No Crust Racing

For the price and ease of installation trans cooler is a good thing, Jake you're handy with a spanner so you would have no trouble installing one, I did my PWR kit (165 eBay) by myself no hassles and I'm an IT Bum.

This took 45 seconds to find. I imagine eBay and Gumtree would have better deals? http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/ford-falcon-2003-11879821?cr=2&eapi=2&Range=Price:Min,5000~1|Mileage:Min,200000|Year:2002,Max|Seats:Min,Max|EngineSize:Min,Max&silo=Stock&sort=~Price&VNAV=A&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282%204294966463%204294966285%204294966274&vertical=Car&distance=25 Might seem like high ks but I would hazard a guess and say you would not get an early VY/late model VX (same year model as the falcon) with under 200ks for 4k... and that's before bargaining. XR6T has sheeeet loads of torque but you will be paying more than a few grand extra to get it, plus it needs premium fuel, higher service costs etc. Not necessarily what you want in a daily when you already have a turbo car to play with. If 5K is the absolute limit you wont get an xr6t, and if you can stretch another K or so then you will get a much better NA BA and you'd stll be a couple k away from even the oldest clapped out xr6t's.

I found that mine used quite a bit of fuel when towing if I followed the handbook and towed in 3rd, with a trans cooler you can comfortably tow in 4th at 110 and the fuel econ was heaps better then, around 12L/100 on the hume which is nice and flat mostly. (Silvia plus tools, fuel).

Jake: From that list you would be mad to go past a Falcon. The wagon's have a better rear end and don't suffer the same camber issues as commos and the boxes don't suffer from the same heat issues as commos (but they do have issues - read on) A cheap trans cooler is still a good thing as BA/BFs are still known to have issues with coolant and trans fluid mixing and ruining the box A trans cooler allows you to bypass the problem area like I did (PWR kit was 165). In the BA this is because the trans cooler piping runs through the radiator and in the BF they moved that out to a heat exchanger on the side of the block but it still has the potential to leak and mix the fluids. If you wound up with a 6spd BF you would have a hefty repair bill, the rule of thumb seems to be to treat the heat exchanger like a service item and replace it at set intervals, they're only 120 or so. Fords will be cheaper per year model so you will get a newer Falcon vs Commos for the same dollar value, they make a great daily and drive comfortably with plenty of space (I had a BA 4spd, towed the Sil with it, and now have a BF 6spd, yet to tow but much nicer box). Both cars can get good fuel consumption if driven respectfully and the Falcon makes more torque lower in the rev range which is ideal for towing. If you do a lot of towing you might also want to consider better pads as the BA/BFs can be hard on pads rotors (I have not had this issue as I drive like a Nanna but I've heard about it plenty). I was a Holden man, and still am for V8s, but when it comes to 6cyl cars I am thoroughly converted to Falcons for daily/tow duties.

Greg I'm running your pads again after being happy with the bang for buck the first time around. As it turns out I've rigged up some basic brake ducting into the wheel arch area and am going to use these rotors, I came across a good deal on new slotted anyway and bought those but will keep as spares.

Yeah I'm comfortable enough with it to give them a go, if they suck I have new ones as backups.

By go off without slots I'm more so talking about the pads having nowhere to expel gas and debris, which then builds up and can end up giving a warped feel on the rotor. I've going to use them as is and have got a deal on some new ones too goo to pass up so will keep those for the next set of pads.

Any thoughts on how much quicker they will go off? I am going to install so brake ducts this time around.

It's been suggested that it might be better to just use them as they are and not decrease the strength of the rotor any more by slotting it again, any ideas on what performance loss I might see from running non slotted rotors? I am planning on running brake ducts from the front of the car.

Hi guys, Car is S13 with S15 slotted vented rotors and S15 calipers + R32 GT-R master cylinder - car is track oriented. Used up the last set of pads so got some new ones and dropped rotors off to be machined. They were heavily grooved but the brake shop said no worries as they were still above minimum thickness, he did mention I might need to have an engineering place touch up one or two slots as the driver side inner was a bit wiped. The below pic is what I ended up with. As you can see there's still a very notable groove on the outer edge and the slots are baically gone, this is the "good" one in that it still has "some" slots visible. He didn't charge me but said to go deep enough to get the groove out would have gone below minimum thickness and that at the moment I can just re-slot them and get another few thousand k's out of them. He didn't seem concerned about the groove and said they end up with that sort of thing on street cars all the times. What are your thoughts Brake Gurus? Excuse photo, only have iPhone 3Gs on me at the moment. Cheers

Confirmed they are getting through.

You know it!

I've resorted to harassing some poor guy in the for sale section who has a car sales ad up, followed up with a nice PM and a free bump for his ad lol

Great looking car mate, looks to be in great condition and well priced. Free Bump

It says this car is no longer available for sale =\

Just link me to the ad Terry and I'll inquire using the sidebar, then let me know if the email turns up on your end.

Is anyone listing a car for sale at the moment? I'd like to test if my email inquiries are getting through as I've phoned a few people after not receiving any answer to my email only to have them tell me they never received it. Good chance for a free plug for your car.

OK don't shoot me for using the wrong term slides/guides whatever But there are locating pins for the pads in 4 piston calipers, if these are catching the pad it could be dragging is all I'm suggesting. These are what I mean. I didn't do anything with those or clean them up when the new pads went in. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/uploads/monthly_05_2010/post-40659-12733200885677_thumb.jpg I'll call some local engineers and see what I can do, looks like if it happens then I won't be getting another machine out of these rotors but given I'm using a harder comp pad on a soft, street spec rotor i'll be happy to get 4-5000ks out of them. Anyone else wanna wade in on this?

Thanks mate, all sorted

Cheers for the feedback. To answer some of your qestions/respond to your points.. - I just realised that when I put those calipers on (yes 4 pot s15 calipers also) that I did not lubricate the slides so I will do that as a first step. - Boots look good and it's no using fluid so no leaks anywhere, I'll hold off on a rebuild unless this issue gets worse/doesn't go away. - Do you know if a rotor can actually be re-slotted in that way? I'm assuming it just comes down to whether or not there's minimum thickness in it but the brake shop guy was reluctant to do it saying go to an engineering place instead. - I'll be putting in some ducts to aid cooling.

Car is S13, running S15 280mm slotted/vented RDA rotors up front with QFM A1RM pads and TRW 600 fluid home track is Winton which is primarily right turns. Pads were gone after 2500ks so getting some new ones and pulled rotors to get them machined. Noted that the driver side rotor has had a harder life and in particular the inner side has really copped it. So first question, is this just due to the circuit? Wheel bearings look OK on both sides. Other thing to note is the driver side wheel arch has the oil cooler in front of it and I slotted the inner guard so air can flow through properly, would the increased heat be an issue? I thought about pad drag, but the car isn't pulling to one side. Now, the next question is it possible/safe to have the slots re-grooved in the rotor, Brake shop said there's enough meet on the pad to machine them but the slots on the inner driver side would be almost gone at that point. Is it just time for new rotors? Cheers guys

I'd rather stick with something that has copious local support for a daily. After having had a GTST and a GT-R as daily drives I know how annoying it can be when it comes time to get some simple things done or get parts quickly when needed. In the case of the V35, for no real perceivable gain that I can see, plus in my opinion they are quite fugly

Yeah Supra driving Steve, back in your box (I even went to eBay UK specifically and tried before making the above comment).

I know, my point was that was the closest match.

No luck with that Seller name? There is a Torques listed in the US but nothing for sale.