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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. Just trying to visualize/work out how I can do this sort of test on the car with the gear I have, as you can see in the video, nothing shows up til around 22-24psi.
  2. My BOV's are plumbed back. Leakage past the BOV just ends up back on the hot side of the motor. Total pressure remains the same and given the noises involved in pressuring the system, hard to hear if the BOV is unseating.
  3. It'll need a retune either way for the Cams. As an aside, how do you bench test BOVs?
  4. I got you, will put an order in tomorrrow.
  5. I've ordered the Haltech barometer.
  6. Wouldn't the wideband see it leaning out - and react accordingly?
  7. Yep, pretty much same as Haltech. Can "see" 21psi above atmospheric.
  8. I don't think it's anything new to tune beyond sensors, on the dyno, but I can understand why it's less than ideal. It was a last minute decision while we were there, but I should have pulled my finger out and bought the proper sensor afterwards.
  9. Yes, can log with Haltech, it will also flash the engine light. Also have a wideband so if it was lean it will know/flag/put it into engine protection and throw codes etc.
  10. New when I did the fuel system upgrades, but I have heard that when switching to e85 you should replace it after a few thousand k's as e85 tends to clean the fuel system out of shit. Can't hurt to grab one as a spare when it goes in.
  11. I've seen videos, but I've never personally fisted a pussy..
  12. No, it wont be that 100% certain the cat is fine.
  13. Dont want an additional gauge cluttering the interior. Will get map sensor then just use ECU manager to do some diag runs and review boost. Already have wideband.
  14. Why? Stock regulator is fine at this power was my understanding? 1000cc injectors and 460lph pump.
  15. Whiteline camber bolts on the way, have ,axed out strut tops at around -2.5 up front and wanted a little extra. This part pretty much fits all Nissan's http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA414 Get them cheaper on eBay. Picked up what I think is an S14 rear sway bar last night, certainly different to my rear sway bar. Sourcing some front end links now.
  16. Waiting on tuner to give me the price he can get the Haltech one, as he gets better prices. Otherwise, any issues with this? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151315040163?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Probs just grab the Haltech one n the end, but nothing wrong with having a backup plan.
  17. Is there anything special about the Haltech sensor that warrants 3x the price of any other universal sensor?
  18. No extra boost guage, not forking out the many dollars to get the Nismo MFD upgrade and don't like additional gauges. Am sourcing a map sensor now and will go to closed loop when it goes back in for cams and springs. Appreciate the feedback
  19. Sorry if I misunderstood? Haltech is the only Map sensor in the car, it controls a mac valve connected to both waste gate actuators. Not sure if I'm missing something else here?
  20. lol, deep breathes 1) Yes. 2) He said it's best to have the 3 bar sensor but that we can tune past it and see how it goes, I guess this is part of the answer. 3) No, but I'm certain the car would have only had the IAT sensor leak (small), if at all, as the response and power both on and off the dyno after the tune was solid. I only started checking for leaks as I felt the difference in the car. The big leak was the gasket between front turbo and TT pipe connection.
  21. Yep, It was tuned on the dyno at 24psi, on his gauge and using my onboard wideband as a cross reference. The anti lag is just a couple of tick boxes and were not turned on when it was tuned, it's also off now so it's not a factor. Wouldn't matter even if it was on as the launch control has nothing to do with what we're discussing here (wot performance) and the rally anti lag only fires between shifts after you lift off the throttle. What I'm talking about is how much power it's making/how hard you get pushed back into your seat, during full throttle stints. That doesn't feel consistent currently, but i cant figure out what the variables are. I thought it might have been purely IAT, as i have pods (shielded yes with cold feed from headlight and inner guard, but still not as well shielded as stock airbox) but the other night out and about for a big Chrysler show locally it was hit and miss with similar air temps.
  22. Could be, then again I was told the same thing - as well as I'm just used to the power - when I thought it wasn't right before and then found two boost leaks. Need to get it in the dyno me thinks
  23. When we did the pods/cooler it was happier to make more boost so was tuned a few pound beyond the onboard map limit. Similar to what race pace used to do when tuning beyond max flow of the standard AFMs. Done on the dyno of course. Anyway can get a sensor, not a big deal if seeing max boost is the absolute first step.
  24. Was holding off as the upcoming cam install meant I'd likely need less boost for my goal (500rwhp or so). Can bovs be intermittent​? Am i just clutching at straws there? Disconnecting boost control solenoid not gonna tell me much is it, other than actuators are fine to standard pressure (1 bar I think)
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