No Crust Racing

Hah, that bad hey. I've been doing some more reading and the AEM seems to have more positive reviews in terms of reliability and longevity. The logging isn't as fancy, but some plain text numbers in a hyperterminal session are fine to me. Seems to be more Innovates available second hand too. Any other suggestions in this price range?

What actually went wrong?

The Innovate box itself or the Bosh wideband they come with? In that price range there's also the AEM ones but they don't do datalogging.

Morning Chaps, Rather than heading to my local tuner just to check my AFR's are safe before the next track day (I've been doing some work on the car so thought it prudent) I might just invest in a cheap wideband/guage kit. I'm looking at these two at present. http://www.innovatem...oducts/MTXL.php http://www.innovatem...products/db.php Can any comment on if these are any good? Any other suggestions for the same money? If anyone has a kit they are looking to offload let me know also. Cheers

Morning Chaps, Rather than heading to my local tuner just to check my AFR's are safe before the next track day (I've been doing some work on the car so thought it prudent) I might just invest in a cheap wideband/guage kit. I'm looking at these two at present. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/db.php Can any comment on if these are any good? Any other suggestions for the same money? If anyone has a kit they are looking to offload let me know also. Cheers

Dyno was a fizzle, the guy was a muppet. Went as he could fit me in this Sat, my n0rmal dyno guy was busy. After dicking around for ages and continuing to tell me it was lean all the time, I added full correction for fuel on the SAFC (50%) the car is missing, popping flames, big plumes of black smoke from the unburnt fuel and he goes still lean. turns out his sensor is f**ked. Not only that but he wants to run it by sitting at 60km/h in 3rd, no load no boost, then continuing to add load on the dyno and adding throttle so it just holds at 60km/h so essentially we're driving up the steepest hill in the world at 60km/h in third. The car just loves that. He spent more time talking about his divorce, pending lawsuit with the epa, and on the phone to the guy from Mainline trying to work out how to give me the damn graph i needed to see (he could only give me real time data and nothing recorded over a run) than he did anything else. In the end, he cracked it, I cracked it and we went our separate ways (I didn't pay anything). I'll go to my normal dyno guy next Saturday. Good news is that other than when it had stupid fuel in it, it didn't miss on the drive over or back or on the dyno. Must have been the O2.

I only care as Vic gives discounted license costs for those who have a ten year clear record and you also have a very good chance of getting off minor infringements with ten clear years behind you. My boss does it and srdo cited my lack of ten clear years as the reason they could not give leniency. Now I start my ten year count again ;(

Tez bringing the lolz

Interested to hear from anyone who's ever done it.

I got a speeding fine when travelling up north to collect our new pup. It was an honest mistake, no question that I was speeding. I sent in a request for review but was denied as I have had speeding fines in the last 10 years (none for the last 4 though ) I am devo that I'll be losing points after being well behaved for so long and having accumulated all my points back (sold my GT-R, got a dedicated track car and a Falcon daily) etc. Some of you will know the urban myth, overpay the fine, get sent a refund, never cash it, no points applied. Any truth to that? My assumption is no but can't hurt to ask.

Update: Drove the car to work today as it's a nice sunny day, it's supposed to be 20 here today too so the drive home will be another good test. No missing at all with the Oxygen sensor disconnected. Considering it's primarily track only I'm not in a hurry to replace the sensor. I'm going to put it on a dyno this weekend and check the AFRs after all my stuffing around and make sure it's safe before it hits the track again. At the same time I could use the low throttle point map in the SAFC to take a bit of fuel out of at the cruising RPM with low throttle. Not as good as relying on the Oxygen sensor but better than nothing, that will only be if time permits as I'm not really concerned about highway economy. Let me know if I'm missing something else by not replacing it though. So long as it drives well on WOT I'll be happy. Side bar: Do the CA's have a diagnostic type port? I know they don't have a CONSULT port but do they have the standard 9 pin diag port? If so I can hook up a little diag box and check my timing easily too.

Looks great. Now we just need two big bottles of NOS from Harry and we're good to go

Interesting. Just to clarify, we're talking a ca18 here not an rb. I only mention this as you referred to skylines before. See how it goes when the temp is higher. Cold dense air might have been masking it. Previously the critical miss point was 31-3200rpm

See how it goes with the O2 disconnected and driven when warmer. If it's still good I I'll try another sensor. Fingers crossed.

Ok one more update. I went for another drive, safc on zero, but this time I disconnected the exhaust gas sensor/O2 sensor. This is another test in the sevice manual for missing. No missing at all with plug gaps on .8 I considered that because it is a cold night it was masking it so I sat in an industrial estate with my lights off and held 2500 rpm for period until water and oil temps were nice and warm and the bay was nice and soaked. It occasionally missed/popped during this high idle period but did not miss while driving or under load. I'll test again during the day when it's warmer and might grab the sensor from my mates car.

