GTsauRus

R32 front cut was bought for the engine all parts have been removed from the shell no shell included included price $2500 Complete r33 gtr engine hks 275 cams and adjustable wheels inlet and exhaust removed but included turbos incomplete rear housings where used to make gibson n1 turbos engine was going strong but oil in coolant gearbox,clutch,radiator(repaired top tank) rear subframe complete hub to hub minus ets pump allstock pipes and recirc valves all brackets buckets of bolts front kframe and suspension and brakes drive shafts hubs and steering ,steering/hicas pump in pieces complete dash no vents steering wheel very worn .dash wiring loom intercooler front bar with reo air conditioner all parts heater core is no good engine bay electrics Ms Pod filters Do not want to sell separately take everything Moving soon

Ok that explaines why its reference pressure line is connected to the turbo side of the throttle body so it sees very little vacuum and higher boost than the manifold does. Thanks for the answer.

So is it a dampener or is it an fpr? searching found it called both It has a vacuum line just like the fpr except that the vacuum line connects to the turbo side of the throttle body.

OOps didnt read your name this is what happened to the aus gtrs yes? Is the number on the left longer than the one on the right?

I complied my 89 gtr in 2005 there is no number stamped but i have an engraved plate there with the aus vin that starts with 6u9000 then my bnr32 number I stuck it there because theres not many places to fit a plate. Is that number the vin on your rego if so it was put there by the compliance people here in aus I also have an uncomplied 92 front cut that has no number stamped there cheers

my gtr ac was working but was not as good as it was 7 years ago when i got it converted to r134a soo took it to the auto sparky to test pressures all ok and pulling down to 8 deg in the air vent on the dash he said all seems good but hot days you would feel hot. realised not much air flow out of the vents even when the fan is on full noise. removed the glove box pulled out 3 screws from the blower and remove it, now you can reach into the right and feel the evaporater yep feels like its blocked with dirt! Used a 5mm air line with a 0.5mm jet in the end to spray water into the evaporater too clean it out [water drains out of the drain that goes out through the firewall] Now it has heaps of airflow and nice cold air. My gtr has 240000k on the clock

The primary lead is on the 12volt side the ht is the spark plug side im using the ht to set it because the primary side appears to give a setting advanced by 10 deg using my non nissan timing light . im running a nistune realtime ecu, i have not disconnected the tps but nistune always reads 20deg when idling around 950rpm so i assume if consult is reading 20deg then time it to 20deg. the nistune timing log is a constant 20deg. while idling.

I read on here it can make 40deg difference with the inductive loop the other way so i already tried it and with my timing light it is the same either way. does anyone know if the rb26 timing is 20deg when set at the ht instead of the primary loop?

the manual describes setting the ignition timing using a special timing light and connecting the inductive pickup to the primary coil wire that is looped at the back of the engine. I set it using this method but not using the special timing light it indicated 35 deg this is were the new half cut motor i have was set. Set it to 20 but after this got a low rpm flat spot and higher egts. Pulled the front 3 coils off and fitted ht leads to the plugs used number 1 ht for the timing light pickup and got 10deg so with my timing light there is a 10 deg difference between primary coil wire and the ht wire. So my q is is the correct timing at the ht 20deg

some r32 gtr earth locations

is the ecu still available if so what is the part number it will be like 23710-24u00 or similar i wud pay $150 if its r33

hi i had similar problems with my gtr the problem is if the voltage to the hicas computer in the boot drops too low it resets believing the power has gone off and back on the real way to prove this is check for the error codes flashing and there will be no errors because the computer believes it was a restart and not an error. firstly i followed all wiring then unplug and cleaned all conectors that lead to the ignition switch from the engine bay fuse box then the same for all wiring to the back of the car where the hicas computer is, this fixed the problem for 12 months then it returned. 1 Next i ran an 8g cable from the battery to the boot to a fused distro block and connected to the fuel pump relay to give it 14.4v instead of 10.5v this improves fuel pump performance and unloads the circuit that also supplies the hicas computer [all via the ignition switch and other fuses] 2 Next find the cable splice near the alternator for the regulator sense wire, disconnect it and run a wire to the positive battery terminal to bypass voltage drop between the the battery and the splice this makes the voltage at the battery 14.4 instead of 13.4, this is required if you use a superior calcium battery that will not charge to full capacity unless the battery terminal voltage is 14.4v Get a calcium battery its worth the extra dollars. 3 years later no hicas hiccups ever. 230kw atw and no longer leaning out on the dyno. [fuel pump voltage]

