No Crust Racing

Any easy way to test them? Boost leak test doesn't help as any leakage stays in the intake so total pressure remains the same.

Sounds like you need to go back to Barstow...

Intermittent Performance 34R, -9s, e85, haltech etc etc. Approx 350rwkw at 24 or so psi. Have recently fixed 2 boost leaks (front turbo to TT pipe and IAT sensor on back of plazmaman cooler) but am finding that even after this the "punch" is intermittent, sometimes it's there/good, sometimes it's lacking that extra kick at WOT. Using onboard haltech map sensor so it stops telling me anything useful after 21psi. No faults being thrown, car has wideband and oil pressure kit also. I thought it might be intake air temps (pods with an enclosure), as it's been warmer here, but I've had the car feel great and not so great on 27 deg intake temps in the same driving session. Car is going in soon for cams and valve springs, but if there's anything else I can check, I'm all ears. I've boost leak tested the entire intake tract up to 40psi using a leak down tester. The difference feels like when I went from airbox and 21psi to pods, better cooler, and 24psi, which was about a 20kw/100Nm gain. What power are stock GTR bov's good for? Any point in me disconnecting the Mac solenoid for a test?

And this was its last outing... As you can see it's very unsettled, bouncing through corners and being nasty on tyres. The changes mad prior to that day were swaybars. If, after all the above changes, subframe, roll centre adjusters etc, it still sucks I might just go back to stock swaybar up front also like Josh at MCA recommended (picking up an S14 rear bar tonight).

Budget CA S13 Track Car Moving my build thread from NS over to hear as NS seems pretty dead these days. Had the car for quite a few years now, has sat dormant for the last 18mths because I bought my 34 and poured all my time and money into that Current mods/specs. 1989 CA18DET 5spd in secy two tone. 146ks on a stock and original bottom end fresh head gasket and ARP studs. Engine/Driveline GT2560/T28 BB on 17psi/18spi - 198rwkw 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with de-cat Greddy intercooler. Catch Can and Morosso Crankcase evac kit. Turbo Tech Boost Tap - The original and still the best. Adjustable Wastegate Actuator R33 BOV - plumbed back. Grex Oil Filter Relocation Kit BTR Oil Cooler Thermostat JJR Oil Cooler Apexi SAFC V2 Apexi SITC AEM Wideband Air Fuel Sensor and Gauge RX7 460cc Injectors. Surge Tank Setup Walbro 400lph lift pump, Walbro 255lph main pump. Aeroflow fittings and hose. Alloy Radiator "Custom" Semi Solid Engine Mounts. CA18DET Exhaust Cam on the intake side and Adjustable Cam Gears Xtreme HD Organic Clutch. S15 helical diff centre with original crown and pinion to retain better ratio - Solid bushes. Brakes Braided lines all round. S15 Front Calipers/R33 Rear calipers (no handbrake anymore) Ventilated and Slotted Rotors TRW Pads all round R32 GT-R Master Cylinder R33 Brake Booster DIY Brake ducts front and rear. Suspension BC BR Coilovers S15 Power Steering Rack GKtech high misalignment tie rod ends. Nagisa Auto roll centre adjusters Cusco castor arms. R32 FLCA's S15 RLCA's Front Strut Brace ISC Rear Camber Arms GKTech Rear Toe Arms. S14 subframe with reinforcement plates Solid subframe bushes. Whiteline adjustable front swaybar. R32 GTR rear swaybar. Other/Rice C-West Twin Blade Adustable rear spoiler – alloy mounts under boot skin for support. Dry Cell Mounted in Boot with Battery Isolater/Kill Switch cable up front + remote pull. Aftermarket Steering Wheel D1 Quick Release Hub Momo Gear Knob Momo Pedals Auto Guage Water Temp, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Guages Velo Podium FRP Race Seat with Velo Harness and side mounts. Custom Seat Frame, lowered for roof clearance. Pro Fab Half Cage (dealing with Brad was fun...) 17x8 and 17x9 Volk(Rays) Rims. Federal RS-R 235s R32 GT-R Grill Hektic body kit. Semi stripped interior, no AC etc. big dollar tow strap DIY Front Splitter Soon to be rear diffuser. Currently finishing off the front end suspension work/reassembly Getting some new front end links, changing out GTR rear swaybar for standard s14, car needs to go off to have some exhaust fab done (new hangers etc) then put it all back together and drive it for the first time in like 2 yrs... I pulled it off the road as the last out it was a realy handful to drive (with the new swaybars) and was torching the outside of the tyres. Full history/build is here. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=533091&st=0

Can that tool from Amazon be bought locally anywhere?

Can that tool from Amazon be bought locally anywhere?

And that's on an RB head? So that tool will work head on?

Pretty critical missing piece of info.. And does it fit RB heads would be the next one...

That's a head off the car though and talks about putting cushion under the valve... Also being an Evo I have no idea how recessed those valves are compared to 26. Can anyone else comment?

