ebola

I guess you could put the water pump out of one of those older cars into the r33 and use it as a power steering pump... it would be a bugger to fit, though.

if the chips are in the path of the wiper blades.... you will need to replace or repair it. if the chips are not in the path of the wiper blades, just get the chips repaired. Call around some windscreen shops. ask google...

The diff ratio in the gts4 is unique (across the r32 range). How do aftermarket mechanical diffs comapare on price? Also, I think you can change the ratio of a diff fairly simply... but I could be wrong. keep us posted on what you do. I for one would like some options when my diff finally goes...

Cheaper than hitting the car in front of you. go look up a product catalog. learn to use googe. its a search engine (hmm, speaking of such...) one company. This is not an endorsement. This is an example.

There was a thread on overheating / radiators / cooling system issues that was active a little while ago. If you still have overheating problems, perhaps you should dig it up. Synopsis seems to be a high swirl pot will help (and remove any air traps, etc)... good luck. And on the hicas, try unplugging the ecu and taking it for a fang somewhere you can. The hicas should disable itself automatically, and you will have an indication (and no power steering for the duration of the test) of how much the active hicas works. When disabled, it should lock itself straight (If not, there are enough people who should know who have replied to this thread).

Try gtst M-spec... the rotors are M-spec, so the calipers would be too.... if you want to upgrade to gtr brakes... you are gonna need more than just the calipers.

An engine dampner can't possibly reduce handling in the way that you describe. think about it - engines produce torque. The same amount of force that the engine produces at the flywheel is exerted at all the engine mounting points. an 'engine damper' (by which I take to mean a shock absorber onto the block) gives a lateral mounting point to counter the torque on the rest of the engine mounts. It stops the engine from being able to twist so far on its mounts. thats all. better mounting. I once broke an brake vaccuum line because of how far the block moved. But there is something to be said for east-west engines... the torque is generated in the same plane as it is transmitted. Umm, thats about as simple as I can get it...

? eh gtr / gts4 both have front diffs and front driveshafts. which makes the all wheel drive (at time), or rear wheel drive (at times). gtst is rwd only. focus the question, buddy. "are cows brown?"... sometimes.

Minimum size: 16mm... they are 18m from the factory. the DBA catalog has the correct sizes. it seems that some workshops have 18mm listed as the minimum size instead of initial size... the R32 gts and the gts4 both have 16in wheels... but I don't know about clearance. When you ask 'will gtr rotors fit', the short answer is no. Use (new) gtst M-spec rotors, as that is the braking setup that the gts-4 uses. the rotors / calipers are a different size on a gtr.

I won't take any car I own onto a beach. Salt, you see, does terrible things to metal. Australian cars also have drasticly different design requirements when compared to many countries. Also, our car market is regulated (so prices are higher across the board) to protect the local hoon market. Expensive for a reason, not just consumer blindness. Would you take 15k for the boat?

My Machine... HNR32-008222 Thanks

I've thought about the possibility or re-directing the oil back into the engine (sump return)... would stop the sump from running dry. I read somewhere the fables gibson gtr's did this. Of course, this means that fuel gets into the oil (right?), and regular oil changes will be needed... I don't know if its a good idea for a street car, but on the track, you could do it (put a tap into it). blow by is mostly caused because the piston rings arn't a perfect seal (and when they do, the engine siezes), right? So less boost (less cylinder pressure) would help. baffle plates help prevent oil starvation (air near the pickup), so I understand with my highly practical theoretical background... bigger sump means more oil reserve (less % of oil for same abount of blow by & oil burn). umm, yeah. ebola

I must need my eyes checked... 'cos Baz is right... I think I'll retire and just watch the thread...

here

okay.... cold fuel will make no difference to power. There isn't that much thermal expansion... cold air intake = slightly more air into the cyl. better intake = more air in. better exhaust = more air out, so slightly better manifold vaccuum, so more air in. ever wondered why methanol is used on drag cars? as a fuel, its not the best. It does, however, have a high oxygen content...

Turns over faster than usual? cast block.... alloy head. Sound like expensive compression issues to me - as in a warped head. compression test... of course, the igniters do get pretty hot, so its probably worth the time to pull a cupld of plugs and check for firing. Also, in the mean time, someone with more of an idea may reply... I still say warped head. how overheated was it?

so by having colder fuel, you get more fuel into the cylinder, and its only a matter of pumping in enough air, right.... oh wait - its the other way around. I thought that fuel temperature made a difference that is mathematically equal to zero.

I just did $800 worth of damage to my suspension at about 20 kph... due to nothing more than aquaplaning, and not reacting quick enough... denial... 1/2 a turn of the wheel, and I probably wouldn't even have had damage. It only takes a small mistake to unsettle the car. at 150kph... there is no margin for mistakes. losing concentration for 1/10 of a second is all it takes. A bump, a dip, a off camber corner, a small amount of slide... And the fact that the car was possibly racing another... or perhaps he was trying to impress his passenger. It doesn't have to major. just unexpected.

Oops - 4 door is longer... don't have the specs on the wheelbase (makes sense)... in which case..... GT-R

minor thread hijack alert What about the gts4... since its mostly gtr gear, does that include a mechanical diff (its a different ratio to both the gtr and the gtst), or a viscous? I have read both... And with my vast amount of drift experience, I can say.... I dunno. I think its viscous - 90% sure. oh - and you can't shim a viscous diff (right?).

under the central bottom right hand bolt.... EDIT: Guess not. one day... I still want my questions below answered... please... I think... and because I really don't know, couldn't it be fixed? unfixable? weaker (how much)? and could bracing help prevent it happening?

True. I was under the impression that the rev limiter was a fuel and ignition cut (same as the power balance option in the ecu's active test mode)... so the onlly increased risk to the engine over high rpm would be a balance change (no power stroke) - which would also decrease stress on the crank & c . --or is this just r32? It seems stupid to use a fuel & ignition cut on an early model, and a fule cut only on a later model...

at 120 kph, that is 9 seconds of travel time... at 160 kph, that is 7 seconds of travel time... How long after the chase is 'called off' do the cops slow down? stop? But as much as I dislike (traffic) police, the damn fool was doing a runner. It was his fault. Why is everyone afraid of taking responsibility for their own actions?

I am sure that many of those views would be people who already donate blood. And to those that don't Be responsible. There is a gts4 (targa tasmania stickers, drag battery indicator) with 'donate blood' stickers that turns up from time to time where I leave my precious car. Not only could it save someone life - it could save someone you know.

thanks... I used to vague, but now.... got the rb20det up to about 10k once... didn't sound happy. On the plus side, my girlfriend has never missed 4th again..