No Crust Racing

OK cheers

Cheers. Ever had vin check done to check k's at export? Ever had a compression test done?

A few questions. - Receipts for built motor? - 96 but with series 1 steering wheel? - Any proof of K's given cluster swap? - Interior photo missing most obvious location for driver seat bolster wear? - Tuned by who? Cheers

Ahh, yeah there's nothing on the market at the moment. Got my feelers out.

#2?

I've seen you in various GTR threads.

Also, I'm not after a show car at all, just something not quite that rough interior wise.

Ultimately it's the rust that's the biggest issue. Too many stories of and comments from people with personal experience trying to treat it.

How did your search go?

There's a thread in general auto about the car in question, its long lol It was only that specific car. Still hunting for either model.

Drove a 34 today, nice but not for me. The search continues, keep'em coming.

I've since spoken with a number of people who's opinions I trust on these things (repairs and GT-Rs) and all have said don't touch so I'm sad to say I spent a day on the road (and a day out of my holidays) for nothing. Greatly appreciate everyone's help on this. The search continues. In respect to the seller, should I look to have this thread closed? I do feel the car represents good value to the right buyer, I just don't think I'm that person.

I keep that in mind, but I balance it against not wanting to drop 60k on a "clean" one that still needs 15k in mods to be how I want it. There's a middle ground in there. Just working out what that is. The rust is my biggest concern.

Honestly not sure what my view is as I'm known for being "picky" but not wanting to spend top dollar.

I dunno, it seems a little rougher than I expected. I really wish I'd driven some others to compare it. I know its a 15yr old car, but I have another mate telling me it's not indicative of a well kept car (maybe prior to current owner) given the rust and interior blemishes.

Drove fine. No miss, cold start tune could use some touching up. Pulled fine. A few interior rattles and the Nismo twin plate rattle. Brakes a little noisy when cold but fine warm. Drove straight, no wobbles up to 80-100 or so. Couldn't hammer it given where we were.

OK update time. Made the 9hr round trip drive to go and see/drive the car. The owner was very helpful (and is also reading this thread so please say Hi and be civil). Below is a gallery of things that stood out as blemishes/concerns/need repair. Comments welcome, but in particular I was interested in what people thought of the following. As in, will these present long term issues or require expensive repair? - Opened and re-sealed headlight. - New seam sealer on inner guard (looks to have been neatly done). - Surface rust on rear subframe. Spoke to my panel beater about this and he said he thought we could repair it with the frame in, wire wheel, rust convertor and some satin black. He did question the unusual spots which almost look like welds to the right of the hicas rack boot. - Similar looking spot on the drivers chassis rail. Comp tested it cold while I was there, barely 5psi variance between all cylinders while cold - seems fine to me. No idea what the tuner was doing when he tested it. Drives fine/straight. Paint is quite good and a very nice colour. Interior has a few blemishes and will need some touch up as pictured. Compared to what you guys have seen how does this stack up? My 33 was actually a little cleaner interior wise but it was a genuine low low k's garage queen. http://imgur.com/a/RckNe

I'm the Vic end. The car has QLD plates and rego. I read that only the registered owner gets the refund which would be the previous owner.

Random question. If I buy a car this car, can I cancel the rego (sept 2016) and receive the refund when I transfer to Vic?

I'll let you know what I think tomorrow after I've driven it...

Seems like a decent guy. I'm still torn about buying a car that I know has been hit hard enough to require an inner guard, upper and lower radiator support and bonnet... But then I look around at what else is out there, for the price, then factor in those spares and how much I like the r35 color on it and that when I move it on I'll have the same issues selling. Hard to balance up.

Have spoken to him, am going to inspect Thursday. He proposed a new price including all spares that makes it worth inspecting. He's currently masking the inner guard for new seam sealer after removing it for inspection after what I told him. He's taken photos of the process.

My dads view was offer him what the lower end of the market goes for and get a bargain as no serious buyer or collector will touch it when I sell it. It was never intended to be a museum piece though. That would be what, 45k? No chance that will happen but for 47-50 with all those spares might be a bargain...

I'm asking if there are any photos also.

The plot thickens more. Got this from history check. I assume nobody wanted it at auction so the repaired it kept driving it. The rego details show a little under 100ks on export so that matches up. The dates also match up with his claims of being the first Aussie owner. Thanks again for ordering a check with us. Sorry we couldn't get back to you sooner, however after we received the registration certificate we realised that another, later auction sheet result must have existed. We went back and searched the auction archives again and managed to find the second auction result (attached). The summary findings are as follows: 1) Car goes to auction at HAA Kobe, March 2008, with 81,240 kms and mechanical repairs required 2) Car is registered for road use in Japan, April 2008 with 81,200 kms (mileage is always rounded to nearest 100 on registration certificate) 3) Car is registered for road use in Japan, March 2010 with 91,700 kms 4) Car goes to auction at USS Tokyo March 2011 with 94,230 kms 5) Car is complied for road use in Australia, June 2011 by Japanese Performance Vehicles Pty Ltd