No Crust Racing

lol just remove the passenger seat

Actually I had to drop a couple of kegs at one point because I was having trouble getting into the race seat... to be fair it's a narrow seat with deep thorax support.

"Anything heavy"

When I eventually buy another GT-R, I'll think I'll keep it mainly street driven and keep the Silvia for track duties, GT-R track cars, or anything heavy really, seem to just eat money.

It's always rough when you can't just pick something from further up the line as an upgrade and have it be enough. For me, some bigger rotors, a BM50 and some S15 calipers was a huge upgrade, all cheap and readily available. For you guys, that's more or less what you start with =\ I have no idea what a half caged semi stripped S13 weighs but I'd hazard a guess and say it's a couple hundred kegs lighter than what you guys are wrestling.

I was just generalizing, not pointing the finger Having owned an R33 GTST and an R33 GTR V-Spec, both modified, I can definitely say that S-Chassis make a lot more sense as a dedicated track car, where as the R-Chassis are a lot nicer on as a street car. Not saying either can't do the other job, just saying that from personal experience, I think they are both slightly better suited to one than the other - you can of course spend money and it becomes a moot point

I have nothing bad to say about them, they have been very good on my car. I'm only looking around because there are now some cheaper alternatives and I wanted to assess those. I think pads get an unfair wrap sometimes. Too many people put new pads in on stock brakes and complain that they are shit (I'm talking more about fade and power as opposed to directly pad related things like dust). Often times using bog standard fluid or old fluid, which they boil at the track and blame pads for, or for using non slotted rotors, which many pads recommend using to get the best out of. Not saying some comments aren't warranted, just that I find so many people pin all issues on the pads.

I'm going to try the Intima's next (when the fronts are gone) and then depending on that may try the Lucas as well. Intima first as a favour to the mate with the shop wanting reviews. I'll probs also go back to slightly better fluid next time too (plus braided lines). Because I just love giving myself more work

Yeah man yways to skin the cat when it comes to cooking brakes. For me now I think fluid is the weak point, but that was a conscious decision to stop me cooking the tyres as they were going off before the brakes prior to this.

Went and checked the car, turn out there's still well over half the fronts, so that must be the second set of fronts and the original rears I just used up. I'll go for the Intima's (partially to help a mate) I think, but will wear out what's in there first.

Sounds to me more like intima Sr for the money

Greatly appreciate the feedback. Similar to me, top speed a touch over 170 at Winton and around 200rwkw, but in a Silvia.

Have you used the intima John? Dale: I bedded them in as requested which was a few 80 to 40 brakes then a few 120 to 40 then a few 120 to 0 stops increasing in pedal pressure then good to go, the car was still road registered then. In terms of treatment i'd say I've been harsh on them in terms of going till obvious fade then backing off. Vents helped. I now have standard sca brand dot 4 fluid though too and with the rsr tyres the pads are probably no longer the weak point. Interesting that they didn't squeel for me until the wear indicator.

Hmm. Next event is lap dash but only club event with close mates (if I make this event) So I can tool around if I like. Looking at that, it would take half a day's worth of sessions at a test and tune When there's cars, bikes and open wheelers you only get 1x 20min session per hour. So that adds a few $$ to the price really.

Cheers for the feedback. How many ks/how long to cook them as my car is track only. I'm only considering the Intima because it's a mate with a shop that's wanting me to test/review them and those prices are good compared to standard.

Being soft, how long do they last? Those QFMs have done A couple of DECA's, 3-4 track days and a little street driving. BUT I'd consider either them or me harsh on rotors (but they were only vented/slotted RDA's).

Too expensive. Has anyone tried the intima sr or type D? I can get full sets for 150 and 200 respectively.

That wasn't a dig mate, that was providing context. As in, I know your opinion will be a bit biased (and that's OK) but tell me what you think anyway. Have you done/seen any testing vs the A1RM? If the TRW are as good as you say that would make them the performance pad bargain of the century almost. Edit: WASN'T a dig lol, what a typo.

As per my last post, an R33 booster solved it. Brakes felt good at the last track day.

Well you're going to be biased, but what should my expectations be versus the A1RMs on my car? S13 with S14/15 front calipers and standard rears, R33 Booster. Slotted rotors, BM50. Brake duct vents (home made though, piping from front air intakes to hub so who knows how well they work lol)

I was looking at these as a replacement for the QFMs http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131161468503?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

It is, who is it? PM me if need be.

A full set or a pair of fronts?

Rotor wear on my RDA slotted/vented fronts was terrible, wiped the slots out of them. Probs more using a street rotor in a track setting though. I also have vents now.

Im not sure about your car, but mine get's pretty hot in the engine bay, yet to see a clamp come loose, not bad for original clamps on a 25yr old car I understand what you're saying, I just don't feel that it's as much of a factor for me on a car that only does a few thousand k's a year at most and gets very regular eyes on it.