No Crust Racing

Centre console lid plastic frame?

Thanks, makes sense. How is the mount for the oil filter secured? More info on the stagea mount on the block? I think my car has the factory exchanger removed.

Greatly appreciated.

Bumped the latency modifier for a total of around 1.2ms total. After letting the water and oil temps come up, one oxygen sensor showed .78v the other showed .28v despite all injectors being set the same.

How can I easily know what latency to use. I'm not sure what voltage and fuel pressure it has at idle. I aimed for around 1ms.

All good. I bought something else

Gone sorry

Pics of your install?

Which requires a relocater yes?

Nice. See if the car survives the tuner and go from there.

$$?

You're directly connected to this forum aren't you... it's all just lines of code in your brain... you're everywhere. Anyway, I know what I need from that kit, but as that would be next to impossible to get (as bits) I considered just getting a generic relocator and bolting on top of sandwich plate. And to be fair, probably only need one oil change a year, time based rather than Ks, but the mess 0_0

Let me know how you go, I also only have one alarm remote.

Car came with the HKS oil cooler kit, which includes a thermostatically controlled sandwich plate on the block. I've just done an oil change and it sucks and is messy so I'd like to add a relocator. What's the easiest way for me to do this and retain the thermostat control to the cooler core? I thought about buying a basic relocator and attaching the the block side on top of the existing sandwich plate, any issues with that? Something like this - http://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-greddy-grex-oil-filter-relocation-kit-nissan.html

Did this last night, I opted to sacrifice the resistor pack side of the loom to leave the ECU side in tact so this is reversible if needed. I am a shit solderer, a mate told me more heat into the wires would help the solder penetrate better. That said I tested the wires before twisting and after soldering for continuity. The soldered section is also heat shrink wrapped under the tape. The whole thing is hidden under the fuse box now and cable tied to stay still. Scaled injectors down to 48% and took a guess at latency (added .35 or so). Car started, and rev'd much more cleanly, no hunting. Still a bit rich though. I also found feedback loop control in the PFC and turned that on, on was easy to tell as the warnings were all set to a specific symbol, knock, injector etc, but the boost control kit was set to a different symbol.

Wheel nuts sold pending pickup. Everything else still here, taking up space. Wanting to live at your house.

Or I can just borrow my neighbours trailer

Not sure how to do that in PowerFC, I barely have to go 25ks, but as that includes a highway stint I'll just trailer it.

Car is getting a wide band kit as part of the Haltech install. As I said, this was only to see if I could get it driveable to the tuner, if not, tow truck it is.

Yeah didn't think it wouldn't case any damage. Other than if I went out and WOT the car and leaned it out.

Although according to this, low impedance without resister pack was the culprit - https://www.hondata.com/tech-low-high-impedance-injectors

I recall seeing something like that, but I thought it was the other way around. Using high impedance injectors without a resistor pack?

Ahh, lower current not voltage. cheers. Either way, less amps isn't going to "hurt" the injectors as far as I'm aware?

Just to get it to the tuner. No big deal if I can't will tow it. I always like to have a go where possible. I wouldn't think it would have any effect other than giving less voltage due to increased resistance in the circuit. (My ohm's law memory is sketchy but I thought higher resistance meant less voltage and given the injectors are being fed through the resistor block, will be seeing less voltage than they want). Which will be why the car actally ran with the injector percentage scaler put back to stock in the PowerFC. When I spoke to Sonic Performance they said it won't have caused any damage but the injectors won't flow properly until the resistor is removed.

I got the car started last night after leaving it for a while, but I put the PFC settings back to where they were - which should have been way too rich. It didn't want to rev cleanly and would hunt after dropping back down from revs. I turned it off and the penny dropped. These are high impedance injectors... Is there a generally accepted way to remove the resistor block?