No Crust Racing

How high is "right" though, front LCA's parallel at least?

Realistically, I should be able to raise it up and not have a heap of extra roll with those swaybars and springs.

Two other things. I'm being advised to get some adjustable castor arms and dial in more positive castor and was also asked to look at the angle of my LCAs, which are definitely not parallel upfront. Cross member side sits lower than wheel side which as I understand it is not good for Roll Centre,

I put it on stands last night after packing up all my gear from the track day. Interestingly the outside edge of the tyres front and rear looks darker/more worn. Which I thought would imply it needs more camber. Talking to a buddy of mine with a very similarly setup car (but better and wider tyres) he runs -3.5 front and -2.5 rear with the same bars and spring rates (although Tien RS and no BCs).

Spoke to BC who suggested I speak with Paul at option1, he recommended returning to the stock front swaybar and testing that, leaving spring rates alone. Then swapping that around and putting the stock rear back in but leaving the front. That's a fir bit of f**king around at a paid track day but it's not impossible. I might take both bars, go and run a session with it as it is, and see how those times compare to previous Winton times then look to swap a bar out and test again. Federal said my hot tyre pressures are fine. Paul also said my alignment settings were on the money.

I'll get under the car when I can and see how the tyre wear looks also, as I'm yet to check that.

The ARB at the front is adjustable and on max soft, as in the connection points are farthest from each other. I'm just getting details on going 6/4kg spring rates instead.

I actually didn't touch them, and I should have at least checked them. If I recall they are both close to, if not already on, max soft.

S13, but that shouldn't matter. See video and not that in the long left hander at 0:41 and 1:43 how the nose of the car seems to want dart around a bit. All throughout the video you can see how skittish the car is. Last time I drove here it was much more progressive, I've added swaybars since then and I'm guessing the whole setup is too firm now. And this is before the bars went in and starting from turn 1. Here's what's in it/the alignment, let me know what you think. I did the alignment with a stringline, took 6hrs going up and down allowing the car to be settled again then re-measuring. I had no success with local shops. So after A LOT of stuffing around it now has the following and "looks" a lot better. Front - Camber/Toe (can't tell you what castor is, arms are stock). Considered maybe less camber might give me a better contact patch if the car is now not leaning over as much with the swaybars. Driver: -2.75/1mm toe out Pass: -2.75/1mm toe out Rear- Camber/Toe Driver: - 1.3/1mm toe in Pass: -1.3/1mm toe in Car has BC BR Coilovers with 8kg Front and 6kg rear springs - maybe these are too firm? Whiteline 27mm front swaybar (adjustable and on max soft) R32 GT-R rear swaybar (25mm hollow) New end links both ends. Federal RS-Rs 235 all round, was running about 29-30psi hot on that day. Maybe I'm just at the limit of what these tyres can do? I'm yet to get under it and have a look at how the tyres wore, but the car was a late more skatey than usual, not sure if that's because the swaybars are allowing me to go faster or because something is wrong. Yes I realise I am also a shit driver and smoother inputs will help

Excellent. Proceed.

Yeah the caption with the message was "yeah you want it...." Cheers, could be doing more, regardless of injuries, time is the killer. Don't have kids

Probs works for mules too.

I was a skeptic until we took our previous 11yr old Boxer to see one, she was very clearly in less pain and happier. She made it to 12. I realise you are not a dog, but I was very surprised.

Nice, fingers crossed.

Good news Bird, well done! Here's my update. I took random bathroom selfie to text Kate while she was out walking the dog (excuse facial expression, was not meant fo ryou guys). Still missing a good 3-4kg, so I'm about half way there on what I lost way back when I hurt my back (still not squatting, only doing bike work) also carrying much more mid section fat as you can see (abs could be worse given my ab work consists of a few basisc planks for back strength and some swiss ball morning glory type things). Still down on all lifts also after that shoulder strain which is sticking around a little but slowly getting better. Could be a lot better but given my diet has suffered (not that it was ever specific for training but I tried to eat healthy, but with a child, work very busy,etc) and that I'm only getting 3x 30min sessions a week (including a good 10mins of bike) I am managing to maintain some shape at least.

Thanks for your help guys.

How do people feel about this list? I've edited up an old SAU list for an event that's coming up soon that I'll be assisting with scrutineering. I've got a bit of track day experience and know my way around a car well enough. This is not a door to door racing event and will be a small sprint day run under AASA regs. Exterior - Brake lights working. - Windscreen - clear visibility and no cracks. - Battery - secured firmly. - Battery Triangle Affixed. - Tyres - check tread, valve caps fitted. - Wheels secured firmly. - No fluid leaks, oil, brakes, gearbox, etc. - Covers on fluid reservoirs, clutch, brakes, power steering. - Worn or cracked belts and hoses, cracked or worn fuel lines. - Accelerator - Must be free of binding, throttle return springs safely attached. Interior - Brake pedal - Not low or spongy - Steering wheel - boss kit secure, grip not loose etc - Seat belts/harness - secured, sound operation and condition, within date range. - Front seats - secured firmly, within date range. - Fire extinguisher – 1kg min securely fixed, metal bracket, firm clamp, in reach of driver, gauge in green - AS1841 - Doors handles function internally/externally both sides. - Helmet - No physical damage visible AS1698 sticker. - Cage check, secure, padded where appropriate. - Engine kill switch operates if available. - No loose objects, spare wheel, jack, tools etc. removed. Extra things to check at home before you arrive: Suspension check - Seals/bushes, etc. Exhaust - check for secure mounting/leaks. Bolt check - Cage, seat, suspension, wheels. Brake pads. Steering connections/couplings. Worn/cracked hoses/fittings/couplings/etc.

Yuck, time to work on the car instead.

They are decent, I'm doing sprints on an exercise bike instead of squats to rest my back and my legs are looking nicer and my cardio has also improved notably.

No good, how bad are we talking?

Seems my shoulder still needs some time, I added a little bit of weight to some things on Friday and then did a little work on the car Sat/Sun and it pulled up a little tender =\ Where do I sign up for carbon fibre/titanium super composite power joints/tendons/muscles?

Have dropped the sump to replace front and rear seals on my CA, just wondering if I should be checking anything in particular while it's off. Assuming rod bearings would the only thing I can check without dropping the crank - which I don't plan on doing. Any risk to removing the caps?

Done.

Just did quick test fit. Brackets will fit car. Just hit them with some primer and will satin black them later because I don't like the natural colour. If I get a chance I'll fit the rear bar later but have been playing daddy day care while the missus is sick and out of comission.

I had the bracket with me. Bolt holes line up. From memory nothing was in the way but I'll find out later.