No Crust Racing

Afternoon gents, I always planned to buy another GT-R, previously I had a daily driven R33 V-Spec, R34 Turbos, tuned, nismo suspension, etc etc, basic mild bolt ons, and whilst it's still a couple years out (I promised myself I would achieve some other financial goals first before plunging decent dollars back into cars) I am already having a hard time tossing up between what was always the plan, an R34, and buying an R35 instead. The car will be a weekend only car, I'll keep my Silvia/buy something else for track duties. I will buy it with my own money, not finance. I've been for a spin in a 34 that was similarly modified to my 33, and it was as you'd expect, a more refined, nicer, newer version of what I had. I've driven an R35 also - back in 2008 before Nissan had one in Australia officially as I was writing for a motoring website back then and it was a private import, and it struck me as being very large, very heavy, far more refined, quiet, comfortable, torquey, but very much a different beast. For an R34 I'd be looking for a V-Spec 2 and the plan would ultimately be to put a 3L bottom end in it, the usual bolt ons, etc, and aim for 3-400awkw while going for a Z tune style look. I realise an R35 can achieve that figure with far less hassle and basic bolt ons/Cobb etc and likely go faster anyway. plus it'll maintain it's comfort and refinement, but will also be a slightly less "involved" drive and in my opinion not sound as good. Then there's the question of maintenance and repair costs. I can quite safely do almost all of the service and repair to an RB26, I have no hands on experience with the VR38. I doubt the local Nissan has seen one either. Questions around the box seem to come up regularly on here. Yes I will drive both and I assume 2011-2013 version will be affordable by then, especially if an R36 (apparently hybrid?) comes out, but I'm interested in hearing from people who have owned/currently own both and how you feel they compare. I keep in mind than a VP2 will be a good 15yrs old by then. Ideally, I'd have them both, but I'll have to choose just one. Thoughts?

I might have some spare from the body kit install. That said adhesive won't be enough in some spots. Parcel shelf especially. It's too uneven.

Does this thing still start?

I might just try and cover in the whole lot then as best I can, throw on some silicon as well. I've got some 200deg Engineering silicon there I think.

This is just a club level car. Will never be racing door to door or under CAMS. I'd the main reason behind the need to seal it fire or fumes? As a few small holes aren't going to let big flames in so long as the main hole and speaker holes are sealed. I can just seal the lot with one piece but it wouldn't be air tight anyway.

It seems like a good idea to seal up the rear firewall if you have a surge tank setup, I'm not sure if this is an actual requirement on a track car, but I've bought some .6mm aluminium sheet already. The question I have is how hardcore you need to go, if there's not some AASA rule on it. Can you just cover over the main hole and the speaker holes or do you need to cover in the whole thing including the wholes where the wires run through etc. I ask as it determines how much sheet I'll have left and if I get carried away and do door cards too.

Do you guys know what the rules are on sealing the boot in? I'm planning on using just an aluminium sheet over the rear firewall, do I need to cover the parcel shelf also as it has those speaker holes. I assume so?

Cheers for everyone's help, just some wiring left to do.

My concerns re my location are. A) Weight distribution B) proximity to wheel well in the event of an accident.

Any issues with mounting the surge tank in this location? Hole in the spare wheel well for hoses. The surge tank plate prohibits me putting it in the wheel well without decent modification and new fittings between the pump and surge tank.

Awesome dude, glad it's working out for you. I did the same last night after a busy weekend (which resulted in a sore back and shoulder - skipped Monday). Feeling good today. High 5's all round.

Extreme case I think. Also too arrogant and refused to listen to people who told me ease off for a while lol

Very much so. 2 years from the start of the problem to being able to lift even the lightest weights again. From mid 90kgs to high 70s. In the end I just gave up doing any weights at all and was very conscientious about how I opened doors, how I help my arm when I slept, etc. It was ridiculous, but all my own fault.

Sounds good mate, much smarter than me When you do come back, something I've had success with is going 70-80% first session back, by that I mean volume so you can either drop weight and keep the same reps/sets, or (what I prefer) is keep the same weight but drop some reps of the final set or drop a set all together. See how you pull up from that and if you're solid then consider a 100% next session.

Good plan mate, 2 weeks off a few exercises is better than having it be basically dead like mine

Agreed, I could make a small change and be back on the gains wagon easily I think, there's no pushing for that at that moment though, being able to get into the Gym regularly and stay in shape is enough.