I have a motor just out of a stock as a rock r32 half cut so i got to transfer my blitz ebc hoses onto it and this is how its piped up. the hose that has the restrictor near the boost solenoid connects to the hard pipe that goes around the back of the head that feeds both actuators this hardpipe has a welded tee connected to a hose that goes to the bottom of the inlet plenum opposite number 6 inlet this hose also has a yellow band with you guessed it a restrictor. THe second hose at the solenoid connects to a second hardpipe that goes around the back of the head and connects to the bov recirc balance pipe between the turbo inlets so basically this is where the boost pressure bleeds back to. On my existing motor the tee under the plenum is blanked off and its plenum connection has a hose that goes to the ebc motor the second ebc motor hose connects to the hard pipe to the actuators and the second hard pipe is blanked off under the plenum so this setup does not bleed back to the turbo inlet. The hose that goes to the bov's comes from the manifold under the plenum that has the aac valve on it. Didnt know the second restrictor existed til now because my gtr always had the blitz ebc.

hi pm sent to you

hi got any pics of the zorst

hey mitch nice pics r u goin tomoz? Im headin down early Any one know what gates are open tomoz?/ best one to use. cheers Farsher

engine bay rear of coil packs one wire from the igniter loom under a small screw in the cam cover and 2 wires from the main loom on the last coil pack assembly 8mm bolt next to the radiator on the drivers side. wires go into loom 6mm bolt On the engine next to the fuel reg, wires go into engine loom 6mm bolt

Add to This Thread any Known location of a body Earth connection for an r32 gtr please dont reply unless you are adding a location It will be a reference for people who want to clean up earth connections on their gtr.[me included] engine bay behind battery on inner guard 6mm bolt with 3 cables 1 to battery 2 to engine mount rhs 3 smaller wire disappears into the wiring loom. passenger upper strut tower 6mm bolt wire goes to abs motor passenger strut tower down lower 6mm bolt copper braid goes nowhere on my car, its brocken off but apparently goes to the front turbo dump under a six mm bolt holding on the heat shield [not confirmed] dont know what purpose it serves boot inside below boot lock mech 6mm bolt small black wire goes into loom have to remove the rear boot lining to access inside passenger side near rear of inner guard 6mm bolt goes to a control box above wheel jack possibly for rear demister have to remove passenger side boot trim to access. that is all i have found and still remember accurately they all appear to be factory locations

hi got a pic of the fan? does it have any cracks in the plastic? will you post to the central coast? [hey that rhymes]

hi peter the trip economy calc is very close to tank refill value. I averaged 14l/100 going to work and running around the et calc is very close to 14 over a few log files. the autoreconnect works if the pda has not powered off but once it has powered off it will not reconnect unless I toggle the comm port or do a full restart of et. My current setup is power off after 1 minute on battery power my power is from cig socket so powers offwith ignition, et is on sd card. I leave the ipaq in the car at all times to run et. regards keith

I tried leaving reconnect for a couple of minutes injectors = 440 cylinder =6 Economy i am refering to is l/100 not trip l/100 probly best not to judge it until the tank fill comparison, just an observation i thought it would be lower than 11-12 on level road at 100kmh due to my previous trip calcs I just put beta3 on sd and tried reconnect but is not working, its better running from sd due to log file size,

hi peter The accuracy of economy l/100km may be a little out, at 100kmh it is displaying 11-12 l/100km on closed loop [displayed o2 so i can see closed loop fluctuations] I know from highway cycle i get 9.3 average so it seem to be reading a bit high. Reconnect I leave et running when i switch off, the pda is set to power off after 1 minute on battery, when i restart the engine and turn the pda on et is still running but wont reconnect unless i close and restart et or toggle the com port. I will give beta3 a test tomorrow keith

hi Peter All looks good the odometer reads the same as the distance in ET The run i did has 90kmh and back streets on even throttle at 90kmh the economy is reading around 9-10 which is what i get on hiway cycle so at first glance it looks good, I will get the pda mounted and do a tank comparison, the file upload is not working

ok im just about to go pick up my daughter so ill give it a run my pda isnt mounted so i wont be able to look at it on the run but ill log it.

hi peter i have an ipaq 2850 and plms cable with a null modem made out of 2 old pc com ports car is r32 gtr / stock ecu previous version i have used is v1.0.2 v1.3.3 has better response on the guages v1.3.3 I just had a disconnect with autoreconnect checked but it did not connnect until i setup com2 let it fail then setup com1 again. what needs to be selected for the new sensors to work? I can log a run and send you the file, post what you want selected. Keith