No Crust Racing

I reckon AEM is trying to cover their ass a bit by having it further down to ensure the sensor lasts the warranty period, Bosch on the other hand are producing lovely marketing material with 100,000k service life. Interestingly the AEM manual says 80,000k service life and this is further reduced by heat, leaded fuels, too much oil consumption, etc. Ultimately, I think it will be an issue my cars next owner deals with.

Important to remember mounting angle too, the stock location is great as it doesn't allow moisture to build up easily between the probe and inside of the bung. If you mount it sideways like I did you need to have some angle on it to help stop the moisture build up.

No idea mate as mine came in the kit. eBay prices around 80-90 but I do recall reading that someone got one super cheap through Bursons/AutoBarn/Repco type place. The sensor on it's own is nothing special, just a Bosch 4.2 and they are readily available locally.

Agreed, any o2, either narrow or wide is fine in the stock location on a stock vehicle for quite a while. We're not talking stock vehicles though. Als bare in mind that a narrow band only has to provide a very limited range of measurement so the sensor can take quite a beating and still do this. Bosch also note that the sensor life is reduced by heat, carbon build up, rich mixtures etc. So it seems logical that moving the sensor a little down stream will increase sensor life for a minimal increase in sensor lag. I'm happy to follow AEM's advice on having it further downstream as it makes sense to me. Perhaps that's why Innovates seem to require the free calibration so regularly and have so many issues? Too hot for too long on modified cars (I'm only going on google searches and forum feedback) I cant comment from personal experience. In reality, I'd hazard a guess and say sensor location is only going to increase/reduce sensor life by a minimal percentage so put it wherever is easiest for you to maintain. If it's an Innovate, feedback tends to imply that putting it somewhere you can remove it easily and free air calibrate it makes sense. For me the easiest spot was definitely the de-cat pipe.

You can use the existing o2 sensor location but given both the Innovate and the AEM use the same Bosch sensor which is supposed to be mounted further away from the turbo, it will shorten sensor life. Not the end of the world (only 60-90 to replace) but something to consider if using the stock location for a track car/high boost etc.

Digging up an old thread, wanted to clarify something. 1) As I have my battery and isolator in the same spot do I need both stickers on the car next to each other (plain blue triangle and blue triangle with lightning bolt)? 2) Do I need the lightning bolt sticker if I don't have a remote pull for the isolator? I'm guessing the sticker should go where the pull for the isolator goes, which for me will be right there anyway as I'm going to use the aerial hole. 3) Best place on the rear quarter closest to the battery or on the rear face of the boot lid?

If you or he's worried, can't see a reason why your exhaust guy can't knock up a stainless bung easily enough.

Looked like mild to me, welded into mild pipe and no issues at all. Can't think of how this would be an issue on a stainless pipe. I just dropped a hole saw through the pipe that was a touch larger than the bung so I could recess it in and get a bit of angle (manual wants minimum 10deg to stop moisture build up) Plus I needed some extra clearance.

Update time. Welded the bung in last night and ran the sensor wire up through the cat sensor hole in the floor through the centre console and up behind the dash, what a fun job that was. I had to remove the clip from the gauge side of the sensor wire harness to fit it through the hole. I wrapped up the joined connectors in race tap and hid them away inside the end of the chassis rails to protect it (I mounted my sensor on the de-cat pipe, more on this below). As the manual states, you should aim for 36inchs downstream from the exhaust port on a turbo or high rpm engine. This would have put me just on the edge of my front pipe but seeing as it's so nice compared to my de-cat pipe and the de-cat pipe is easier to remove should I need to I went for this location. One thing I did find is that having it that far downstream does introduce around .5 of a second lag in the readings vs throttle input, bare that in mind when tuning. I'm not sure if AEM's tuning solution offers compensation for this like the Innovate apparently does. If you intend on watching the gauge from your peripheral vision I'd suggest mounting it at your eye line height on the A-Pillar, the gauge readout and coloured LEDs are too small to read easily without looking at them directly, though you may be better at concentrating on the road and keeping tabs on your gauges than me. Info wise it has confirmed my assumptions, a little rich down low and a touch lean up high. Great to have that sort of data readily available. I'm having AEM send me out a new 4 pin harness (the power/ground outputs lead) as two of the pins in mine didn't make good contact and I had to modify it, I've already got it working but I'd rather have a new spare on hand. In the pics below the car is not running so disregarding the reading.

