ebola

rotary valves on one of these. (just trying to up the ante. Don't care much for counter rotation, but more power al all rpm + a higher rev limit...) and although the how stuff works article implies it, I don't think there has been a working prototype of an internal combustion quasiturbine engine.

sure, as if skyline turbos arn't weak enough... how does a fuel & ignition cur cause damage, where an ignition cut doesn't? Ignoring the damage to the turbo / exhaust that a misfire system inevitibley causes... Why rev it to redline? you go quicker if 1) you have traction and 2) (average)engine power - which probably drops off in the high rpm. Driving like that will cause damage - if not to your car, then to some one elses. As long as there is good oil (and the engine is warm), I don't see it causing any immediate engine damage - but it sure causes alot more wear % tear (and not just the engine). Buy some good tyres. better traction, AND you won't want to waste them.

The S13 will probably be the cheapest choice. but if you are going to drag all that weight, I don't know... its just a *little* heavier than an rb26. If you want a heavy big power engine, then get a bigger car. My personal opinion is no. The Cefiro is popular because its a 4 door, so it has a long wheelbase (don't know about track width...). I like 4 doors... as for the R32, well, umm, yeah... but go a 4 door (same reason as the cefiro, only a little shorter). Apparently the sr20 gives a great balance, it being 4 cyl and alloy, not 6 and cast. and as for the GTR, well, it is front heavy, and still doesn't have the wheelbase of the larger cars. Then again, when you arn't drifting, just re-enable the attesa (yeah baby). My theory is that attesa will help to cancel any drift tendencies while on the street. All this can be found on this forum, and a hundred others. Now to indulge my fantasy, get a 4 door r32 gts4 and put in the rb26 (and set it up for drift). Personally, I'd go the gtr. can never have too many gtr's on the street.

Driver education can help people to realise just how lacking the hoon mentality is. When they realise their car cant stop on a dime, that human reflexes are slow, and that dead people can't be fixed. Driver education isn't just skills, isn't just HOW. Its also WHY. When you realise the consequences of what happens if....

lol rofl

Its is sad that it is always after the event that measures are taken. I fully support driver training. Every time I am behind the wheel I am reminded of why. And yes, sometimes it *is* me af fault. Is there any SAU could help? As in forum posts are hardly a political motivation (if it was a blog, however...). Perhaps SAU VIC should send in a petition for driver training to a few MP's. I know it sounds mercenary to use this event, but perhaps we can help stop it from happening again. I'd attend & put my signature down, anyway...

Yes, because car manufacturers use bolt cotton for their soft tops... wait, no they don't. Try and cut it (on a wreck). A window would be quicker. Guys like this are the reason I hate parking on the streets... Good work, Detective Justin... (cue voice over...) EDIT: spelling

from the r33 rb30 thread, I am sure that you still have to weld up oil galleries and so on. I'll go and have a check. It can be done, but its alot of work - and since the bore is so much smaller (as you say), I find it doubtful the gasket would fit properley. Get the real rb20 gasket. cheaper than having to buy it anyway when the rb30 gasket blows out, and you have to pull the head off.... again.... for the same problem. Oh - and about SHODAN: part the first part the second

Interesting to see different views.... Lets be straight - I am pro Israel. But I'm not blind. --> Deleted: Large political section. Summary - Israels over response to terrorist attacks, out media is very anti israel in this conflict (which is unusual). Note the media is NEVER unbiased at the best of times... Anyway, I do realise that australia has a large Lebanese (is that even how to spell it) population, and politics, religion and so forth aside, the government should be doing all they can to evacuate australian citizens. Once you become australian, you are an aussie, whether you are from greece, italy, lebanon, russia, etc... So australia hires a bus and charters a boat. big deal. Why can't australia make a deal with the UK about their warship? or the us - since little johnny is so intent on becoming little georgey... If there are 4000 Australians there, why is there just a 'bus'? Surely both sides care about civillian casualties... The more I know, the less I know. What a world.

I'm pretty sure there is a difference in the gaskets. as in, quite a difference. I mean, its not like you can just bolt on an rb20 head to an rb30 block.

Economy? is this equivalent to injector_duty_cycle / speed? because you could express in litres / kM (instantaneous)... looks cool, by the way.

Step 1: DON"T DRIVE THE CAR. Step 2: Trailer it to a mechanic, and tell him the issue. Hicas provides about 2 degrees MAX. Think how far the front wheels are turning - do you really think you could even DRIVE a car is the rear wheels where turned on that angle. also, if the rear wheels were turned as well, you would be 'crab walking' down the road - it'd look like drift. the reason the hicas light goes on is because you have driven so far without turning the wheel back to straight. unless you are going around a roundabout about 100 times, not likley. This issue causes to to drive with the wheels 'turned' Seriously, it sounds like your steering rack is stuffed. I'm not kidding about the don't drive it bit. it it happens at 80k, what happens when whatever is wrong FINISHES breaking... hello wall, hello oncoming traffic, hello hospital, and pray you havn't killed someone. How much is your life wort? or someone elses? Heck, even the cost of fixing it is cheper than when you crash the car. reply with what the problem was when you get it fixted.

