No Crust Racing

Ahh, my car is lucky to cover a few thousand ks a year - track ks granted, but still. I assume inspecting the spherical bearing is as simple as giving it a yank and seeing what freeplay there is?

Lifeing both?

Do they fit an S13 though? Do R32 LCA's widen the track? What are you after Bris?

I use two stage ramps I made that the splitter clears and are long enough that the wheel hits the leading edge before the next "step". Making it easily removeable might just be easier.

I might have to redesign mine. Yours must be lower if it clears the swaybar also. I had issues with mine attaching to the cross member after upgrading to the bigger swaybar. Bar pushed the splitter down and bent brackets (stayed attached though).

I'll be watching your splitter progress, I'm thinking about V2 myself. How high does your current design sit off the ground and how are you going loading it onto trailers?

#budgetracing But if that's what they cost then so be it.

Thanks, not an issue for me thankfully. I had someone tell me that ISC are junk, thoughts? I have ISC rear camber arms and they "seem" fine. The car doesn't do a lot of K's each year. I didn't really wanna pay $200 for caster arms.

Cheers

Are the rubber mounts an option for road going cars or is there a reason I'd choose those over the spherical unit for a track car? http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_29_355&product_id=418 VS http://www.isccoilovers.com.au/nissan-castor-arms

I was looking at the ISC ones, as he's always very helpful. Might be worth me pressing in some new ball joints also.

Stock LCA's, but as above, it seems camber is not my issue. I'll get some adjustable caster arms to start with, but I'll do that after I finish this compression test.

Thanks Warps. FYI This is a track only car and I realise I'm asking a lot of the tyres now, but given they still have plenty of meat, I'll keep going for now. They did not wear like this until I added the swaybars so I'm thinking that the sidewall is now being asked to work much harder and is rolling over. Also, if the car is too low, then as it squats the increased swaybar stiffness will actually cost me camber through a corner as the whole sub frame moves past it's ideal point. After a bit more reading and discussion, this is my plan. - Raise ride height front and rear to get LCAs flat when stationary and improve roll centres. As I understand it, this will cost me camber front and rear. (correct?) So I'll do this first and see what camber I end up with and decide if bushes/slotting subframe mounts is needed front and rear to get me back to where it was, I may actually back the camber off up front - Get caster arms, aim for 7.5-8, pending clearance which should help dynamic camber up front. - Make a call on rear camber amount pending changes to camber after ride height change and balance that with ability to put power down. Thoughts?

For the money, these are very good and as they still have plenty of tread and this is budget motorsport, they will stay for now. Anything I add to the car now will help me later anyway. After more reading it seems I won't need spacers anyway as I had misunderstood how the LCA bush adjustment will work, so if it clears now it will stay cleared. That said, does that look like camber wear to you? I have a infra red gun on the way also.

Looking at these. http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA412 http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W62544

I've seen those, but not heard good things?

Firstly, I'm assuming this is a sign of not enough camber? Car is a Silvia and has this setup with BC BR 8/6kg coilovers. Whiteline front swaybar 27mm, r32 gt-r rear swaybar. Stock castor arms. S15 rack/tie rods and gktech rear toe arms. Driver: -2.75/1mm toe out Pass: -2.75/1mm toe out Rear- Camber/Toe Driver: - 1.3/1mm toe in Pass: -1.3/1mm toe in Tyres are 595 RS-Rs 2 questions. If I do need more camber, what's the easiest way to get it front and rear. Strut tops are maxed at front and I was going to raise the car a little to help get LCA's parallel and improve roll centres which means I'll lose a bit of camber. I may get a little more camber in the rear but not much as the rear passenger side is closed to maxed due to what I suspect is bent hub. I was thinking either adjustable LCA bush for the front or slotting the shock mount hole. Not much I can do in the rear besides fix hub? Also, spacers. Front wheels are close to shock, if I need more camber I'll need more clearance. Is a 10mm spacer front and rear going to be OK? If so what do I need to know about buying them? Stick with hub centric? Or am I better off with something like this? http://www.gktech.com/index.php/4x114-3-20mm-hub-centric-spacers.html

Google says I'm wrong which will likely be my issue

I'll have to check, I didn't think mine did and I certainly didn't disconnect anything when I had the box out.... maybe that;s the issue? I am talking Silvia though. Thanks for the info though.

I'm interested because my box seems to be pissing oil out of it but it has a new extension housing seal and only seems to weep from there (Silvia boxes seem to always leak from the extension housing). I thought maybe I'd over filled it. I assume it's coming out from underneath the boot around the shifter, the rubber one, not the interior one, and running down the box. My Diff is fine though and is sealed, I don't recall my 33 having any way to leak from the diff?

What's the reasoning behind the diff and box breather tanks?

I get mates rates so it's just materials for me, around 4-5k was his guess. He said a proper costed job would be easily 10k+ I'm going to sit on it and see if I can get a Gunmetal Vspec II as I want that colour and interior combo.

Talking to the owner of the white one. Anyway I can verify it's been rebuilt? He has no receipts and claims it was built by the previous owner. Any way of telling of the water pump and oil pump are N1? Can a bore-scope tell the pistons are N1 by looking at them?

Group is closed, but if you're a member this will get you there. https://www.facebook.com/groups/158878344286716/permalink/426685357506012/?comment_id=426979687476579&offset=0&total_comments=42&notif_t=group_comment_mention

All the good ones are white...