No Crust Racing

Ahh, I wonder if this is the same issue the Innovates have and the problem lies with the Bosch sensor itself and not the control units? I'd imagine you'd have no issues with warranty.

Sorry just getting back to this, but it seems you have it figured out anyway. So you have confirmed it's a bad sensor? Which kit did you buy?

Well get cracking - pun definitely intended...

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/dealer/details.aspx?R=11388224&keywords=R50&tsrc=allcarhome&__Ntk=CarAll&__Nne=15&__Dx=mode%20matchany&__D=R50&silo=1011&seot=1&__sid=130BCCFF78AE&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282%204294962746%204294962415&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__Qpb=1&__Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Cr=0&__Ntt=R50&trecs=4 230kw/750Nm

Welcome back Matty! Interesting view, what are you basing that off? Garrett themselves recommend one to keep oil pressure to below 45 or so psi at max engine speeds http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_optimization.html#Oil Supply & Drain I definitely have oil pressure higher than that on the track, and usually see 90+psi on a cold start, granted that's at the oil filter relocator sender. Consensus seems to be that if they smoke on idle, oil pressure is the reason (ensuring PCV is operating correctly and that the CHRA is at the correct angle relative to the road. I think for the cost I'll run one.

Cheers for that.

It came with a braided hose so not sure what the factory one had in it =\ What's the 1-1.5mm suggestion based off?

Morning Gents, I'm having no luck over at NS and tend to get better responses here, even for the Silvia 0_0 I'm in the process of fitting a JDM T28BB to the CA and I've read a bit about the need for an oil restrictor to avoid having the oil seals weep under the sustained high pressure. What size restrictor is needed? I've got a braided oil feed for it but I'm unsure of what size hose it is, as I understand this dictates the restrictor required. How do I tell? Cheers

There's a few sellers on eBay and with the changing exchange rate they can range from mid 180 to about 200ish. Mine was 192 for example. As for which it depends on personal preference, both use the same sensor but the Innovate can be re-calibrated where as the AEM cannot. The Innovate has reportedly suffered from a few quality issues and issues with requiring re-calibration more regularly than might be considered normal, dunno if that's still the case though. The Innovate is a touch more expensive but also appears to have better output options, the AEM is simpler but appears to have less issues.

You can get individual harness bits from AEM as needed if it's an AEM that is,, I dunno about Innovates.

Great footage Dane, hard to believe they're an NA 4cyl 0_0 IS that the same day you busted your arm? If so got on-board?

I've got a braided kit for it, I'll just get a restrictor for it as a safety measure. Fingers crossed it stays in one piece on it's first spool...

I've been having a word to a few turbo places. They had the following to say. 3an lines can use a restrictor inline and should do so. Some T28 BB's have a restrictor in the oil feed port from factory though. A restrictor should be used if the turbo smokes a but on idle (as the seals are dynamic). Oil in the inlet snout and outlet pipe on the comp side is fairly normal and does not warrant a rebuild unless the comp blades are damaged or there's excessive binding or contact with the housings at all. Usually this is just breathed in from the PCV system. So at this stage I might just bolt it on and see what happens, for the price I paid, it's worth having a go as if it's good it'll be the cheapest working BB in bloody history.

I was thinking the same thing in so far as if it blows there's usually oil in the turbine housing, however a lot of other resources, granted just google searches, indicate oil in the comp intake out outlet pipes is also sign of blown oil seals. Any thoughts on my restrictor theory? If I remove the housings is there anything in particular that would be a dead giveaway? I don't want to go ahead and fit it just to have to pull it off again.

Morning gents, I bought a turbo advertised as S14 and as I understand it 99% of S14s were bush bearing. It was listed as being rebuilt previously but possibly requiring oil seals. This seemd perfect to me as I've wanted to try my hand at a DIY rebuild. However, I've spent some time cleaning it up and the tag reads 14411-91F00, it has 6 bolt housings, and has the cast divider between the wastegate port and turbine exhaust flow which appears to indicate it's a Ball Bearing Unit from an S15. I understand that BBs cannot just be rebuilt in the same way standard bush bearing turbo's can, as in DIY? I note that the oil feed line did not have a restrictor in it, I thought that BBs should have a restrictor? The turbo spins OK and the blades are in very good condition, there is no free play in any direction, up/down/left/right in/out. I noticed that there was oily residue on the inlet snout and on the outlet of the comp housing as well as around the oil feed line fitting. I'm wondering two things, does this indicate the oil seals are blown? Is it possible that too much pressure from the oil feed (no resitrictor) was forcing oil past the seals and that it could run fine with the right pressure? Is there any way for me to inspect it myself to determine if it's really stuffed? Can just oil seals be replaced or does it require an entire cartridge? Cheers

Ahh yes that's right, it's been 3000k's of track time since I did that last and she's an old bus so worth me doing it again.

I'm chatting with Greg from QFM about thisalso, he also asked about the wheel bearings. Can I test them easily? I might look into a seal kit, they were second hand when I got them and have been abused since.

Hey guys, attached are some pics of my front driver side pads that came out of an S13 Silvia (CA18). I’ll detail the setup and my questions below. PADS are QFM A1RM Car has only 165rwkw and runs around 1:43 around Winton. Runs Federal 595 RS-R Rubber (235 R17s) Runs TRW Lucas 600 Fluid Runs RDA Slotted/Ventilated Rotors up front, solid slotted rears Runs S15 calipers up front, standard rear Runs R32 GT-R Master Cylinder Standard brake lines Pads have done about 5 track days, 1 drift day, and 2 DECA days and very minimal street driving. All up under 2500ks total. Why would only the inner driver side pad wear like this? The passenger side pads show wear similar to the outer pad from the driver side and appear to have some meat left. Rear pads are fine. There’s clearly something amiss here to have that much difference in pad wear from the inner to outer pad, as well as such different pad wear side to side as the passenger side shows even wear inner to outer pad. Thoughts?

No wonder it's not finished!

How many people do you need to turn a spanner...

Puny Humans!

What are your thoughts on running more front camber and replacing the stock front sway bar?

Great video at Winton, I like that my lines are basically the same as yours, yours are a bit tighter though, and I suspect cleaner Interestingly your car does the same things mine does at the same points on the track, scrub wheels, tail happy etc. Though it's doing it all much faster!

Just on that, you mean rear toe 1mm total static?

Will have to read over lunch, bit long to read on the clock. Something I had stupidly overlooked though is perhaps my entry speed is too high for the car setup, but that's why I want to adjust the setup so I can take the corner faster. This will be especially important when I upgrade my turbo for more killer wasps.