No Crust Racing

Do you mind if I ask how you found that chassis for sale and a ball park on what it cost? This is going to be awesome

Wow

I'll see if I can borrow one, no point buying a whole set for one job. 3/8" drive, sure, but not in double hex. Next door neighbour has all those sorts of rarely used items.

Cutting slots in an old bolt is a nifty idea, cheers. Regular tightenting procedure as in tighten to X, then tighten to Y then back off to 0 then tighten again? I thought that was to stretch the stock bolts. If the nut is what I'm using, what socket size/fitting is it?

PM'ing

I've read a number of threads on here regarding this, but there's some info missing. For safety, I'll be replacing the standard headstuds in my car with ARP studs as I'm planning on adding a bit more boost or going single (currently -9s, e85 and 335rwkw at 22psi). Gasket is stock and has not shown signs of issue. I've been advised that doing one at a time should be fine and wont unsettle the gasket and I've been reading this regarding install. http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/202-4207.pdf 1) Do I need to go and buy a thread chaser or is blowing out each hole with a compressor enough? 2) Any issue with me following the order as shown on that PDF? The first one being the middle? 3) Do any of the studs protrude into a water jacket and require sealant on an RB26? 4) There's mixed info regarding what torque to use given the standard head gasket has already been crushed and seated. Nissan spec torque or ARP torque? 5) This might seem like a stupid question, but in my last car the studs did not have separate nuts. That install guide says finger tight the studs into the block then finger tight the nut onto the stud then torque from there. Is torque applied to the assembled nut and stud via the nut or via the stud? Last car I did this on the torque was applied via the stud with a 10mm allen key fitting. Same here? Cheers

Fair point... also Evo 7 so no Mivec... hmm...

High comp motor will be helping a bit there. I thought they were past efficiency at that boost.

Not as responsive as I expected - no offense to you. Stock cams will help me, but no VCT will hinder me (RB26) so I can't see it coming on any earlier. Hmm.

Alright, I'm reading all of this and getting a little excited. I'm going to have on more play around with -9s and see what we can get (want more response, want a bit more excitement) and if that doesn't work will look at going single. Piggaz been in my ear so here I am. 7670 in 1.05 on an internally stock rb26, stock cams (with gears) and all the usual supporting mods. Yes or no? What power will it make and how responsive will it be. Has Haltech pro plug in, is flex fuel and runs mostly on e85 as it's a weekender.

You're dead to me

Going to go pods on the 34, was looking at pod shields but can't find anything that allows usage of the stock snorkel. Has anyone found/had one made? Alternatively, was looking at buying this and modifying it. How had would it be for me to cut a neat hole in that? I'd then stick a small rubber flange on the whole for the snorkel to sit on. http://www.jsai.com.au/index.php/online-store/nissan/r34-gtr/nissan-r34-gtr-cold-air-box-detail I did find this, but that's a GT-T and the opening looks kinda ugly. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424670-r34-gtt-air-intake-system-using-oem-snorkel/

I did find this, but that's a GT-T and the opening looks kinda ugly. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424670-r34-gtt-air-intake-system-using-oem-snorkel/

Going to go pods on the 34, was looking at pod shields but can't find anything that allows usage of the stock snorkel. Has anyone found/had one made? Alternatively, was looking at buying this and modifying it. How had would it be for me to cut a neat hole in that? I'd then stick a small rubber flange on the whole for the snorkel to sit on. http://www.jsai.com.au/index.php/online-store/nissan/r34-gtr/nissan-r34-gtr-cold-air-box-detail

Our oldest turned 3 in April and our second arrived in May. I know those feels 0_0

Twin scroll single would be ideal, but not in Victoria.

I already have these and they were next to new. I dont need more lag.

Studs are easy. I'll do those myself. I heard about the new dyno, but I'd rather stick with my tuner. You want this exhaust or what

Too scared to crash it given the $$$ lol All good. A few rice mods and a bit more power and maybe a track day and we'll be right.

So what we're saying is I need studs...

I did a couple of brisk launches just to test and it seemed fine to me.

Haha, I will be for the next tune if I do this. Even still, I was surprised to find how little, as in almost zero, front drive was being engaged through the hill run. More an indication of how much harder I could have pushed grip wise. It only has ATR Sports on it, but they're 275 so even if they're a cheap tyre, there's plenty of it. Probably on par with a half decent 255 which is all my old one had on it.

The extra power is just a nicety and something to keep me happy. The pods is the same, make it noiser and more dramatic/fun to drive. Same as removing the mid muffler, more noise, more fun. I can get a video when it dries out enough for me to get it out of the shed and drive it. How power feels from one person to the next is relative, 330rwkw in a 1500+kg car isn't that much. Some of the "drama" is also lost purely because the 34 hooks up so well. I could put cheese cutter tyres on it and do mad skids everywhere and it would be more exciting to drive lol

Similar to me then. N1 manifolds, HPI 3" dumps into 3.5" front pipe and 3.5" the rest of the way. Same ECU. Full boost seemed laggier to me though. I will do some proper plotting to confirm though. Yes I realise -9s are bigger/laigger and also that larger ports in the N1s will not assist response.

What manifolds and exhaust have you got? Do you know what your cam gear settings ended up at? What Ecu? When's full boost?