ebola

Well, how about a weight comparison then? RB20 RB25 RB26 RB30 (all cast iron sixes) VH41 LS1 (both alloy) also, wouldn't a V8 be better for weight distribution (shorter motor)... with more cubes... I still think the hardest thing would be bolting the engine to the gearbox... any thoughts on that?

Now THATS a boat... congratulations. I apologise for including you in a blanket statement... I just believe that the majority of 4wd owners have the wrong car for their purpose.

NA_R33 has done a nissan v8 --> R33 (in the NA performance thread - even though its now supercharged). I'd love too as well, one day (ha ha ha). But I wouldn't bother unless it was alloy (4wd already is too front heavy) LS1 or vh41 (or whatever) - I seem to recall that sump adapters can be troublesome... EDIT (for post below) - I'd like to stay 'nissan' in the 'line - and the nissan v8 isn't alloy (that I know of). EDIT2: both the LS1 and VH41 are alloy block & alloy head... as 10 minutes of google time will tell you.

mind reader

uh huh. How much does khunjeng's boat weigh? considering a magna is more than up to the task of a 1500 kg car + a car trailer. remembering that a car is a sprung load... oh - this was a TM 2.6L carby manual runaround that existed during my uni days. As for the rest of the rant, I'll spare you all...

? abs ?

Yeah, a clutch slipping is normal. but only when you have your foot on the pedal to reduce plate pressure. It kinda helps with changing gears, you know. are you dropping the clutch? once in the wet with attesa off I dropped it into 3rd (@50 kph). Didn't know why everything was different (engine revs going up, no wheelspin) for a few seconds... and then panic mode. Either way, it sounds to me like you need a new clutch - one that suits your style of driving. how old is the clutch? It could just be getting a little old and worn. I would have thought it could handle the power. oh - and the 1 -> 2 shift is usually the hardest shift. slowest speed and biggest ratio gap.

1000 CFM at 2psi. fairly restrictive warranty. I could see it helping - if you have a 1.6L N/A econobox. A little more torque off the mark. maybe it would help on a 1.8.... how much air does your engine suck at 2krpm? 3? 7? waste of time on an engine that develops any sort of decent power, and as soon as you are moving, well, there is that extra load. don't forget electrical load is turned into mechanical resistence in the altenator. Not saying I wouldn't buy one - I just don't happen to have an EFI 1.6 shopping trolley. EDIT: spelling

Development - I wish. Better with ideas than execution, like so many people in life. The only reading I got was 30 mA - I should have been doing it with a printout of that article next to me. The package was neater than I thought. I should have know to expect something more like a package and less like I do things in a production car. I was a little concerned to find that the abs seems to want the G-sensor output as well. pulled the plug, and, well, abs light went on. A little dodgy to me - and it puts the risk factor back up. How hard is it to get a hold of a set of (full - large and small, male & female) plugs, so that I can interface b/n the computer and sensors and not risk stupid slips with my precious car? for that matter duncan, how does your (professional) unit interface - does it use plugs, or is it a case of wire and solder. I'll check the fs thread again tomorrow. not tonight. I think I'll wire up a DPDT switch into the 10K pot circuit for now, and go back to the drawing board. ======================================== related issue - now that I have found that the G-sensors are needed for ABS, I don't want to disable the attesa that way anymore. There is the tried and true method of a switch inline with the engine bay fuse (pulled it for drifting - attesa only), but you have to stop the car for that. Has anyone considered putting a switch inline with the solenoid for the attesa pump? The theory being that you won't have to come to a complete stop to turn it back on. Thanks again. I am sure that most of my ideas will have already been 'had' (and chucked out), but there are some odd ones too, that just might work. or at least I think (and hope) so. nK

second rate. last month an electric car was slashdotted that had real potential. its premise - leverage laptop batteries for "free" R&D. was pretty good. except for the fact that it seems not a month goes by and there is another battery recall...