I believe the ecu itself has been flashed which is why I can have the safc on zero and still not ping. Granted I'm only using the factory sensor but im not hearing or registering any knock on the safc either. The car ha knocked before with too much boost. Sounds like it might be worth at least checking timing and making sure it wasnt advanced when it was tuned. I might check the manual and see if there's anything I can check with the multimeter for the fuel pump. I'm reluctant to take I to a local place as they have a tendency to charge for hours and hours and come back with nothing.

I'd normally agree with you having helped a number of mates sort these issues myself. Which is why one of the first things I did was try different coils from a known working engine (CA18 with T28 making 180rwkw, Z32 etc) and a diff coil pack loom. Then different plugs. So if it was a spark issue you'd think it would have got better with different coil packs. Besides a big ass air leak from somewhere, what else could cause it to overfuel? The reason I ask is I don't wanna throw down a few hundred on coil packs that don't fix the issue.

Double update time Gapped the plugs back to .8 and tested, no change, if anything it seems worse on a wider gap. The miss is bigger and last longer. Had another fiddle with the SAFC, and found that after removing about %20 from the map in the problem rev range it stopped missing completely, I also noticed that it was very slow to build boost due to this (SFA fuel = SFA exhaust gas and no spool) I richened it up 20% and tested again, missing like a bitch. Big black puffs of fuel out the exhaust. So I suspected either a leak in the cooler piping somewhere. Removed both head lights, took off each piece of cooler and induction piping, inspected, adjusted and re-tightened all clamps. Check multiple vac hoses, cable tied anything that looked remotely suspicious. Went for another test drive. Still missing and quite noticeably too, again larger gap seems worse than when it was on .5 I am yet to check the timing but does anything think this could actually be a timing issue? I dont want to go borrowing a gun if there's no point. I don't think a fuel pump is the issue as there appears to be plenty of fuel in the map, the car sometimes backfires too, over-fueling I would think. I also noticed some oil build up in the cooler core, assume from tiring turbo, can the mix be that oily that it won't ignite? Rapidly running out of ideas and patience

Update: Got it hot enough to miss consistenly and tried properly disconnecting and blocking the fuel reg and tried the other ignitor both without success. Also was very slow to make boost and wouldn't make full boost with the reg disconnected. Tomorrow weather permitting I will gap the plugs at .8 and try again. Heat is definitely a factor, once the bay is nice and soaked. I also found a big ass exhaust leak at the dump.

Update: Tested another CAS, exact same readings as mine. Interesting to note that pins D and C in the above picture are what actually register 0-5V, they must have gotten it wrong in the manual. I have mega ultra quadruple checked. Two CAS' same results. Something else I noticed when putting things back to how they were is that I didn't actually disconnect the fuel reg (face palm) I had disconnected something else sitting just above it, very similar looking and a bit larger. I realised this when I was reconnecting it and thought it seemed odd that it wasn't ON the friggen fuel rail. So I will test that properly tomorrow. I also have the Ignitor to test (possibility as I don't run heat shields on the turbo and the ignitor is on the passenger side strut from factory and will gap plugs back to .8 as well. Will do those things one at a time though so I can be certain if something fixes it. Cheers

Hmm so a bit of hill climbing and some drift at the local Kart track. Where do people practice for hillclimbs legally?

Interested to know if there's much going on in and around Port and Newcastle Motorsport wise. What's your nearest track? Eastern Creek? Is there any Rally etc? Cheers

Sorry mate only just saw this. The step is as simple as disconnect fuel reg, does the problem improve? Yes? If so measure fuel pressure. I didn't follow on with the fuel pressure step as my problem did not improve. Grab a copy of the manual here. http://180sx.strent.net/documents/S13.CA18.Service.Manual.pdf

OK Update time. I had a few mins last night so I pulled the CAS to test. A few things to note. 1) The CAS and timing cover had paint pen marks on them, so it's been off before, the exhaust cam gear also had paint pen marks on it so I will deffo check timing as it's been adjusted before either when tuned or when timing belt was done. 2) According to the Service Manual, the CAS should read between 0 and 5V on pins A and B (see attachment) and the injectors should fire when rotating the shaft. I quadruple tested both pins and got between 0 and .3 on A and between 11.7 and 11.9 on B. That seemed very far off which is why I quadruple tested. I did however get 0-5V on pin D (I quadruple checked the plug orientation to be sure i was testing the right pins). So either my CAS is wack or the service manual is asking you to test the wrong pins. The injectors could be heard firing also so that's good. I dropped down to a workshop this morning where a mates car is getting a rebuild and borrowed his CAS and Ignitor. Will check both of those and timing this weekend. I'll re-gap the plugs back to .8 for testing too as a few CA owners have suggested coppers at .8 is the way to go, no harm in trying. I will do that after the above.