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All good points, warpspeed. Though there are a few bikes with turbos, they don't run alot of boost. Though seeing some crazy guy popping a mono at 300+ kph on a bike with a turbo. well, I'll just say that stability wasn't great (and I *like* motorbikes). but yes, turbos take time to spool. Though I would say an engine can accelerate faster than the turbo - it just wont make as much power. I agree that a turbo is impractical for a top fueler (and as you said illegal). I just don't think that it could be done, as in I think that heat woult be too much of an issue. gas turbine..... now there's a thought. only question is how much reduction gearing would you need? "She does 220 in first. I hate the 60 kph speedlimits though" --another semi-pointless debatable point brought to you by the letter 'I'

? um. Sorry, but, like, you have so totally got to do some research. you need control to drift. unless you just want to hang the end out from time to time. then again, what would I know?

yes. its called a supercharger EDIT: And since I am here, could someone explain HOW a top fueler could be expected to run a turbo? Here I was thinking that heat management was a serious issue (oil and water cooled), and yet a top fueler that ejects still combusting fuel out of its 8 individual dump pipes could run a turbo. Till I see a reasonable explanation, I'll stick to my guns. There - my 2c, and my $2 change

I vote custom "supercharger". just a fan to force air into the carby. Of course, if you wanted to do it properly, it would be better to use a draw-through rather than a push-through, but, hey, its a lawnmower. It'll be pulling low 12's in no time

my $2. I meant 2c... Get a cheap manual car. It might only take an hour to be able to change gears, it will take alot longer till you can glide between them. Manuals can be smoother than autos. And the more cars you practice in, the better you will get. As has already been stated, cars all have different points of engagement for the cluth. Get used to your car, be able to drive others. It took me months (as a Learner) to be able to drive straight while changing gears. I wasn't the best of drivers. Still arn't, but I learnt. When you *get* your 'good car', you will appreciate the fact that you can already drive a manual PROPERLY, instead of just having learnt enough to pass a test (that tests road rules, I might add, not defensive driving) and forgetting it all. and I would be most surprised if you never had a (hopefully small) accident in your first car. better to get a bomb, and better to learn to drive all cars, not just good ones.

? I dont get it. just shift the water bottle.

From the little I know, wouldn't the attesa be reading the ecu for the throttle position sensor? I know that hicaus reads information from the ecu. why not attesa? At least it appears that way to me when I looked at the spec sheets that are provided by plms. perhaps if you PM'd "New Kleers" he might know. Then again, he might not, and I don't know him. also, not that I have done it for this, but this sounds like something a search would turn up -> good luck.

I think they spat the turbos out. You CANT put a turbo on a top fueler. moot point. end of story. There are two types of supercharger, and a fixed displacement type will provide boost from nowhere, but is not as efficient at top end. Then there is the compressor bladed supercharger - same as a turbo, except that boost is proportional to rpm, not exhaust. There *is* lag, but its always the same. no boost creep, and no problems with short ramp settings on dynos Either way, supercharger have a higher cost (in kilowatts) to run than an equivalent turbo. better or worse? What are you after? a supercharger (screw type) IS on my wish list... but I'm keeping the turbo.

Good point. *now* I remember, the less restriction after the turbo the better. but as low rpm, would the turbos provide enough of a restriction? Or it is just that as soon as boost starts to kick in, there is more than enough exhaust... ideas?

It my understanding that a bigger exhaust is better for top end, but can lose power at low revs (no backpressure). So just don't go sticking a 5in exhaust on, and you should be fine. 3.5in should be dandy

You have a problem with you attesa

Never mind. I've been mesmerized by chrome and aluminium. Oh - and the extra 600cc would be nice, too

looks nice Madaz, what is to stop pressurized air from escaping OUT the turbos before they spool up?

so? and I do believe that there is a potential power difference between hight-mount and low-mount turbos. hight mount can make more power. because the speed of the exhaust flow is porportional to the temperature, and there is less time for exhaust heat to bleed out of the manifold on a top mount. Thats the theory. Though I dont think it makes a difference on any sane (or even semi-sane) budget. I also THINK that a high mount turbo gives better airflow? or is easier to keep cool or something...

