No Crust Racing

OK to try and time it while cranking? I'd resolved to pull all the timing gear off again and start from scratch. Everything was fine until I did this swap, and the CAS is back where it was so I'd say it's off a few teeth in a few spots.

It will take a good few minutes to decipher what you just said, I'm not quite that savvy with anatomy. Out of the two locations I "think" you mean, I'd say it's the lower of the two.

Swapped my CA18 intake cam for an exhaust cam and fitted adjustable gears at the same time. Took pics of the timing marks and was pretty sure the car was at TDC on the comp stroke, confirmed by the piston location (removed spark plug) and cam lobe and valve location when I removed the rockers, so I know it wasn't TDC on the exhaust stroke. Put it all back together and now it will crank but won't fire, managed to get it to fire and idle roughly with a bit of throttle but as it was running like crap I shut it down. I also marked the CAS ad tried advancing and retarding it, no dice. I'd have thought it'd still start if a cam or both cams were 1 or even 2 teeth off. Thoughts?

Dilemma gents. Shoulder twinged bit after a spirited rock skimming session when the family was up last, thought little of it, but it hasn't gone away and continues to get a bit worse. Cross chest tricep extensions seem to aggravate it the most so I've ditched those but tonight it was just unhappy with everything and feels quite tender so I bailed on the session. Sensation is notable around the back portion of the top of shoulder running down and over the top/back portion ot he bicep and into the elbow. At the moment, I'm icing it up. Thoughts?

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Another benching question. Since changing my form and pinching my shoulder blades together, I find I'm only contacting the bench at two points on my shoulders. is it normal for those to be quite tender? I'm assuming I'm just getting used to having the pressure on those areas specifically. Bench padding isn't stellar either. Managed 8-8-6 last night, it's a weird feeling though as the strength starts to wane. There's no discomfort in the chest/shoulders just lack of pushing power.

Those youtube vids are very informative Nick, thanks.

I didn't feel as though my elbows were flared and I've never had shoulder issues, it was only recently when I strained my shoulder a bit by throwing things for hours with my family at the lake and then it wouldn't go away, just a minor strain but I thought it was odd it wasn't leaving. So I started looking at bench technique as a possible re-infalammation point if you get me. Doing it the "proper" way cost me a few reps on the final set at the same weight so I'm weaker this way but if it's better for me that's fine as it's not about numbers for me. I'll keep at it for a bit and see how I go. My biggest concern is not straining my neck. That said, its fairly common for me to have to drop weight or drop reps when I find I have a technique issue and then fix it, I usually find I'm back to where I was in a few weeks tops.

Thanks Nick. With Bench I have found that if I do as instructed and squeeze my shoulder blades together I don't get the same pump I was (with a flat back and the bar coming down higher up my body, but I think that's because I was using more front of shoulders) and I also find that my legs seem to do little, if I push through them it doesn't seem to help or hinder.

Using this as an example for Bench. http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/betteru9.htm Talks about locking down the shoulders, and I've read/watched countless sources that say you should be trying to squeeze your shoulder blades toegther and puffing out your chest. I find that doing so seems to strain my neck a bit. Using this as an example of Rows. http://www.bodybuilding.com/exercises/detail/view/name/bent-over-barbell-row How far forward are we supposed to lean and is the bar being brought straight up to the chest or up to the waist, as I've seen both done. He's going to the waist in that pic, so moving up on an angle. I've also read different things about if the grip should be pronated or supinated on this. Using this as an example of SLDL. http://www.bodybuilding.com/exercises/detail/view/name/stiff-legged-barbell-deadlift How far forward are people leaning and are you keeping the bar close to your shins as you do it or allowing it to hang under your chest where it naturally wants to hand with gravity?

Morning gents. Been re-assessing my routine and form lately so I come to you all with some questions. Can somebody post what they consider to be correct technique for Flat Bench Press. I've always done it a certain way and have never had issues, even back in the day when I could do a decent number. Now I'm questioning that technique and want to re-assess it. I've had a go at a few youtube video techniques and found that I had to drop 3-4 reps of my last set to keep the form strict plus it's a bit different to how I was doing it so it's normal (in my head) to be a bit worse off when you make a change or improve on form. Same guys for Barbell Rows, and by that I'm talking 45 degree bend version, whatever that's strictly called, and also for the Stiff Leg Dead Lift. Throw up some videos, I'd like to see/hear what the consensus is. As an aside I jumped on one of those scales that measures BF percentage the other day and got 10.5%, I do not have any form of diet but I do make what I consider sensible eating choices. How accurate are those scales generally? I'm 183-186cm (can't remember which) and currently about 82-83kg is over 10% considered high? I wouldn't call myself fat but I am 30 now and I do have a touch more softness in the mid section. My last general health checkup showed my cholesterol to be 3.7 (of whatever unit of measurement that is) the Dr seemed happy with that and said anything below 5.5 is great so I don't think I'm at risk or anything. I'm not trying to lean out or drop weight/fat but just want to make sure I'm not too high on the BF %. Also, a bit of a product review. I mate of mine had some of a product called "Craze" and I tried one serving of it. I'd say you definitely have more energy when using it, but the downside is that energy lasted for about 6hrs for me so keep your bed time in mind, luckily it was a Friday night so it didn't matter. Given it has something like 417% of your RDI of Vitamin C and a whole bunch of other things in it I have no idea about, I've got no intention of using it aside from testing it for the fun of it. I cant imagine it would be good for you long term, and I think it says on the packet not to use it for more than 12 weeks or something.

