ebola

I saw a link to this somewhere on the forums before, and though 'hey - I can do that'. Of course, I havn't yet... but I still want to.

There are decent traffic cops around. I met one. Once. And I still got a fine. Full fine, no dropping 2 km to put me back to the last bracket. I was young and stupid - but it still wasn't unsafe. Too much power in police hands. Pretty steep 1st penaly for a pretty loose definition of 'hoon'. Chirp the tyres, 80 by the time you reach the other side of the intersection, and I lose my 'hoon' car (any imported car MUST be a hoon car) to a power trippin copper. I don't mind police... Its just the ones on traffic duty... The laws make some sense - they are just not balanced, and its the lack of balance that concernes me. Perhaps one day I'll meet a balanced copper, and thank our wise and benevolent government for their vision. ------------------------------------- Its all Crimespeak. Unthankfulness and Crimespeak. Long live Big Brother, and victory over the Enemy 1984

I have to slouch because if I sit upright, my head hits the roof... without the added height of a helmet. On long drives, I sit more upright... and my hair brushes the roof. most uncomfortable. Took me about a month to get used to slouching with the seat back, figuring out where I wanted the seat, etc, when I first got the car. And the sunroof was a joke - unless you don't mind having your head on a 45 degree angle, that is. You could always lower the car - that would make the seats lower...

open the sunroof? EDIT: Who needs a helmet to have their head brushing the top of the car... most uncomfortable...

...pics...

I have read the autospeed article - which is how I knew it was powered from an 8v source. Thanks though, mazgtr. I don't see how the broad minded personch packs would wear out if there is no slip (though there would be in the snow, which is why I had the idea). I guess when turning there would be a difference, though. Duncan's attesa controller appears to be the same solution as the autospeed article (op-amp based), but controlled by a microcontroller (with a few extras thrown in as well). What I was thinking of was not just a variable resistor in line with the sensors, but replacing the sensor output alltogether (to begin with), and then (If can be bothered pulling my car apart) seeing if I can give a 'voltage preload'. Though as has been pointed out, this would be pretty hard on the clutch packs (Is the attesa hydraulic pump able to stand long periods, as it wasn't designed for it). I'll upload a circuit diagram when a) it works, or b) it smokes. Thanks for the help though. nK nicholas Krul

Nasty... are you sure it wasn't a Hick gq patrol. And it wan't even a public holiday....

Hi all. Now, its not too hard to dig up how the attesa computer uses the output from the G-sensors in the middle of the car. I want to know how many mA the voltage sensors operate at (or the G-sensors output). I want to grab a coupe of resistors and a potentiometer to wire up my own. 80 mA from an 8V source is easy, Its just with my track record, I don't want to guess... can anyone smell ozone? I know there is an electronic controller (Duncan's) on the forums, and it looks great... Its just not quite what I am after. It does reduction of the lateral sensor only, and I want to be able to put a preload (even if its static) on the longitudinal sensor (eg - constant 10kg front torque split). not fancy, but fun... its about time I made some modification to my car.

umm... with 1 space saver on the back (slightly smaller rolling diameter), zero throttle means 10 kg plate pressure, touching the throttle at all means 50 kg plate pressure. I presume that any wheelspin under throttle puts full torque to the front (I think a few dirt roads have helped me come to this conclusion). Since it was absolutley pouring, I was having immense fun. But think about what an unequal tyre radius is doing once you are moving... the smaller tyres will be applying a braking force through the transmission, or the larger ones will be spinning. Or your clutch packs will be slipping, which is a little worse than tyre wear on a track day. On a side note, how many mA do the G-sensors output? ...wanna try my own resistor based mod first...

I'm learning new stuff all the time. Just how is N2O 'forced induction'? Please explain (cos I dont think it is, at any rate) now, since I posted: on the topic of kW/L, shouldn't the old s2k get wheeled out - you can make (almost) 100 kW/L, all you need is 11:1 and a 9k redline. Ow. But $$$ can achieve anything - just look at F1. There are a few performance tricks you can use (which I have only read about - mostly from here). Are you interested in power at the wheels, or at the flywheel?. In my book, its whats turning the wheels that counts. And of course, the weight of the car counts in different ways. As an aside, although its NOT NA, you could consider a fixed displacement supercharger. Should be cheper than a big power NA, feel good, its just not purist.

Might I ask why you are buying an auto if you are going to turn it into a drift car? I know there is a thread about auto -> manual, but wouldn't it be easier to start with one instead? Anyway, good luck with it all... I'm trying to get into drift too... one day I'll even attend an event (vicdrift). Its gonna be interesting... no mods at all (not even an lsd)... From my limited knowledge, I'd suggest that suspension (not counting the auto -> manual) might need a bit of priority... and I don't just mean spring rates. And if you need a helmet, the regs will probably stipulate full body cotton(or other natural fibre) as well. Good luck. EDIT: this thread is new, and will be useful... the search button will be userful as well... and me doing research BEFORE posting would be cool too. Seriously though, search.

