SKY 34

what sofware ddi you guys used to make all of those?

sunline racing SLR

wonder what headlight he's gonna use for that kit, looked damn big

the unit itself cost abt $800+ btw, otherwise everyone would have done it already...

SLR sunline racing.. have a look, they make whole wide body for GTT there's do luck.. order them off SIngapore, closest they are asking about $2.5k I think just for fenders.. watch using JSAI pm me if you interested

I reckon they look ugly on 34s

I think that's the tommy kaira kit

side lips?

GT30/40 should be enough, its been done with low mount manifold as well, if your friend wants to be a sleeper...this setup will suit your friend most since he wants to get cams upgrade. I use GT35R but a lot of timing have to be taken out, have lots of lag and no cams upgrade, as the minimum tune possible is already around 300rwkw,, changing cams would slighylt increase power, and engine goes kapoof

hey nat, was at carousel as well, I didn't know which one are you

hi, just want to comment on this, my pfc used to "de-tune" itself after 4 months, this happened twice, I have to go back to load the tuning back. It sprogressive as well, slowly the knock values increases until the engine light keeps coming on, it got so bad at a point that the vehicle has to be towed, burning too rich, shooting out black smoke, won't even idle Might only be a defect on my pfc. but nayways I swapped to wolf. and so far no problem.

I tried thepower fc on my 34, for some reason it keeps reseting fuel map every 4 months or so, I heard couple of people having this problem as well.. then after I wanted more power requiring to remove my afm, pfc does not accommodate that... I ended up selling the power fc and buying v500. Luckily due to the Apexi bankruptcy thing I actually made money from selling the pfc lol~~ yes stock clutch will handle just fine, I'm running 412rwhp atm with stock clutch and stock break systems, depends on the condition of the clutch of the base car I guess, I probably happened to get a good one. went to AHG, breaking and handling is fine, just the normal tail snakey as boost kicks in. The only break problem I ever encounter was during a 3 hours cruise in 40 degrees temperature where the pads turn to sponge. but then the rest of the people also had the same problem

I disagree with the use of AFM and PFC , change of clutch and brake pads. Run MAP system with a better ECU, don't use pfc. Also stock clutch will be able to handle 300rwkw just fine, breaks will perform well enough again, let it worn before you change. Need a new fuel pump, boost gauge, intake temp sensor, full exhaust.

I reckon it depends on how you drive it ^^ yeah 300rwkw sounds good but its pretty dangerous to drive on fr, esp on wet roads, even when launching straight you'll do a snakey

can I have more pics for the rear panel please? thanks if possible please stick a ruler on both the rear and front fenders width. cheers

bro, i've got cf bonet for gtt, selling $700 new condition.. i have series 1 bumper as well...

I got yellow stickered 3 times for cf bonets... lol.. if you are still interested, I'll sell you mine~~

don't see how guard rolling is going to help if the rims is already sitting outside the fenders, you'll probably need guard flaring

doupt it cuts fuel, otherwise there won't be flames shooting out at all...I don't get how you'll have high knocks as well? I think the Bee*R randomly cuts spark from one of the 6 cylinders? there's only 3 wires going out of the Bee*R unit if I remember correctly... without spark the fuel won't ignite at all, ignition by compresion alone requires extremely high comp ratio. so no combustion for particular cylinder, knock is more of sporadic combustion, one main flame and smaller pockets of flame as pistons move up... + I dun think it has the function of antilag at launch, looks like it with flame shooting, but because its only 1 cylinder and there's no spark at all, antilag is like retarding the timing so that some fuel exits the exhaust from all the cylinders to put more cha cha in the car. The main damage is probably to the manifold and exhaust turbine. The main function is to eliminate fuel cut at red line, so the vehicle does not loose power as vehicle stays in red line.

b man, the Bee*R rev limiter does not mean fuel cut as vehicle reached certain RPM the rev limiter is a device used to cut sparks at pre-set condition, so you'll have fuel going through the exhaust valves and igniting in manifold, making flames shoot out of exhaust. there are two conditions that can be chosen, the rev and the launch I think.

hehe no worries mate, glad you like it. fited?

sorry mate, I can do $600+ delivery.. its going to be quite expensive, relatively big package

bump

I think he didn't say the hp he wanted~~maybe he's going for 800rwhp~~

ask fat john~~ 9470 2222