As above, more camber adjustment is only needed if you go stupid low. When the car is lowered it will squat and give you some negative camber, if you have too much it will chew out tyres really quickly. -1 is ok for a well handling street car but it does come at the expense of tyre life, you will need to rotate more regularly to get the most out of your tyres. Buying something new for $1200 is a better option than buying second hand for a couple hundred less, I'd take a warranty on a OK quality new product over no warranty on a second hand brand name product any day. Especially when the BCs are being so well supported locally. You can just go back to your seller direct. As for what else you need that depends on a few things. If you do plan on lowering the car down the track, work out now from other cars around you if you will need camber bushes/arms toe or castor adjustment and get that gear now, especially if you are paying someone to install, cheaper to get it all installed at once and not pay for the labour twice. If you are doing the labour yourself then it doesn't matter so much and you can go ahead and just put the BCs in now and anything else later. Now is a good time to inspect tie rod ends, rack bushes, etc etc and replace anything that is notably perished/damaged/worn. Replacing bushes is a good idea when doing suspension work so you get the most out of the upgrade.

A mate of mine and I bought BC BRs for our S13s, the value was hard to beat. The BR's are larger piston and body than the V1s but come with the same 8/6 spring rate. As you can imagine this is quite firm for an S13 but both cars are 99% track. He's drift and I'm circuit so for me I have them set a bit softer and find them to be quite good for the money. 8/6 in an S13 is also the jap way of going about suspension setup (high spring rates and standard sway bar) and seems to work well enough in my car. When they are set too firm and with max camber (around 2.5-2.7 deg front on my car) they will burn up tyres very quickly. I had HKS HyperMax IIIs on my 33 GT-R and Sydney Kids Bilstien kit on my 33 GTST. The BC's are the easiest to adjust base height wise and also have better camber adjustment than both of the others. I do not doubt that my HKS setup would outlast the BCs in reliability though. I had a top locking nut come loose on my front passenger shock after only 2 track days so keep an eye on them. You will get a noticable knock in the front end if this happens. Also remember there is no camber adjustment on the rears so you will need some offset bushes or adjustable arms. I've had mine in the car for around 18mths but that's oly equated to about 3000k's of driving. Some around town but about 6 motorsport events (DECA, drift, Track day). My mate has been drifting on his every chance he gets (Winton) and driving it as a daily up until just recently when he bought himself another car as a daily. His have had harder use, no leaks that I know of.

Well I had an interesting time last night getting the gauge installed, welding the bung in tonight so the sensor can be hooked up. I couldn't get my gauge to power up, this was for two reasons. 1) Despite the manual saying it wants a switched 10-18v source, it would not power up when connected to a shared circuit (that has other gauges on it) This was testing around 10.9v. I had to wire it up to another circuit that was testing around 11.8v. 2) The 4 pin connector that supplies the power/earth and gives outputs for the 0-5v analogue signal and the digital signal for data logging would not make clean contact with the pins on the gauge, I had to use a scribe and lightly bend the prongs inside the connector as well as slightly angle the pins on the gauge to make clean contact. After that it powered up no worries. I'll have some more info after I weld in 02 sensor tonight. I'd also considered lag as the manual states you need a good 36inches from the exhaust port on a turbocharged or high rpm car, which mine is so that puts the sensor pretty much on my de-cat pipe so I'll also be using the cat sensor hole to bring it into the cabin. At least the sticker went on with no hassles...

Yeah I think the guy I got mine from is still the has the cheapest shipped price, he's back down to 193 delivered, I got it for $192, it went up to $198 for a bit so we're only talking a few bucks either way. KEBAB: How have you found it so far?