Cool. More people... I've found magnas to be surprisingly quick (6 cyl only - forget the 4cyl). For a passenger car... Welcome to Australia.... Welcome to skylines. You implied you like tinkering. Australia, Japan and New Zealand for skylines... paradise. Excpt for the epa...

What do you mean? If you mean that if you change at 4k rpm, that the higher the destination gear, the lower the rpm when engaging? AFAIK, all factory cars are like that. Sure, you wanna be able to boot it at the lights. But you don't want 4.5k on the dial at 100kph. gearbox ratios are set out 'symetrically' in race cars (eg - supercar V8's) to maximise engine acceleration potential.

Developer / Production Support for a life insurance company. Working on St. Kilda road... just out of reach of the city centre... its killing me. Did uni in Adelaide. I'm not old enough to fill 2 pages with lmy life story... well, not as bullet points, anyway... ? nK

Silly me - here I was thinking that the rev limit is 7.5k (and its not cutting in at 7). Though when my girlfiriend missed 4th (and found 2nd) It made about 9 (not happily, but it did). jokes and insults aside, however, the rb20 is perfectly happy to rev like that. If you are worried, consider oil control measures, as this is the weak point of the rb series...

He said it already has a performance exhaust on it... so any gain would be minimal (surley). Perhaps getting some cams would help... provided you don't mind revs, that is. Get a job when you finish uni and get a turbo (like I did). Till then, save your money, and enjoy your lightweight NA car

I have to keep shifting back from 5th to 4th at 60... (Bad habit not helped by my car.) not labouring the engine give fuel economy. so at 60, 5th down hill, 4th on the flat (rb20 for me), and 2nd to go round corners.

I'm looking at a diff upgrade (lsd rear), but I figure its worth thinking about ratios as well - especially since I take the car interstate fairly regularly. I have a gts4. I gather than stagea rear diff would be fine, but what about the front diff? Is it as easy as the rear? Is there even a difference b/n the fron and rear diffs?

For welding, where a concentration of energy is required, this would be perfect. What he has done is make allotropic water (cue mad scientist laugh). The article makes no mention about the amount of electricity required to 'crack' the water in the first place, nor how long it takes. Always a sceptic. However, if it really is more stable than H2 (and easier to store and use), it could really be what the article says. Hook it up to hydro / geothermal to drive the cracking process.... it could be cool. ** I still vote ethanol

I really don't get why you would want to remove anything but the fuse. You won't damage anything as a direct consequence (drifting into a wall at 90k however, may cause minor panel damage...) So you can pull the fuse (hint: wire in a switch), have fun drifting in RWD, and drive home in 4wd (still first off at the lights if you so require, and you can corner faster). And it takes out the abs as well, which I _guess_ would help with drifting. I plan of drifting one day, and I will be doing the above (probably including the bit about wall too). I just with I had 250 awkw (well, rwkw for drift) I just don't get it. If you were a hardcore drifter (which you say you arn't, just that you woud like to go... as would I), perhaps it would be worth it. In which case you would have as much weight out of the front as possible (next suggestion - gtst with sr20. Or Cefiro with sr20 - there is one for sale on the forum at the moment) I'm just asking is it worth the effort, especailly when you are starting out and likley won't notice anytning.

nice avatar, kid drifting his bike....... but really, if you are *not* after power, why complain at the lack of it? hmm, get a stagea. auto, rb25det, volvo looks with a gtr grip - auto.

Wiki is your friend. The miller cycle is an interesting concept, and one that will penalise you heavily in the low rpm region when you have a turbo. does your engine have vvt? if not, don't worry. just set the cams, lose all low end power (sounds like my rb20), and you should have better on boost performance. Aside from from vvt management, there should be no visible difference to the ecu. It doesn't know, and doesn't need to know about the inlet stroke - only how much air is in the piston(via the AFM) If you have VVT, I can post some thoughts up. just remember, this is theory. I hope its solid. EDIT: Don't trust the 'lower the compression ratio' line of thought. The way it does this is to force air out of the piston. so, yes, the compression is lower - because you have less air in the piston. think about it. also, it makes the compression ratio vary (don't know how much) according to the amount of boost. It would be great for track cars, I suppose, they run at full boost as much as possible on the track. I wonder how much difference 2 bar would make?...

So we shouldn't use a renewable natural resource which can come from ANY GRAIN CROP because current supplies couldn't handle it if everyone in the world changed to use it, and instead should continue to use a limited supply fossil fuel of which the supply is not garunteed because the oil companies like it or something like that... EDIT: offtopic. I'll leave my post (mostly cos I wrote it). A good question would be, out of ethanol and LPG, which one has a higher 'calorific value' - or enigy density.

"didn't move" or "didn't have one" park the car. Neutral. park brake on. make sure the "up" is NOT in. press the "down". button. you will hear it. It also goes down at 80 and up at 50? 60? If nothing, is the moveable front spoiler still there, or just a front bar lip. Sell the car.

I concur. Ethanol can come from many sources - just ask the AWB... Even if if comes from brazil, it gets my vote...