No Crust Racing

Thanks Warps. FYI This is a track only car and I realise I'm asking a lot of the tyres now, but given they still have plenty of meat, I'll keep going for now. They did not wear like this until I added the swaybars so I'm thinking that the sidewall is now being asked to work much harder and is rolling over. Also, if the car is too low, then as it squats the increased swaybar stiffness will actually cost me camber through a corner as the whole sub frame moves past it's ideal point. After a bit more reading and discussion, this is my plan. - Raise ride height front and rear to get LCAs flat when stationary and improve roll centres. As I understand it, this will cost me camber front and rear. (correct?) So I'll do this first and see what camber I end up with and decide if bushes/slotting subframe mounts is needed front and rear to get me back to where it was, I may actually back the camber off up front - Get caster arms, aim for 7.5-8, pending clearance which should help dynamic camber up front. - Make a call on rear camber amount pending changes to camber after ride height change and balance that with ability to put power down. Thoughts?

For the money, these are very good and as they still have plenty of tread and this is budget motorsport, they will stay for now. Anything I add to the car now will help me later anyway. After more reading it seems I won't need spacers anyway as I had misunderstood how the LCA bush adjustment will work, so if it clears now it will stay cleared. That said, does that look like camber wear to you? I have a infra red gun on the way also.

Looking at these. http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA412 http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W62544

I've seen those, but not heard good things?

Firstly, I'm assuming this is a sign of not enough camber? Car is a Silvia and has this setup with BC BR 8/6kg coilovers. Whiteline front swaybar 27mm, r32 gt-r rear swaybar. Stock castor arms. S15 rack/tie rods and gktech rear toe arms. Driver: -2.75/1mm toe out Pass: -2.75/1mm toe out Rear- Camber/Toe Driver: - 1.3/1mm toe in Pass: -1.3/1mm toe in Tyres are 595 RS-Rs 2 questions. If I do need more camber, what's the easiest way to get it front and rear. Strut tops are maxed at front and I was going to raise the car a little to help get LCA's parallel and improve roll centres which means I'll lose a bit of camber. I may get a little more camber in the rear but not much as the rear passenger side is closed to maxed due to what I suspect is bent hub. I was thinking either adjustable LCA bush for the front or slotting the shock mount hole. Not much I can do in the rear besides fix hub? Also, spacers. Front wheels are close to shock, if I need more camber I'll need more clearance. Is a 10mm spacer front and rear going to be OK? If so what do I need to know about buying them? Stick with hub centric? Or am I better off with something like this? http://www.gktech.com/index.php/4x114-3-20mm-hub-centric-spacers.html

Google says I'm wrong which will likely be my issue

I'll have to check, I didn't think mine did and I certainly didn't disconnect anything when I had the box out.... maybe that;s the issue? I am talking Silvia though. Thanks for the info though.

I'm interested because my box seems to be pissing oil out of it but it has a new extension housing seal and only seems to weep from there (Silvia boxes seem to always leak from the extension housing). I thought maybe I'd over filled it. I assume it's coming out from underneath the boot around the shifter, the rubber one, not the interior one, and running down the box. My Diff is fine though and is sealed, I don't recall my 33 having any way to leak from the diff?

What's the reasoning behind the diff and box breather tanks?

I get mates rates so it's just materials for me, around 4-5k was his guess. He said a proper costed job would be easily 10k+ I'm going to sit on it and see if I can get a Gunmetal Vspec II as I want that colour and interior combo.

Talking to the owner of the white one. Anyway I can verify it's been rebuilt? He has no receipts and claims it was built by the previous owner. Any way of telling of the water pump and oil pump are N1? Can a bore-scope tell the pistons are N1 by looking at them?

Group is closed, but if you're a member this will get you there. https://www.facebook.com/groups/158878344286716/permalink/426685357506012/?comment_id=426979687476579&offset=0&total_comments=42&notif_t=group_comment_mention

All the good ones are white...

Even if there was full pics of before, during, and after?

Do you think people would flip out if it ever cam time to sell it and it'd been repsrayed?

I've just accepted it Fatz. And if I need to paint one then so be it. Though I've wondered. Using the white one as an example, do you think it would turn people off to know if it had a full re-spray in Z Tune Gunmetal?

A thread on the GT-R group on FB is turning up some nice examples and ultimately I realise I'm just going to have to pony up the cash for a 34 as that's what I really want.

I rang and spoke with my paint and panel guy about what it would cost to full respray (engine out etc) and it's not crazy, but it's a lot of work as to get the mates rates I'd have to do a lot of the work with him in terms of disassembly. He's had cars in street machine so his paint and panel work is very good.

I worry about the hassle of doing a full spray.

Even looking at these 2. http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-2001/SSE-AD-3339180/?Cr=11 Could likely get that for 60k after speaking to him, but it needs another 10 in mods, though it's an excellent colour and very mint. Then there's something like this - http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1999/SSE-AD-3334870/?Cr=14 Which you'd get for mid to low 50s and has basically all the work done - but it's white =\

I had a nice 33, but sold it to keep my license... I've always wanted a 34, just so sexy to me, but that price...

I keep my eye out as I'd like another GT-r (had a 33 previously). Whilst I can afford either, it's a hard pill to swallow when you see things like this forged rebuild R33 for 40k less than this nice R34. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454161-r33-gtr-forged-engine/?hl=%2Br33#entry7515564 http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3339180 I've looked at a couple cheaper R34s, 45ish, and so many seem to have had a hit or have very minimal mods. That 34 I posted would need another 10k in parts or so to be how I'd like it as a street car Are R34 values climbing? Anyway, that's my rant.

Can you please check: BNR34-400864 GGJPRVYR34ZDAAAXAD I'd like to know what model of R34 GT-R that is, V-spec1/2 M-Spec etc.

I am sort of thinking I might not change much at all and will head to winton as is for back to back testing with known lap times. Then adjust dampening, then maybe disconnect some swaybar end links and see what happens. I am also feeling like I might be asking too much from the tyres but I do recall hearing of a soarer (heavier than me) that did a flat 40 at Winton on the same tyres so I should be able to do it easily...

I love how my questions always get some different responses. I've been told that any more camber would kill these tyres (street tyres) but then again I feel like I'm seeing wear on the outside edge - as in it's darker and feathered.