Valve Spring Compressor for RB26 - Head On My tuner doesn't have a suitable tool to put my valve springs in with the head on. Kelfords said this tool is the go - YA9140B - http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/blue_point_valve_spring_compressor_tool_ya9140b.htm I've also seen this version: http://www.fishpond.com.au/Homeware/Schley-Products-91400B-Univ-Valve-Spring-Compressor/9999065475933?utm_source=googleps&utm_medium=ps&utm_campaign=AU&gclid=Cj0KEQjw76jGBRDm1K-X_LnrmuEBEiQA8RXYZyoVyljO04nCnoXDOS1Pqk9navIpzlAgE6w5r3LkHtcaAj4X8P8HAQ Any other options out there before I pull the trigger and buy one?

It's like you didn't​ even read my post, just replied as fast as possible lol I'll copy paste the relevant slab of text again, plus will push my post count up #sickbro "Cheapest and fastest way to get the "look" would be just to paint the current caliper. If I'm gonna pull calipers off, I might as well see what cheapo upgrades are around. Same thing I do with every other mod. This is a middle ground, still cheap, no rush on caliper restoration as they are already off the car, and end up with better brakes as a bonus for minimal outlay." After I've sold my front setup the change over is minimal to me given i I get all new hardware (assuming rebuilt calipers and new rotors) and better brakes and who doesn't like that? Don't worry, I'm not gonna show up to the meets or track days and pretend I'm cool because i have Evo parts, it will be our secret. Edit: woops not to you Rob, you managed to sleaze that post in there while i was typing on the shitter

Will do Nah not seduced and nah not looking to fill the rim more, purely an exercise in cost effective options. Car has no trouble pulling up now and was able to do a good 5 hot laps at winton without issue (ferodo pads and 2 piece rotors) it was only when I did a couple 8 lap stints they got a bit hot and I ate into the rotor a little. It won't be tracked like that again, maybe a logic day or something, so I don't "need" bigger brakes. If I want red calipers anyway, and Evo calipers are not only cheap, but better than mine, nothing to lose by swapping given I can cover the cost selling my current ones and ed up with better calipers, bigger rotors, and will be fresh and red like I want. 35 brakes 3-5 times more exensive Wrong, but why would that matter anyway lol Cheapest and fastest way to get the "look" would be just to paint the current caliper. If I'm gonna pull calipers off, I might as well see what cheapo upgrades are around. Same thing I do with every other mod, which is why the Silvia has so many new parts everywhere - pull one thing off, replace/restore everything around it and don't do the labour again. This is a middle ground, still cheap, no rush on caliper restoration as they are already off the car, and end up with better brakes as a bonus for minimal outlay. Fitted splitter, rear spoiler, painted bonnet, guards, bumper, and boot lid, powdered coated wheels, changed hoses in engine bay, painted shit in engine bay, bought hard pipes and customised then painted for engine bay, bought fancy fasteners, radiator guide, etc etc, all for looks primarily lol Hardly the first time I've wanted to spend time or money to get the type of look I want. I know the Evo gang is too cool to care so I won't tell anyone you were here in this efames thread

Will just PM you direct next time

Found this table on the AlphaOmega site for anyone else - scroll right down like I should have. http://alphaomegaracing.com/p/119/c/73/Z33/ALPHA-OMEGA/Evo-350mm-Brembo-Front-Brake-Adapter-Kit-Version-3.html

Doesn't answer all questions and was relating to 33R, I wasn't sure if they are identical between the models. So the Evo 9 rotor is actually smaller diameter but thicker, is the benefit in the caliper itself being better then? I see they use an external hard line between sides. Are you saying rear is the same between GTR and Evo or rear is the same between all Evo models? I'm assuming adapter is needed for Evo X calipers and rotors, is it also needed for Evo 9 calipers and rotors (if there's any upgrade in that). I can see hat height is different, so assuming a bracket is needed. What's "efames"? Edit: Nevermind: https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=E-FAME and yes definitely in it for fame. I will cross post to Facebook later for more.

Evo calipers on 34R I don't like the gold colour of the standard calipers and as they are chipped and marked I had been considering painting them red. I was looking around for some pre-done ones for a nice easy swap and came across threads talking about Evo 7 - 10 calipers being better and using a bigger rotor - and given the price, might be a fairly neutral cost swap plus I can take my time freshening them up before they go on. Just trying to work out which calipers and rotors are the easiest fit as there seems to be some size differences and talk of adapters/drilling hubs etc. My car already has 2 piece rotors up front, but I'm happy to buy new ones if the rotor size is bigger on the Evo. Are the rears any different?

I was mainly using 4th and 5th, Different ratios so can't really compare. Pus I'm not as big a hoon as you

Really? that's way more than I expected? That would be about what I used?

Hah, that's awesome

Well seems my car is about on par with what everyone else is seeing so fair enough. Will just have to run 98 for the longer cruises. I'll just have to put a big fuel cell in the boot for some extra capacity lol

Didn't say it was bad, just wanted to know what others are seeing so I know if it's about right. I made the choice to run e85 for the advantages and can switch at any time. Cams will be no different, so pro's some con's and all good

I might have to do a 98 tank just to compare and so I know what my max range might be for any overnight cruises etc.

Fair enough, dem thirsty imports.

Yes and wideband, as mentioned I can just run on 98/any blend there of. Just interested in others e85 consumption numbers.