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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. No reason, not tied to anything in particular, and if the whole exercise is going to cost that much money, I'll just get better AFMs and a retune and leave the L Jetro in there as that'll likely be the cheapest option. That's the biggest issue with anything MAP based is installing the sensors unless there's some new fangled way to achieve this? I've seen talk of balance tubes/pcv setups etc but it appears the best way is tapping the manifold?
  2. You don't think so? I can't speak for 26s, but I can speak for having replaced the intake cam and adding cam gears on my track car. Gained easily 500rpm of response (on a 1.8L) and around 40Nm of midrange, Dyno tested back to back. I cannot say for certain how much of that was the intake cam upgrade and how much was the gears being dialed in as the cam was already in there for base runs. So if nothing else I can certainly confirm cam gears made a difference. I'd be really surprised if cams didn't also help.
  3. My plan was to sell the PFC L and get a PFC D and ditch the AFMs completely for that reason, but we'll see what happens. Because cams make the car sound angrier and give more response. What's not to like?
  4. As an aside, I just saw on reddit of all places a guy talking about buying that car in QLD. As in, he bought it, and seemingly for more than I had negotiated.
  5. Re exhaust is that 3.5" all the way? I think ideally I'd like to go -9s and aim for more like 320-330ish with cams for response. I was planning to get some 600-700cc injectors and a drop in fuel pump just for safety. I actually thought Z32s were a must at that level? Re the car, discussion with the owner continues and is looking semi promising. Waiting to hear back from the Jap history check, baring that having some nightmare info I will aim to get up there next Monday to inspect. My partner is away all this weekend coming (so I'll have the kidlet) so that's out.
  6. I helped him with it. Should be the goods.
  7. OK thanks. Will be interesting to see if it has the Nismo MFD or has just has the VSpec sensors added.
  8. Can someone please run this for me. 6U9000BNR34002374 VSpec and colour code please. Thanks
  9. I might try and get up there Friday. We'll see
  10. Just spoke to my spraypainter he said at absolute worst case 2K and unlikely to be that expensive
  11. I don't think it would be 10k to get it there personally. I'd almost be willing to put money on it... No pun intended.
  12. His latest comment to some more of my questions. "Tyres are pretty much new there only acchiels. Ive replaced all rotors and pads still like new when I did the rear rotors I also did the rear wheel bearings there was a little play in the left. And I had the boot split on the front driver side so I replaced both sides full cv drive shaft. A little extreme but I like the car perfect. Yeah I had the rims professionally painted. There's no stickers on them but theres raised embossed volk etc the cats and front pipes are done as well. And Ive never done a compression test. Your welcome to though"
  13. Jap History check engaged...
  14. Let's not get our hopes up. I was pumped about that QLD car. Most likely this has been smashed front and rear. He just doesn't know it.
  15. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309538-running-r34-gtr-on-2wd-dyno/ Last post. "Unplug the Pump and bleed the slave on the transfer case. Takes a few minutes and works fine. " Looks like removing the front shaft is OK though, i had misread it.
  16. I didn't think it was that simple? Could have sworn you needed to do something to the ATTESA.
  17. I'm wondering this too. inspection and VIN review will tell me more so not getting my hopes up. I like the Z tune guards, bonnet and bumper combo - once colour coded. Plus when I run off the track and smash up the front bar I won't cry as much knowing it was FRP. I have the track car to play with so really I'm not looking to play with something else and don't get enough time as it is, but I'm not willing to drop 60-70 to get a fully done one how I want.
  18. I thought that to switch R34 into RWD mod required bleeding the ATTESA system afterwards as it needs t be depressurized or something? Didn't think it was as simple as dropping a fuse like the 32. "I can do all the labour required". I've fitted turbos before. Is it a shit job? Yes, but I'm capable of it. I've tuned (cheating as its only SAFC and SITC combo and some cam gears), aligned, and done all the upgrades on my track car plus all the service and repair of anything else I've had in the past including replacing a blown headgasket in the track car. Swapping out a TT setup will be balls, but I'll get there when the time comes.
  19. Apparently skirts and rear pods are plastic also, so maybe genuine.
  20. 8-10k if starting from scratch I think? This has EBC, PFC and "full hks exhaust mines dump pipes" already. I would be "guessing" to say that if it has dumps and an HKS exhaust it likely has fronts and cats done but fair point as that's extra cost, neither of which are that expensive. Already has ATS clutch as per the ad, Cam gears are cheap. Tune is a valid point, I'm not sure if there's a 4wd dyno here so would likely get Chris at RacePace to tune it, when I spoke to him last he said tunes for adding mods like that aren't too bad, 4hrs etc, so less than 1k. I know some local tuners but the dyno access is the issue, one of the 4wd shops might have one but they get pissy about letting people use them. I can do all the labour required (not painting but that's mates rates).
  21. Turbos seem to be about 1500-2k on the gtr group, injectors 500, fuel pump 200 or so and afms 4-500? 3k or so then a bit more if i wanted cams and gears, gears alone are bugger all. Maybe 4k in parts there, rear diffuser is expensive 1500-1800 so i would just sit on that til i found one cheap. The paint work would cost me the cost of the paint and some beers. If you got the car for 40, spent 7 or so, that doesn't seem too bad? The QLD car was going to be 46k with the spares so it would have come out cheaper but with all that rust to deal with and 55000 more ks (if the ACT car is genuine, wont surprise me if not).
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