No Crust Racing

Yeah that's the tough part. Even when I got my first performance car it was a different era, we got away with heaps by comparison with today's standards. It's very anti-enthusiast now days, and why not when you can make so much revenue fining people for bullshit.

It's a good rig, it has a lot of potential. It will be a shame to see him sell it. If you can think of any of your mates who would be interested by all means pass it on.

Everything I've read suggest back focus is a common issue on D90s. Further down in the comments, on guy explains which direction to turn depending on if you've got front or back focus issues. Even if you do end up with a new camera, a second body could be handy if it's working well Good luck.

I never have a problem finishing, for those 10 seconds or less, I'm free.

Hi guys, just wanting to share this as I found it useful. Short version is I found this link, followed it and had success. http://buckscorner.com/home/nikon-d90-autofocus-calibration/ Backstory. I bought my missus a D90 a few years back when it was considered a good camera. On a holiday we had the camera in the boot of the car (in a decent lowerpro bag) but somehow it got lose of where it was packed and it must have taken a fairly solid knock. The 18-55mm kit lens then started showing some binding issues on the focus ring and pics out of the camera didn't seem as crisp, I assumed it was the damaged lens and as the other lens was a 70-300 it was hard to test them back to back to confirm. I recently got jack of struggling with the 18-55 and its lack of low light capability (f3.5 at best) and how it was costing me shots of our new bub. So I bought a 35mm 1.8G DX for it and was disappointed that shots still looked average. I'd suspected the camera may be at fault too so started doing some reading. As there's no place locally to calibrate lenses I knew I'd have to send it to Melbourne so thought I might as well have a go myself and if I got it wrong it was already being sent away. I ran through the focus tests and found it was back focusing noticeably. I made tiny adjustments on the screws as per the article and tried my best to mimic those changes on each of the 3 screws. Took about an hour or so. My result was quite good, faster focusing and much sharper images. I would say that I think it may not be 100% as I suspect that there's some "soft" focus around the edges (at higher F stops so it's not a DOF issue) so the camera may be calibrated anyway, but in the meantime, until I can get down to Melbourne, I'm much happier with the shots coming out of the camera, as is my partner (which is probably even more important...). Keep in mind this is only useful for Cameras that dont have AF fine tune adjustments built in, so if you have a D7000 or something you can make adjustments from the config menu and do not need to be fiddling with screws.

FYP.

Sorry this video.

So I'm pulling it apart again, does anyone have any ideas on what I should look at when I get the box off. The rattle is most notable in the above clip after the 1min mark when I'm free revving it OUT of gear. You will have to turn the volume up though.

Glad top see you making progress. I'm still chasing Brad for those plates and bolts which should've turned up yesterday if he actually sent them when he said he would. I'd encourage you to call him and harass him as much as I am, as I'm rapidly running out of energy to pursue it after the 3-4mths I've already put in.

I think we'd notice a big improvement if we weren't already eating a reasonable amount. Either that or the amount extra needed to see real gains is much larger than we think. I'm open to both ideas.

They were 2 separate comments for me really. Just talking about how having eaten more protein etc I'm not seeing a specific improvement in lifts. Cutting out bad things is simply, less chocolate/sweet treats. More protein and still having carbs. Plenty of calories. Especially considering I can't do any leg work at the moment.

I'm seeing the same. I've specifically added a heap more protein to my diet, and removed more of the bad things also. But I'm not finding any improvement in say, the amount of reps I can do at a challenging weight on a particular exercise. Most of the time it seems that once you get to a certain point, say you can do (in my case) 7 reps of a weight when you want to do 8, the best way to get above it is to just add more weight and get to 6-7 at a higher weight, then when you drop the weight back to the previous weight you've got 8 in the tank. Obviously eating enough to support the work is important, I'm just saying that I personally find that if I am stuck at doing 80-90% of a given weight/rep scheme, eating more on its own does not directly improve it. I have to add weight also. As for the PWO discussion, I've once tried Craze and it worked very well for me, it's the only one I've tried and I've only used it that one time.