Haha, no. I can use a drill, dig holes, polish a car etc and not feel any discomfort. Weighted chins with full extension in the elbow, no pain etc. Dirty mind...

Not really a build thread anymore lol, just a maintenance thread. I'm amazed how much I can cut back on time and effort thought and still be in decent shape.

I'm still here and still staying active. A few months of cold and flue (son of rajab having kids brings some germs into the house) has seen me drop a good 4-5kg, so I'm down around 84kg now. The plus side is abs look great and Kate much prefers it so it's not all negatives. As for exercising, taking it very ginger because sleep, health, and eating do not support anything magical. 90sec break for first 2 second set, 120 sec from 2nd to 3rd set. Bench 105kg 8/8/7 Squats 20reps at 48kg - I work up to 25/30reps or so then add a little weight. 3min front plank. Weighted chins at 24kg, 8/8/8 3min Back plank Weighted dips at 27.5kg 8/8/8 Usually a little toe touching stretching, sometimes a set of 10 rack pulls but I do that only if my back can support it. Sessions are 35mins tops, but at the moment that's all the time I've got and I'm doing them after all the evening ritual so sometimes 9:30 or so, not ideal but better than getting fat. Leesh congrats on your results at the comp, great stuff - DL'ing as much as I was at almost 30kg less lol

Yes, I spent the better part of 2yrs "fixing" it. I was an epic bro curler and eventually had tendinitis in the elbow badly to the point that reach to open a door was painful. My advice would be to stop and let it rest immediately and try to work out what's the cause, it should usually be obvious. Curls, chins, maybe rows. Stop that exercise and let the arm rest. From there I spent a lot of time with a physio but the main part of that was forearm, wrist, and shoulder conditioning to support the elbow better. Wrist curls, lots of hand bent back forearm and wrist stretching. I took a lot of time off gym and it basically reset my gym work to zero because I'd continued to train on the bad elbow, it took a long time to recover, a REALLY long time. When I came back, i used very light weight for curls, got an ezy bar, used cross body hammer curls etc, anything that helped remove strain from the elbow. I would say it's now 95% and I can beat on it pretty hard without drama. I've also ditched curling completely these days, the only bicep specific work I do is weighted chins which is compound anyway. So my advice is rest it NOW a week or a month is better than years of rehab work. Also, on the ankle and back front, ankle is pretty good these days, still rotates out djring light squatting and I don't think I can stop that. I have another step of phsyio above what I've done, but haven't had the time to make up the tool I need to do it. The back is not too bad for basic work, digging holes seems to upset it as does squatting too much and any form of deadlift/rack pulls. At the moment I only do a single 20rep set of low bar squats at a little under 50kg and that's plenty. I take it very gingerly and have to assess how I feel the next day, if it pulls up sore on tuesday from monday's exercise I go easier on Wednesday. That said I'm not specifically stretching for it now, only warm up stretches for general gym. I do front and bank planks also for core stability and can still easily touch my toes cold so that's good for me.

Oh and BTW Zebra, confirmed that Walbro is genuine. Problem being that the size of the body makes it a pain in the arse to get something to mount it with other than ribber p-clamps.

Because these are cheaper and if it's suitable then why not? Still Bosch. No point in me having a 300lph pump on a 1.8L with 460cc injectors, unless I actually need it.

Just thinking, should I also be considering an adjustable regulator or do I just assume the stock one is fine? I'm also on the fence about whether this Bosch pump will flow enough fuel, I realise the kpa ratings are within the limits I need (supposedly 300kpa base fuel pressure plus another 120 or so to account for boost) but the LPH just looks so low. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121337060270?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

What's the logic there? Pump stops pumping? OR that it pumps at low pressure and the motor runs lean? (I run a wideband and have the knock reading on the SAFC as the main reading when driving. I'd of thought that if a drop in fuel pressure was going to blow my motor up it would have happened already with the few times I've had fuel surge issues and misfired because of it. In which case I'd do the same thing as I did then, stop driving. Not disagreeing, just opening up for discussion.

Just getting final pricing for various bits. Take a chance on this with 2yr warranty? http://www.ebay.com....984.m1423.l2649 Or spend the extra for this? http://www.ebay.com....cc0eef00&_uhb=1