Yup. As has been said, go through your contract. If you don't have an eye for detail, for find the most anal friend you have and get them to help. And go to the cops. Don't post an address publicly. It may not help legal proceedings (if there ever are any), and probably open you up to litigation. Of course, I'm not a lawyer. still, go over the contract, be technical. If you didn't get the car, HE broke contract... ...not to mention, he is an idiot. Whether or not he did it, what an idiot. see if you can get a hold of (or make sure the servo doesn't destroy) the tape of the incident, even if you can't see anything. find every receipt, save every email. Its not every day that you get to say goodbye to.... what, on the order of 10K? to much to lose because of an idiot like that

err... I can find the subscribe link... just not the unsubscribe link. I know you can unsubscribe from the 'view subscriptions' link, but it takes sooooo long to look through the myriads of subscriptions I have (And I'd hate to be an admin... you'd never find it) to check one box and click 'unsubscribe'. Should the 'subscribe' link the the thread options drop down change to unsubscribe, or should the error be a 'change subscription type', or even just a 'you are already subscribed - Unsubscribe?' button? nK

Space saver on the rear - it does 100 (freeway) - 110 (oops - freeway) no problem. It doesn't like corners much. And I had to keep attesa disabled. I guess on the front, it would be simpler (in a straight line) - no uneven torque distribution. I still wouldn't go hard at all though. too unbalanced.

I thought that the law was you couldn't be more than 5 metres away from your car if it was still running... or was this SA?... or my imagination... I guess its like speeding. Its not illegal to have a car that does 180 kph... its just illegal to take it there on public streets.

I would tell that since its been so long, you don't believe that they had the work done. I'd pay it, but ONLY when they procide to you ORIGINAL documents to proce that the work has been done. No proof the work has been done, no need to pay. Yeah - and get management involved too... make sure you take up LOTS of their time. Make sure they are aware that you have a problem. Managers are usually busy (believe it or not), and their time is valuable. Take the time to make your position crystal clear. Also, find out what the law is. I doubt they would take you to court (small claims, I guess), but I'm not a lawyer. Are they allowed to bill you 1 year afterwards? I think if you called the ACCC you might be able to get some legal advice. Keep us posted (posted, get it...)

The Arcade looks interesting... Except for the status message: Playing disabled for this group I'll presume that this has been restricted to paying members. Nonetheless, There should be a message saying that I have to depart from my hard earned (real) cash to use the games in the arcade. Cool.

Forgive me for getting the wrong impression. Understandable (I think), but wrong nonetheless. It "supercharges" the electronics. Looks like an earthing kit with some sort of ballast(capacitor?).. Um.. an expensive earthing kit. I don't see how this could have an effect on boost (unless your plugs are dead to begin with - and even then...) So, sorry I was wrong, but I still say its a rip off. you could DIY it pretty easy - though I wouldn't really like to think about what a capacitor would do to voltages and power (electric - real and 'imaginary') when the spark plugs are firing. I guess it wont kill the car... and if you DIY, you can always unDIY... **fool spamming up the topic, out

Theory is no problem. Theory is easy... its practice that I am interested in... care of wikipaedia: kW = (Nm * rpm) / 9549 (k constant) I just hadn't thought that ramp rate / engine load would make such a large difference. Then again, I geuss the stock rb20 turbo runs out of huff pretty quickly (like around 3.5k rpm) when compared to a large aftermarket turbo. So power would be the same, but torque up by ~1.3 x (3rd gear ratio). cool keeping with the idea is the original question (3rd or 4th gear), would there be any difference in transmission loss b/n the gears? or is 20% squishy enough not to care?

So there is a difference in output between the gears. I'll put this down to load (ramp rate)... same way that full boost in first happens about the same time as the rev limiter. Load is important to turbo cars... Theoretically, shouldn't the kW be the same, because it will register as more torque and less speed? and also, a lower gear with a higher ramp rate ('magically' matched, or course) should produce the same load on the engine, so the same amount of kW...

for ~600 you can run at 2psi... on a small engine. Think about it - they run on 12V DC... I did a fair bit or research on them - for my magna (when I had it). It it was $200 I might have considered it (and it still would probably have been a waste of money). If you really want, I could share it. Just don't expect me to be nice about it. You have a turbo charged car. Why get 1/4 kw for the first 1000 rpm in return for blocking the air intake when the turbo spools? spend the money on something that improve your car

What the mechanic did is fine on an R32... R33/34 - consider the equivalent of slipping the clutch for the entire dyno run. take a poke through the forums, have a search and I am sure that there will be a technical thread about it . Understand WHY it is not a good idea (its not...). Its not similar. You won't damage the R32 like that.

use the search button. look through active threads. and spend a hour or two to read this thread, which probably has all the answers you want, and more.

lets try again... how much does an s15 weigh? how much does his r33 (I presume) weigh? how much power does an sr20det produce? how much power does an rb25det produce? You said you recomended 'keep the rb25 box'... There are people who have had no problems with lots of power through an s15 6 speed. Lucky them, they are a minority. And the rb25 can put out more than an sr20, if only because of 500 extra cc's. This thread was interesting, but the point was made long ago. Fit or not, it would be an expensive excercies in pointlessnes.