A mate of mine is parting ways with his awesome project car. It's up on eBay (check for more pics) but here's the rundown. Looking for 16k but he's open to offers. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281160076709 Big Block Ford Engine 485 cubes Original 460 motor FMX Stage 2 Transmission Stall Converter by The Converter Shop 8 Inch Billet Backed 5500RPM 460 Offset Crank Machine work Weiand Tunnel Ram (HPC Coated) Tunnel Ram Linkages NEW Twin 660 centre squirters by RAYJE Carburettors. (Rebuilt and not used) Carbie spacer plates Carbie Bolts Edelbrock Aluminium Cylinder Heads Custom Race Valves Crower 3/8 custom racing push rods Iskederian Springs Crow Locks Comp Cams Retainers Screw in Studs and Guide Plates Yella Terra Roller Rockers TRW 12.5-1 Forged Racing Pistons Super Cobra Jet Con Rods ARP Rod Bolts Clevite Bearings King Bearings Bullet Racing Flat Tappet Camshaft Comp Cams Flat Tappet Lifters Hilborn Fuel Pump & Belt drive High Energy Sump Super Pan High Volume Oil Pump System 1 Oil Filter Aluminium with reusable inners (made in USA) Chrome bolts with Ford logo embossed on them for whole motor ARP Flywheel bolt, V/cover stud set, molly oil pump driveshaft, distributor stud Ford gasket kit MSD Distributor part no: 8577 MSD 6AL Ignition part no: 6429 MSD Blaster 2 Coil Moroso Over flow bottle Moroso Rocker Covers CVR High performance Billet Water Pump Aluminium Timing Cover Castlemaine Rod Shop Engine adaptors (engineered) Cleveland eng mounts to BB460 Engine is basically all new and not been used. Minor things to finish motor like attachment of crabs, water pump, Timing cover, rocker covers and buy some headers. Spares I have a couple of boxes of various bits like harmonic balancer, braided vacupan hoses Basically the whole engine is brand new and not been used except for the crank and cam. Minor things to finish motor like attachment of crabs, water pump, Timing cover, rocker covers and buy some headers. Engine builder said Motor size: 485ci and Approx HP: 620 – 650 Car Brand New Paint (even the inner guards painted with 30 odd hours to prep them for paint. Silver with blue pearl New Interior Carpet, Seats, door trims, hood lining Dash re skinned and all plastics painted Roll Cage from Andrews Race Cars Sydney Chrome Trim polished Pedder’s Front end suspension, tye rods ends, idler arms, ball joints and bushes, rubbers everything Nolthanathe some in blue to match the car. Rear Brake drums rebuilt All suspension sandblasted, powder coated pearl blue, silver & Black except idler arms black Strange full spool Fibre glass boot lid Undercarriage painted in black New front disc brakes powder coated B&M Pro ratchet shifter 5" Tacho Blue & Silver Steering wheel with new Boss kit Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pro Tyres Other Items Tubbed rear end by Taverna Chassis Tubbes, parcel shelf & Spare door panels all Aluminium with pattern pressed in Shortened 9” diff 31 spline axle Richmond diff gears 5.14 Centreline convo pro's 15X14 rims Centreline convo pro's 15X3.5 rims Mickey Thompson street tyres rear 29X15.5X15 Moroso Trick Springs Competition Engineering by Moroso Ford racing shockers Chrome master cylinder Tail shaft Transmission Cooler Radiator CD/DVD Player 7” Pop out in dash LCD TV Screen FMX Gearbox Plastic race Seat This car is straight and no rust. Spares Steel boot, Aluminium custom internal door panels with pattern pressed in same as rear stuff, Tails shaft and more As you can see it is not a standard car anymore plenty of hours and money gone into it. Will make a very nice Show or Drag Car. Needs Front & Rear Screen, Rear quarter glass, Brake & Fuel Lines, Tubes for Rear Tyres, Fuel Cell, Wiring (Electrical) And some finishing like putting screws in interior plastics, Aligning doors Phone for any questions 0435 658 832

Getting close to pull the trigger on the shed kit but thinking about colours. I assume Cream all round would be the best choice for internal temps, but not sure if this will look funny. This as opposed to cream walls and gray roof, roller doors and flashings. The other option was cream walls and roller doors, gray roof and flashings if the kit builder allows it, otherwise the doors would be gray too. Has anyone done a cream on cream garage? Our garden shed is done like this but it's not in eye-sight and it's a smaller shed.

She's a Transformer?!

You did not use international forum code of sarcasm. Italics.

I thought so, but I'd rather ask and look noob than do it wrong

It was feeling like it was improving so I did some light work to see if that helped it along, as in light enough to be considered stretching, but I guess in reality, even 50kg is too much for my legs as they are quite weak. I'll be resting it, icing it then working in gentle stretches.

Noob question, and I might be misunderstanding if there's sarcasm in there Boz, but I thought going below parallel was a good thing? I actually find it harder to stop at parallel and it feels like you knees would get flogged out quick doing so.

Her comment was in relation to this Rev.

Probs cause as a vegan/veggo (whichever you are) getting enough lean protein is harder, unless you want to eat a bucket of broccoli?

Well shit Leesh you better get it together! Work out what you respond to. Some people are great self motivators. That is, "f**k this shit I'm going to the gym to smash weights" and off they go. Others need external assistance, "Get off your f**king ass and go to the gym and smash weights" and off they go. Some people work best with a specific goal, drop or gain X kilos by this date, achieve this strength benchmark in this time frame etc etc. Just gotta work out what motivates you and try new things.

You might be burnt out mentally then. Could be time to take a week or two off, eat what you like, not shave your legs, have a Fast and Furious marathon, etc etc Just chill and recharge.