Turned up today, even comes with a nice big sticker and as the car is 99% track I love me some rice for it. I found a spare 52mm cup last night so I'll get into mounting wiring etc during the week, need to swing by a mates house and borrow his welder for the bung though. Think I'm just going to attach it to the steering column, I don't have any other spaces left that don't require drilling and my dash is a nice black unmarked/uncracked one (rare for an old S13) so it's not going there. Stereo gear is already removed and houses an SAFC2 and my oil/water temp and oil pressure gauges, A-pillar already has boost on it so seems like the best place to me. Will update.

Just to clear up a few things from the above. The AEM does have fixed calibration, and from what I have read and heard about the Innovates, the free air calibration is one of the sticking points that people dislike, due to various issues they can require a free air calibration numerous times and quite often (will depend on your experience of course but there is a lot of data around supporting the Innovate as being a sub par product these days). They both use the same sensor so you'll be replacing it around the same time anyway as the life span of the bosh 4.2 is the same for both units. The Innovate will give you more accurate readings over it's lifespan though as you can re-calibrate it. I'd rather chuck in another $60-$90 bosh sensor once every few years (which will be longer than the life of the vehicle in my hands anyway) than constantly be removing the sensor to re-calibrate it. How much of a PITA would that be if it's mounted just before the cat(the manual tells you that for high RPM or high boost applications you need 36 inches of clearance from the turbo). The shift in sensor sensitivities might be an issue if you were using the AEM to tune to the ragged edge, but who would be doing that with a $200 gauge? In my instance I don't even have timing control so for me it's simply giving me enough data to keep AFR's safe for a given boost level, I'm not exactly going for every last killerwasp. Neither the Innovate nor the AEM will log another reference point (RPM, vehicle speed etc) against AFR out of the box, both require additional pickups and a controller to do this, but as said not an issue if you are logging through your ECU. The hyper terminal screen shot you showed above is enough for me. Regarding the options for readout, all I need is an simple AFR number, if I ever wanted to go more advanced I'd just hook up the voltage pickup to whatever ECU I had. I'm not sure what else you would really need on a basic car besides a standard afr figure or a lambda value, unless you're talking about being able to handle E85 etc. At under $200 delivered though, this item is hardly aimed at top tier racers using exotic fuels. When it comes down to it, the AEM to me appears to be a slightly simpler product in a few ways and it will only suit certain applications. I'll take that over the more advanced but seemingly less reliable feature set of the Innovate any day.

Must be the same kit, as the one I bought went up to 198 after I got it. You got yours faster though, bastard Let us now how you go with the install.

Looks promising, impressed with freight time so far if this is even remotely accurate. Especially considering I ordered something from the Hardtuned store at the start of August as a gift for a mate and it still hasn't turned up.... Customs clearance processing complete, August 16, 2011, 4:16 pm, AUSTRALIA Customs Clearance, August 16, 2011, 4:01 pm, AUSTRALIA Processed Through Sort Facility, August 16, 2011, 4:00 pm, AUSTRALIA

Cheers, fixed.

Has anyone got a high res version of this, I've googled up a storm with no success and cant remember how I found it last time. Edit to fix missing image *facepalm*

It's on the move. "Your item was processed through our ISC MIAMI FL (USPS) facility on August 13, 2011 at 4:50 pm. The item is currently in transit to the destination. " EDIT: Wow that PLX one looks awesome

Lots of confidence surrounding shipping and genuine products I see lol I've got no reason to doubt the seller, 7600 odd feedback on ebay selling lots of AEM products 99.6% positive feedback, seems pretty good to me. Time will tell

Seller said he shipped pretty much straight away. UPSP Says: Class: Priority Mail International Parcels Status: Electronic Shipping Info Received So they at least know it exists, it goes on to say that this pretty much just means that it's been logged. I'm hoping for delivery in the next eek or two.

Install myself for sure 95% of everything on the Sil has been done by me (that was a big oart of buying something unmodified to start with) though I'll have to go to a mates to borrow his welder. Getting it installed would cost money, that's crazy talk...

As for posting up how it goes, no problem. I want everything for free or next to nothing and then I want it to be awesome, suffice to say I'm a bit of a whinger. If it has a problem, you'll hear about it

Yep, the one I posted earlier, the price has just jumped a few bucks too due to exchange. I also messaged him and tried to get it for cheaper, no dice.