts don't line up. But this does tend to have the car off the road for a little longer than is nessesary (oh - it doesn't fit. We'll have to get that part next time) pretty dense, huh? oh well, good luck.

Hmm - a diesel powered skyline.......