No Crust Racing

Yeah I've got 2x 20L but with the upper half of the tank being another 20L or so it means there's only really 60L of fuel, or just over 1 full tank worth. During a full track day, up to 150ks plus I can easily go through a full tank and almost both 20L containers. I could just buy a 3rd 20L container but it's a pain in the ass carting them around. Not to mention carrying an extra 20-30kg i don't need.

Any special pump required for external mounting? Also where doors the "good" pump go? Feeding the surge or feeding the engine?

Fair enough, the standard tank has push on rubber hose into hard lines, can't be that bad. That said, can't hurt to look at prices. I'll do some searching for some diagrams to show me how all this stuff is supposed to work/be mounted.

Only using 235 RS-Rs I thought with half a tank in it, there should be enough fuel but maybe not. Budget would be as low as is safe. It doesn't need high end stuff as it's only tracked from time to time and it doesn't use a heap of fuel so flow is not a big problem. No idea about pumps, whatever is cheapest and easiest. I know I need a second pump but I was under the impression the second pump could be basically anything?

CA18 track car, not fast but potentially fast enough to move fluids around too much. During a hot session where I'm going for it, the car recently filled the 1L catch can twice. I did not put the fluids back in as the dipstick seemed to indicate it had enough in it, but it should not have been overfull as I'd checked it before the track day. I am also finding that it would like to shoot out the dipstick if allowed - I have it wired to hold it shut. After removing the oil I could hear ticking/rattling in the top end when going hard around corners implying no oil supply to the head/lifters. I've checked and cleaned the balance tube when it was out last during head gasket replacement. Both rockers are are plumbed to the can, the can has baffled and vented to atmo with a filter on it. The factory connection back to the intake pipe pre turbo is blocked. I assume the PCV valve is working properly from the basic rattle test. I thought perhaps it was just lots of blowby but it comp tests indicate it's healthy (but it is running 17-18psi). I am now thinking it's either not breathing as it should or during hard cornering/braking/accel the oil is loading up one one side and blocking the balance tube or some other form of return. Thoughts?

CA18 track car, not fast but potentially fast enough to move fluids around too much. I'm assuming it's fuel surge. Walbro 400lp/h pump. Car will cough, splutter and miss coming out of right hand corners when the tank is below 1/3rd -so fuel moves to the left. It's now happening with the tank half full/a little under half. Still likely to be fuel surge or more likely a wiring issue? The pump is hose clamped to the hanger as low as I could get it without it touching, I also remove the lower mounting surface from the arm so it was not obstructing the picking. Surge tank time or something else? And if surge tank, what's the easiest/cheapest way to achieve this?

Booster fixed it, felt good today. Wasn't a great day all round but brakes felt much better at least. I'll detail the rest in my build thread when I get to it.

Hose on manifold. Cheers

My CA is only building about 14psi instead on 18 or so but it's also running lean rather than rich. Manual boost controller. Wide band in the decay pipe. Ideas?

Winton tomorrow.

Fitted R33 booster, pedal sink on startup is more pronounced and there seems to be a bit more travel on the pedal (i measured everything too so it shouldn't be in the booster rod adjustments). Won't now til I drive it but weather is looking really uncertain so not sure if we'll make the test and tune on Friday or not. If we do go I'll take the other set of pads also.

Double post

Are you local?

Boosters not masters.

Are these the same? I ask as I'm after an R33 booster for my Silvia (using BM50 with 4pots) and have been offered a Z32 booster but can't for the life of me confirm if they are the same.

Would love to get this wrapped up this weekend if possible so preference if you're in Albury/Wodonga. Just after the booster, BMC not required. Going on a Silvia. Can get one for $60 posted from Melb so will match that locally and you keep the extra $$ that would have covered postage.

I read all the same stuff, hence taking it in. Guy behind the counter was very helpful and said while he was not 100% it was definitely faulty, it should behave as you mentioned above (and as I can get one for $50 second hand easily enough to just swap it out). I'll grab another and see how it goes.

I reckon I should be able to grab one locally. I'll confirm it's stuffed first as I don't know enough about properly testing them, I am only assuming that air I felt is a problem. I'd prefer to have it confirmed.

All the best ones do I'll update later when I've spoken to Brakes man.

"In most cases" You must have powerful swimmers my man. We were fine with just the pill until we decided it was time. Now we have our very own Tamagotchi. I mean Toddler.

That's enough to prevent pregnancy in most cases...

Lol what

Well still confused. I wasn't 100% clear on what he actually wanted me to measure, but I can say the rod on the booster has clearance to the master and is not hard up against it. What I did find is that with the booster removed from the car and my finger over the fitting where the vac hose would connect. I could operate the booster by hand (which I thought he said I shouldn't be able to do but I'm not sure if he went with it on or off the car). Either way, when the rod extends out the front I can feel air moving past the rod which I would assume is supposed to be air tight. I have it with me and will drop past the brakes place tomorrow to discuss.

The booster itself has been tested with and without Vac, and behaves as expected. I'll test the pedal without it, but really that's no different to me pumping the pedal then holding it down and starting the car. I'm hoping to get a few mins tonight and I'll focus on the booster rod length I think.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll test it when I can but it must be either stuffed master (unlikely) or due to the booster adjustment. I'm hoping to get some time on it tonight.