No Crust Racing

I thought this too, BUT I had that rattle before I adjusted the pedal. The pedal adjust came after I rebuilt the slave and master and removed the damper, the noise was there before that, straight after the clutch swap. When I get a chance I'll jack the rear up and do some testing and get under the car to record the noise and look around. Any other ideas? EDIT: That's not too say the pedal didn't already need adjustment though from everything having been replaced/new.

Recently replaced the clutch in my Silvia. Also machine flywheel, new throw out bearing, new pivot ball, new spiggot bush, rebuilt the slave and master and removed the damper. Clutch is Xtreme HD Organic. Two things I noticed. 1) There appears to be a fair bit of vibration coming through the clutch pedal, (keep in mind I've removed the damper) so I assume the box is vibrating and it's vibrating up the hardline to the master which I can feel through the pedal? I've adjusted the clutch pedal so there's also the chance that the TO bearing is making light contact with the pressure plate if I've adjusted it too much? 2) There appears to be some sort of rattle/vibration in the higher revs, sometimes 3-4k onwards sometimes not at all. I'm not sure if it's something else in the car and is a coincidence or if it's coming from the clutch. If I put the car in neutral and rev it it's not there, it's only when it's in gear. Based on my understanding, the clutch is always in contact with the flywheel until the pedal is pressed so it shouldn't be the clutch disk or pressure plate as it only happens in gear. I'm going to put it up on stands when I get a chance and get under the car while someone does a few revs in gear and listen. Any ideas before I get to that point? It's a rapid metal sound, almost like a card in your spokes but more metallic and a bit faster. This video sounds close (this is not my car) but I only get this around 3k rpm in 2nd or 3rd (so far in testing) and it goes away higher in the revs. Clutch is fully out when it occurs.

Took is "reasonably" easy over the weekend but after 15mins driving the Silvia my hammy started to twinge more (from using the clutch) it's ridiculous. Gave it some self massage later that night but I can't see me being able to return to squat/dl for a while yet (without aggravating it).

That's pretty cool. http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/maple-a-one-gage

Are you going to pinch holes in the rear bar or banking on tucking it up super tight to the body? I'm interested in DIYing a rear to go with my front so I'll be interested to see how you tackle it. I can fit a flat floor though if I want as I'm just tooling around on club days.

Does the car have a flat under body? If not you need to be careful you aren't creating a parachute.

Did you have your injections Leesh? I've got a physio appointment today where she's expecting me to run on a treadmill for a while an see how it all looks (gait anaylsis) but I'm in two minds about if I do it given the hammy/lower back. Speaking off, given I've done no leg work for well over a week now, no walking, nothing. I've even been bending over very carefully (weight on the other leg) and just generally protecting the hammy as much as I can, the twinge is slowly subsiding little by little. When the twinge is gone from every day activity I'll get into some stretching for it and take it from there, this is what I mean when I say reset the area which I think I mentioned once before. Stop ALL activity, wait, stretch, begin build up activities etc. Takes a while but seems to work. I also had a fairly uncomfortable myo session including some dry needling that actually made me jump a few times and I never have before so it was fairly tender in there.

Huh? If that's a joke I'm not following, but it's still early and I slept badly...

Simple notepad file on tablet. I run endomondo also to keep track of time spent and rest periods and check email, facebook during breaks and sometimes youtube clips on form. I'm at home though so using a tablet to play my music and record notes doesn't seem as nerdy when you are flying solo.

Just get a decent shop, the ones I tried locally here are monkeys so I did it myself, took forever but hopefully because I took my time and cared it came out ok

Don't worry, you'll go faster than me anyway, toe will make no difference when the driver is a ham sandwich (me). Would you try doing the alignment yourself? as that was why I started this thread.

OK sweet, will mention it to the concreter. Much obliged gents.

Is the pump like a crane attachment or a big ass hose? As the truck would be 40m+ away from the slab site.

On the advice of other S13 drivers I ended up with almost -3 fron and -1.5 rear camber, and total 2mm toe out front and total 2mm toe in rear, Castor I'm not sure, as much as I could get was the advice. The toe will be interesting and may be finessed at the track.

Any rough ideas on the cost of a pump? Can't imagine it'd take long to lay this slab so we'd only be hiring one for a few hours.

If the wheel hits the firewall you've got other problems...

I'll have a chat to the concreter and see what we can come up with.

Admittedly sleep is not great lately, but we have a 4mth old so that's to be expected. I've actually been eating more of late, specifically protien. I'v considered switching to a 3 day split with upper and lower body split on M/F and W for lighter assistance work. I dislike splits like that though because missing a session as I sometimes do, is more costly.

There's only double gate access down the side of my block, you'd get a car down there but not sure about a concrete truck, plus the weight would absolutely f**k my lawn. Or is there some kind of pump I can hire are you saying? As you can see I know SFA about concreting.

Cheers, started getting some numbers for local concreters so should have some indicative pricing soon. The real pain will be that wee can't get a concrete truck down there and it's 40m+ from the front of the block to the front of where the shed will be. Good times ahead.

How often have you had him doing deads or dead assistance exercises?

Still avoiding any leg work until this twinge stops and my lower back comes good, it's very slowly improving. I took on the more is more approach last night with the exercises. On the 116kg bench set I only got 4 reps and I was annoyed as I seem to have this tendency of doing something once and then not being able to back it up as I got 5 last time. So I took a 1 minute break then got 2 more reps, then took another break and got one more and then took another break and got one more rep out. So I got my 8reps at 116 but over a few sets. More is more. I managed almost 7 chins at 22.5 which I was happy with but took a break and squeezed out 3 more to make sure I got at least the target number of reps at the weight, and in this case a few more. Got 6 reps at 35kg on the dips, took a break squeezed out the last 2. I will take that approach moving forward and when I fail to make 8 reps I will just make them up over a few more sets, the fact I can weight a min and do more reps of anything means I am not pushing myself anywhere near the limit. As in, if I was absolutely maxing out, a 1 min break would not allow me to do 1-3more reps. I do have to keep in mind I do these exercises 3 times a week though so it's not a case of absolute balls to the wall go for it everytime.

Is that going to be any better than me just painting it myself.

I'll see if clear roof sheets are an option, these kits seem cheap because they are bulk ordered with no flexibility. Hadn't considered polished concrete, what is going to be more cost effective? I want to minimise the dust and stop oil staining it. I usually put old carpet down also, at least under the track car lol

Cheers, will get a quote through those guys too. Yeah just a workshop for my track car, and will be doing some vehicle wrecking/repair work in there as well. So not frequently in and out of it. Here's what's in the quote, I can post the drawing also. MAIN COMPONENTS ROOF CLADDING 0.42 Corro bmt - 0.48 Corro tct WALL CLADDING 0.35 Corro bmt - 0.40 Corro tct COLUMNS C15015 "C" Purlin, Fixed with heavy duty plates and bolts RAFTERS C15015"C" Purlin, Fixed with heavy duty plates and bolts PURLINS & GIRTS TS064.75 purlin fixed with heavy duty framing teks GUTTER Quad DOWNPIPES To ground level As for joins, here's the gallery. http://bestsheds.com.au/photogallery I shyed away from laser light sheets as I thought they were weaker (hail damage) and discolour and look shit over time. The centre roller door section is not removable on this kit unfortunately as I did ask. I know bigger is better but I only have so much space to work with, could go wider than 7m but then I'm into custom size territory and the prices seem to go up, this is the best kit I've found to fit my space.