ebola

Irregular? as in misfire? coil packs? test by pulling off 1 plug at a time... should should get more uneven 5/6... and no change 1/6 (dead sparky / coilpack) as to the scraping... well, dunno. I can take a long shot guess at the uneven, but scraping... umm, one thing at a time. hope this helps. It _might_ be easier to undo the oil pack cover and disconnect them there... ... I paid a mechanic. --ebola EDIT: or it could just be a hole, or..... gasket not sealing, only enough exhaust to pop the seal under load (boost and revs)... um, yeah. have fun... and good luck

Someone spoon feed me... just do the standard mild NA mods. leave the head, free the intake, exhaust to 2.25 or 2.5, get a tune (or cpu)... and get a handling kit. No sense going fast if you can't turn.

I don't THINK so... VG has a different pattern to the RB... ask on the 300zx forums. oh - and, umm, why?

Take each for a test drive. My driving position is a little awkward... I have about 2mm of clearance between my head and the roof (one reason the sunroof cover is always open)... and its a little tight getting in and out... but I love my car. 32, 33, Skyline, Supra, Daewoo Don't ask US what we like - get get YOU like. Except the Daewoo. Don't get that.

What do you mean by 'rear skirts' or 'pods'? there is some other thread on this in the the 4 door section... I don't have a body kit, nor do I fit them, but, well, I'd say a 4 door is a little different. post a pic / link... but the answer is probably 'no'. get a 4 door 'kit' - or more than likely, get a pair of front fenders and a custom job ont he back... at least the wheels are the same distance apart...

I just did my CV joints... group buy, anyone? nK

...ace

ANY Help? try checking the solenoid. around page 347 in the r32 service manual try using yahoo and searching for nissan skyline (PDF)

Autospeed article summary: turn G-sensor unit 90deg... effective round corners, loses straight line 4wd. simple resistor pot - crude, but effective. (10k resistor into lateral line) op-amp based unit (variable 2.5v clamp) - superb, and for sale in the $450 attessa thread. its under the centre compartment thingy between the front seats.

http://www.airbagit.com/airsuspension.htm http://www.air-suspension-forum.com/ c/o http://www.google.com/ answer to your question is 'no'. Short reason is "airbags don't handle well" long reason is "do research". air sounds all good, but in practice, its just not worth paying for (I still intend to keep using it, but only for combustion and respiration) If you could find a set that can 'handle' ... and is cheaper than proven technologies, awesome. I doubt it, though. Oh - and just a thought - you might want to look at upgrading things like sway bars as well at the same time. EDIT - just looked at the air-suspension-forum link. damn its empty. time to remind myself "research != google".

Yeah, but since I actually want to push my car hard once in a while, they are probably better. same height, perhaps, but can soften them off for road & tighten them for track (for when I get there...) race quality air shocks... I couldn't find out if they were height adjustable - and as for air bags, well, although triple convolute bags have the right amount of travel (and legality), they are a 'street' application (afaik). not that I get to the track (once so far), but I will one day.

I'm 100% stock... I had considered air shocks as a possibility for a while. (Adjustable ride height) currently want (one day in the distant and modified future) tein edf. And technically - 'lines already have coil overs. Its just the setup of the shock in the spring (or so I understand - go ahead, kill me if I'm wrong...) --ebola

...waiting and watching R32 = not clutch pach issues with RWD, less you changed your gb to R33/34 when you did the engine (green with envy) Sounds like a plan. Though that is almost the original intent of the thread. Where/How to learn - and the obviously not the streets, or the question woulndn't have been asked

I think they have some rules to do with fainting... and since this seems to be the 'donate blood' revival thread (or was there an even older one from before I bother subscribing to vic forums)... who's is the gts4 with the 'donate blood' sticker on the back (gtst4 - also drives another old datsun/nissan)...

Fun road to drive. Went up fairly quickly - didn't speed (except for once - to get past a bus). Some corners a waaaaay too sharp to race through if the road isn't closed. As I'm sure anyone who has done some driving on alpine / mountain roads will be able to tell you - some drivers are scary. Post back if (when?) you manage to get the road closed. Till then, I don't want to kill someone (or myself) by crashing or swerving, losing traction and going over the 'hey - its a long way down' edge.

I admit - I cheated. cool, huh?

ahh, but would you do it for a 4 door?

Tempting... I need one, but don't see why I should spring for something that does the same as me idling the car for a minute... It claims to do a few things... the speed warning sounds useful. how accurate are the timing modes? and for distance, does it indicate when the distance is over? I'd like to try the 1/4m in the middle of nowhere (literally - no people, no cars, good visibility), but don't want to go any further than I have to. Also, how hard was the install? just a few splices, or was it a little more nasty? Thanks nK

...moonlighting? I thought the batmobile was _black_

and oops - pi x D, pi is constant. and 55% means that my 205/55R16's are smaller than 235/55R16 wheels.... !?!?!? then again, you are right that its *not* 55mm, so, umm, yeah.

how much different is the total rolling radius (is anyone counting these)... 16in x 55 mm sidewall = 16 * 2.54 + 5.5 + 5.5 = 51.14 Diameter 17in x 40 mm sidewall = 17 * 2.54 + 4 + 4 = 51.18 Diameter 18in x 30mm sidewall = 18 x 2.54 + 7 = 52.72 Diameter circumference = pi x D... work out the % diff by old circ. / new circ. These should all give you close enough to stock that your speedo will hardly be affected. does this all sound like high school maths all over again? and a smaller circumference will give you more acceleration, larger more top speed (if you could do it), same as a diff ratio will. Keep the same rolling radius... easier all round, no issues with scrubbing, no issues with speedo. BTW - my speedo is 6% out - as in it reads 94% of actual speed... with stock rims and rubber. --ebola

good idea. though this begs the question - did j-baby bed his brakes in properley? j-baby - try this (check via the search button... hint hint, newbie: Find a nice stretch of road, and apply the brakes as hard as possible without locking up from 100+ kph (110 is the legal limit) to about 10 kph. DON'T STOP - just brake hard. make sure you release before repeat it a few times...

From what I gather... you can replace the diff centre (shortnose R200... whatever that means). this won't change the ratio, and is what I would reccomend. Except get an aftermarket mech 1.5 way... I THINK that you could swap in/out a whole diff. (but I'm not sure... and the rear driveshafts might be different).

Sheesh, do I have to spell out everything... yes, you can use it. you can set the load points however you like, but they will not be adjustable. which means that for the money, you could wire up some resistors to give the same effect (and clamp at 2.5v), or you could get an adjustable controller.... so yes, you can use it - but it will be non adjustable. Honestly, I'd just wire in a switch (G-sensor or resistor), and use that. why spend $80 for what an $8 part will do, and you will still have to splice your own wires.

Episode 1 Episode 2 Episode 3 Episode 4 Episode 5 Episode 6