nice one, StockyMcStock but I have a question for you (and everyone else, as well). I had figured that if would be more efficient to have the blower before the turbo, not after (yes, I did read your post). I had figured on the supercharger being a liability once the turbo kicked in. I'll take your word for it. but what do you reckon would happen if it was the other way around? supercharger, then turbo? so many questions. so little time

I don't understand... how can a supercharger be laggy? I thought that the SC superchargers were screw types - fixed displacement. that is, boost from zero. and even variable displacement superchargers are more predictable than turbos. rpm = boost, no matter what load. I have thought about (and no more than thought) a small fixed displacement supercharger before the turbo (rb20) in order to provide a little more power off turbo boost - and switch it off automatically when the revs get high (magnetic clutch). Except that I don't know what kind of draw through the supercharger would have when the turbo is pulling three times the amount of air. I figure it would be able to spool the turbo quicker too - pre-turbo boost = more air in = more air out = more exhaust. hmm... I think its time to search for supercharger turbo.... EDIT: perhaps I should read more carefully. lag with *current* setup. But I'm still interested. I'd like to see what can ge done with a pre-turbo super charger.

EDIT: questions answered between clicking 'reply' and 'post'

I'd say it would the carbon fiber that costs the money, not those three letters. vivid racing might be able to help. $US + Shipping, though. face it. this is an expensive way to go faster. why not just get a shorter diff? eh - and the snide comments are free.

Impatience is killing me, but my r32 gts-4 should clear customs this week. when its here, I could have a play for you... especially if you send source code (though I would understand if you don't want to). I presume its C... ? I have some ideas about 'tuning' via the consult port. Including a 'choose your tune' button

I have *heard* 300kw at the wheels. As has been said though, its how you treat it. the gts4 has different ratios to a gtr, including a different final drive. Well, according to the specs anyway. EDIT:: oops, wrong specs EDIT2: As has been pointed out below, r32 gts-4 is different. Perhaps I should widen my perspective to include other models... Perhaps not.

Duncan - it appears to me from reading the thread that this only modified the signal when it is NOT at zero. I am looking for the HKS style, and from boostdesigns comments, sounds like he is too. For launch, the HKS style will be quickest (no engagement lag), and then the ones that Duncan reccomends (predefined torque split). once you are up and moving, the HKS style will become a drawback, as you are turning all that extra drivetrain for no reason (plenty of traction). In a straight line, once you have grip, 4wd is a liability (drivetrain and weight). Of course, if you could quickly switch of the HKS style unit.... Duncan's one sounds like the least amount of bother. dial in 50-50, and when there is no slip it will disengage. Hey - perhaps you could swap attesa controllers (ha ha ha). Good luck of course, while the theory is correct (it'd better be), I cant answer from practice. My gts-4 is still on a ship (or its somewhere in customs), due this week... I want to get hold of a HKS style unit (constant) unit when it gets here. Will search/post then.

Yeah, I knew the first two. its the rest I cant find an explanation for. I got most of the auction sheet (the images helped, though)... I was just wandering what equipment was actually specified. Guess I'll find out properley soon enough.

---==Thread Hijack Alert==--- and to add insult to injury, the sr20det is 162... with more midrange. And less weight. But as I am about to come into possesion of a stock rb20det, I would like to know how much gets to the road (as per my sig...) heck, if anyone knows what an rb20 can do for all the wheels, I'd like to know too (gts-4, you see). So one day I can see where I've been

Ah - as in put ON the boat. Perhaps I should post replies a little quicker. and while i'm here, I cant find an explanation for all of my auction sheet. It seems to be glossed over in the internet descriptions, and a forum search yielded 4 pages - with no applicable topics. Equipment: PS PW AW SR SRC ? Thanks. more updates as news happens. like, three weeks. I hope. Cant wait.

I see e5 (and e10) as lead in fuels towards a higher ethanol content (perhaps straight) available. Hey, I can dream. 20psi on ethanol... mmmmmmm