Jump to content
SAU Community

No Crust Racing

Members
  • Posts

    10,407
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    55
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. Did you did the clutch fan? I thought consensus was it was very difficult to get anything to cool as well?
  2. Oh I didn't post it. Here
  3. Earlier pic shows a bracket that comes with the kit. You bolt it on, tack then go from there.
  4. Spoke to a mate of mine who gave me some pointers, ground back, smoother out and went again. Tested belting it with a hammer after grinding the weld down initially and it stayed put so atleast there was some penetration there previously. Much happier this time, should clean up and paint up nicely.
  5. Not a lot of fully floating rotors around for these calipers. I've committed to Z33/33R Brembos for now but I'll keep that in mind. Can maybe pop some springs in if needed as a stop gap if needed?
  6. Had been putting off the caliper welding as it made me a bit nervous, just thought stuff it last night and had a crack but didn't really prep enough so the bead came out a bit high/cold. Been told to pre-heat this time and go higher on the amps. The back side I had started to tidy up to see how it looked, looked surprisingly decent to me, but I'm super amateur. No cracks in it this morning and it didn't come off when I hit it with a hammer (as I've seen them do on YT when they are too cold) but being a caliper bracker I will get myself a dremel type thing and grind the weld out and have another go with more heat in the gun and some pre-heating of the materials then post heating to reduce stresses. When done my plan is to drop them in the ultrasonic for a clean up then a lick of paint. All learning =\
  7. Ahh righto, cheers
  8. Nice, He was suggesting RS front and maybe SR or Type D rears, so I will likely end up with that sort of setup. What rear rotors do you use?
  9. I'll ask, I don't mind giving the HFMs a try, but I also won't say no to Attkd as they have been tested ,ore from what I can see.
  10. Can't run the Attakd it seems, they don't do a 350z rotor which is a different hat height according to the specs i can find on 33R Vs 350Z rotors. I'm inclined to give them a go, if they are shit I'll try something else. I've always liked a bit of R&D
  11. It does make the rear end stiffer, as does solid bushings etc, but as part of this job you would tuck the subframe up into the car more and adjust the angle of the whole thing to improve roll centre and anti-squat geometry. Silvia was a lot more planted in the rear after I did that (but with very little power, so we'll see what I think with new engine).
  12. Made some progress on the knuckle, have all the bushes out of one of them at least, bit of a learning curve in how to position the knuckle in the press and support it. That angled arm was a pain the socket appeared to be going in squarely but appears to have jagged the edge in one spot so I will have to clean up that burr. The noise it makes when the bush starts to give is a bit disconcerting lol I stood off to the side and had some safety glasses on. Also as per my other thread, HFM rotors, good bad ugly? HFM.Parts 324mm Front Two Piece Rotors Suits: 350Z Z33, Skyline V35
  13. I've grabbed some 350z Brembos for the Silvia and am looking at rotor options, I was just going to grab some DBA 4000 series and good pads and call it a day as it's a lighter car already, but have seen these are not too much more for a bit of weight saving. Can't really justify DBA 2 piece prices. Car will be on slicks and will have a little bit of poke depending on state of tune. Who has used them for track work? I'll be doing sprint style driving. I see some people have pad knock back issues with 2 piece rotors though. HFM.Parts 324mm Front Two Piece Rotors Suits: 350Z Z33, Skyline V35
      • 1
      • Like
  14. I've grabbed some 350z Brembos for the Silvia and am looking at rotor options, I was just going to grab some DBA 4000 series and good pads and call it a day as it's a lighter car already, but have seen these are not too much more for a bit of weight saving. Can't really justify DBA 2 piece prices. Car will be on slicks and will have a little bit of poke depending on state of tune. Who has used them for track work? I'll be doing sprint style driving. I see some people have pad knock back issues with 2 piece rotors though. HFM.Parts 324mm Front Two Piece Rotors Suits: 350Z Z33, Skyline V35
  15. I can use it to replace all the bushes as I'm going on the car then sell it on easily enough. $180 for 20T is a good buy IMO.
  16. I guess it's a sign I'll change those bushes, this came up on Market place so snapped it up
  17. No Crust Fabrication hard at it last night getting to work on the rear caliper adaptors, feels weird to cut shit up. Seems to look like the install photos on the GKtech website? I will have a little test with the cut tabs to dial the welder in. I was going to get a mate to do it, but if I shy away from every welding project I will never learn and big thick steel is more forgiving. Maybe I will just take it around to his place and have a go with his guidance... There's always just that thought in the back of your mind that if you don't do a good job your calipers might fly off 0_0 Unpacked all the calipers and one of the front calipers has a shit coating so that will likely go back for swap as I wasn't planning on painting them.
  18. Not bad. All new pins/clips, seals etc, powder coated black for a bit over 1k delivered for the set. Have GKtech weld on rear caliper adaptors to go on also. Buy my old my old brakes or dash/interior
  19. Some spares arrived yesterday, to my untrained eye they look decent. The block is a legit virgin bore at 86mm. Crank shows no signs of spun bearings or scoring but will need to be "UV magna flux crack tested" (copy paste from my builder I am not that smart). If it checks out then that's the real gem of this lot as they are getting harder to find. Not sure if I'll build a little DIY forgie on the side or just tuck it all away "just in case".
  20. Yep I spoke with one and he said that. The front isn't too bad, you can still get them, but if they break the rear quarter glass I would likely go Perspex as they are no longer made. I'm thinking I just get them to do it at the fabricators? Rather than do it here then transport it.
  21. The hardrace ones still look like a good middle ground then? I need to go look at a cage frmo one of the car club members who had it done where I was looking. Then I need to remove more shit behind the dash bar and decide how best to get the glass out.
×
×
  • Create New...