About ohh I'd say 4 years ago I sold my 96 33 GT-R V-Spec To a guy up Sydney way named Chris. There's a few pics from my for sale thread HERE, the original plates were UCC-400, in terms of anything to make it distinct, it had Volk LEs on it and had Series 3 headlights He added some cam gears and got it re-tuned not long after buying it. He collected it from Albury and drove it home. Adding those details in case it jogs somebodies memory. Just wondering if there's any chance someone knows him. He did say when he bought it from me that he'd contact me if he was selling it, and he did at one stage and we talked but I never heard back. Then over time, changed email/phones etc and lost his details.

I looked at those Falkens when I bought my Federal RS-R's all the reviews pointed to the RS-R being a better tyre for the money, in my case with only 235 17s it was only $640 for a full set. The UTQG is 140 on them as opposed to 200 for the Falkens. I can say of the RS-R's that new they are at least as quick as worn out RE55s on my car and they last longer than proper semis as they are a high performance road tyre rather than a genuine R comp. I've heard that they can struggle on heavier cars though and will over heat quickly, less of an issue for me.

I've got a donkey tuning mine too, me That's why I bought a CA, cheap and tough for me to butcher.

While I realise that's not a good thing, it looks cool as hell - no pun intended.

Cheers for the considered and lengthy response. Car is factory turbo so not an NA, I'm not overly concerned about piston temp, but I know the SAFC has the Decel air function and the thought occurred to me that I might be able to put it to good use, though it doesn't seem to be the case. That's really all the thread was about, can I use that setting for some extra cooling and it looks like the answer is know. If I get concerned I'll just swap out my 13 row cooler for the 19 row cooler I've got here and I'd say that move would do a lot more, but it requires work, so my thought was if the SAFC has the function and it's literally a 5 min job to set it then why not, but it doesn't seem to be the case so I'll leave it as is. As for the overlap, simply something I'd read and I'm no expert, you get a small bonus as there's more time available for fresh air to flow in and out. When I get it on the dyno, my aim will be mid range more so than top end but that's a completely new topic for another thread Cheers

I bought one of these from this seller on ebay, this is the exact item and seller I used. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-200SX-S1...6#ht_1197wt_931 It was fitted once and I drove the car without issue after fitting my Z32 and injectors while I organised to get the car dyno tuned, car started straight away and AFRs were on the rich side so plenty safe - I have a wideband installed. It has the ZIF socket and the EPROM, both in original packaging without any issues. For this to work you must have a Z32 and GT-R injectors, though It ran fine with my 460cc RX-7 injectors also. Price includes delivery which is a few bucks cheaper and will arrive sooner than buying it from the original seller.

I wont be going this route based on everything I've read and heard, the mix is plenty rich in my opinion anyway at 11.5 at its leanest as I wanted some headroom. We may also end up with some more overlap when I put the DET EXhaust Cam on the intake side and dial in the gears which would mean more fresh air coming in sooner on the exhaust stroke which would also aid cooling.

I've had a look around at pricing and have dropped the price to 12,500 ONO accordingly. Also adding interior pics as requested.

Seems the consensus on NS is not to do it based on EGTs and the amount of fuel needed to have any notable effect.

I'm aware they can be cut off but I do not have that level of control with the management I have. I could test this poperly but I'm not sure if the dyno I use has an EGT probe. I'm in two minds about it, My dads mate who builds the mufflers for the V8 supercars said the over run absolutely cooks the mufflers but I'm guessing there's some benefit.

Just had a random thought, willing to get laughed at if I'm way off the mark, but if I can add fuel on throttle close events, under a given throttle percentage, is that going to help in piston cooling or is it going to cause more backfire and higher EGTs? The SAFC II has a Decel Air setting which is used to add some fuel in those situations, for avoiding stall when using an Atmo BOV, my BOV is plumbed back in, so I'm thinking I can use those two throttle points to add some fuel in when the throttle is closed and get some extra piston cooling as the car is a track car (CA18 with a GT2560 on 16-17psi). As for WOT mixtures, it doesn't go above 11.5 for safety so there's plenty of fuel in the map as is. Forgot to add, I already have an oil cooler, oil temps generally don't exceed 85-90 on a real hard session. Was just thinking that if I have the functionality and it will help then why not.

No longer required due to company car. 149,900ks - Full 150k service completed which included oil, oil filter, new long life spark plugs, new front pads, new coolant, new brake fluid, and I also had the diff and gearbox serviced as I was planning on keeping this car for much longer. Receipts and complete log books included as is a second key and alarm remote. Car is in very good condition and has cruise, dual zone climate, leather steering wheel, 17" alloys, reversing sensors, Fairmont gauges and interior (white lighting instead of green), in dash 6-stacker, rear spoiler, ZF 6spd auto, and front and side airbags all as standard. As for accessories, It has had tinted windows, a tow pack, a bonnet protector, dash and floor mats, and a factory Auxiliary input for the stereo added. It's a great car to drive and returns excellent fuel economy for a full sized family car due to the 6spd auto. The car does have a few minor blemishes, mainly in the way of stone chips and paint blemishes on the front end from highway driving but nothing major for the age and kilometers and additional photos can be provided, inspections are also welcome. I have not had a road worthy completed at this stage but I cannot imagine it will need anything other than tyres as it has been well maintained. $13,000 ONO Car is located in Albury Wodonga and has Victorian Rego Should you have any queries feel free to message me or contact on 0488 442 734. Cheers

Hmm, think a different boost controller will really make that much of a difference in how fast it comes on? I'm not using a bleed valve, I'm using one of those turbo tech boost taps which "supposedly" holds shut longer so the boost should ramp up pretty much as quick as the turbo can spool for the given amount of exhaust gas - though given it's a spring and ball bearing there's no reason to think it isn't being unseated slightly as boost increases.