why not? you could use a real time linix, with a garunteed 35 ns interrupt time... I don't know of any other way to actually generate the correct signal AT THE CORRECT TIME. How fast and how accurate are the signals from an ECU, when compared to a laptop? The overhead of an operating system would take the idea out. You could get flash drives & make a solid state laptop, so bring on the bumps. I have a self tuning (via knock and wideband O2 sensors), and I can run 30 psi of boost. If only I could do more than 4500 rpm, I'd cane you. some funny stuff, but in real life , not possible

When I did it, mark up was 15%... I was pretty angry, LOTE was marked up 20%. I wouldn't have dropped it if I know that. It got me into the uni course I wanted, cool, good enough.

sounds like synchros... 1 -> 2 is the hardest gearchange don't know why it is intermittent. my 2nd is pretty harsh to get into sometimes as well. I'm not gonna bother. My reccomendtation is to just shift more carefully into 2nd to avoid chipping teeth... heh - I'm an IT geek, not a mechanic. Good luck

remove it...

I've been wondering the same thing - about the motor, not the computer. when I stomp the brakes, the abs uses big, heavy pulses... not too concerned about response time, but a better action (smaller pulses). Perhaps I should do some research into how the R32 ABS works... I'm full of... Ideas. Some I even get to do. I thought a faster motor would do wonders for how it feels & handles. Match up signals & voltages, machine it in, test it out... theory & practice...

Hey - since I am guessing you will have the multimeter out, do you reckon you could get a mA reading from a G-sensor? I want to know what the minimum current required to consistently detect as an input is... and I don't want to fry the computer or cook the G-sensor voltage regulator Eventually, to override the lateral sensor at 1-4V by hand... and perhaps to figure out how to put on a little preload. Short spurts only (or when its really wet... I live in Melbourne) Thanks

How about my mates car: 6U9000BNR32006008 (Wish I could swap engines with him)... Thanks again

does it sit at its minimum value when cruising, and flicks under acceleration? what size are you tyres / rims ? I had that issue when I had to run around for a week with a space saver on. different rolling radius... Though from your diagnosis, I guess you know that your tyres are all equal. But the next step after rolling radius would have to be abs sensors (the reason rolling radius matters). rolling radius rolling radius I just wanna say rolling radius.. rolling radius rolls off the tongue. radius. rolling radius. Er.. um... The attesa cpu is very dererministic on how it treats the voltage values. I'm (eventually) going to wire up a semi - fixed option (much lower teck than duncans controller)... eventually... I still have to sand an ugly fibergalss patch... still.... The surging like you describe shouldn't be because of the G sensors, it wouldn't manifest itself that way. Rolling radius (ha - said it again) and abs sensors. And then hopefully someone who has actually tinkered with it (instead of reading alot) might have an answer. I'd get to it quick though. How much are new clutch packs? On the plus, when its wet, it absolutley rocks...

The difference doesn't matter - only has to be out by a few mm... and hey presto, instant 'wheelspin' If you hadn't have said it 'sometimes starts in 2wd mode', I would have have said unequal tyre sizes...

so it has balls and tits... isn't there a word for that? ...

I heard it was pretty slow last time as well... and since I am quite a beginner, I would hope for more than 5 runs. I've only managed to get to one drift practice day... but that was pretty good (vicdrift). So two weeks, and I hope to read some reviews... perhaps I'll be adding to the queue next time.

my car... no name... no gender... an extension of myself, yet with its own identity. Symbiote?

Isn't the remote resovoir the attesa resovior? Which feeds into a pump under the boot? Whereas R32 hicas is taken from the power steering pump... I dunno why it goes on. I fixed it by removing the warning light from behind the dash. No warning light, No problem... And I doubt your car would have a lock bar.

crap - 1 vote(s) in poll.... perhaps if you turned "all the time" into an option instead of a title.....

Cos I spend my lunh hour (and a half) on the internet...