No Crust Racing

I believe the ecu itself has been flashed which is why I can have the safc on zero and still not ping. Granted I'm only using the factory sensor but im not hearing or registering any knock on the safc either. The car ha knocked before with too much boost. Sounds like it might be worth at least checking timing and making sure it wasnt advanced when it was tuned. I might check the manual and see if there's anything I can check with the multimeter for the fuel pump. I'm reluctant to take I to a local place as they have a tendency to charge for hours and hours and come back with nothing.

I'd normally agree with you having helped a number of mates sort these issues myself. Which is why one of the first things I did was try different coils from a known working engine (CA18 with T28 making 180rwkw, Z32 etc) and a diff coil pack loom. Then different plugs. So if it was a spark issue you'd think it would have got better with different coil packs. Besides a big ass air leak from somewhere, what else could cause it to overfuel? The reason I ask is I don't wanna throw down a few hundred on coil packs that don't fix the issue.

Double update time Gapped the plugs back to .8 and tested, no change, if anything it seems worse on a wider gap. The miss is bigger and last longer. Had another fiddle with the SAFC, and found that after removing about %20 from the map in the problem rev range it stopped missing completely, I also noticed that it was very slow to build boost due to this (SFA fuel = SFA exhaust gas and no spool) I richened it up 20% and tested again, missing like a bitch. Big black puffs of fuel out the exhaust. So I suspected either a leak in the cooler piping somewhere. Removed both head lights, took off each piece of cooler and induction piping, inspected, adjusted and re-tightened all clamps. Check multiple vac hoses, cable tied anything that looked remotely suspicious. Went for another test drive. Still missing and quite noticeably too, again larger gap seems worse than when it was on .5 I am yet to check the timing but does anything think this could actually be a timing issue? I dont want to go borrowing a gun if there's no point. I don't think a fuel pump is the issue as there appears to be plenty of fuel in the map, the car sometimes backfires too, over-fueling I would think. I also noticed some oil build up in the cooler core, assume from tiring turbo, can the mix be that oily that it won't ignite? Rapidly running out of ideas and patience

Update: Got it hot enough to miss consistenly and tried properly disconnecting and blocking the fuel reg and tried the other ignitor both without success. Also was very slow to make boost and wouldn't make full boost with the reg disconnected. Tomorrow weather permitting I will gap the plugs at .8 and try again. Heat is definitely a factor, once the bay is nice and soaked. I also found a big ass exhaust leak at the dump.

Update: Tested another CAS, exact same readings as mine. Interesting to note that pins D and C in the above picture are what actually register 0-5V, they must have gotten it wrong in the manual. I have mega ultra quadruple checked. Two CAS' same results. Something else I noticed when putting things back to how they were is that I didn't actually disconnect the fuel reg (face palm) I had disconnected something else sitting just above it, very similar looking and a bit larger. I realised this when I was reconnecting it and thought it seemed odd that it wasn't ON the friggen fuel rail. So I will test that properly tomorrow. I also have the Ignitor to test (possibility as I don't run heat shields on the turbo and the ignitor is on the passenger side strut from factory and will gap plugs back to .8 as well. Will do those things one at a time though so I can be certain if something fixes it. Cheers

Hmm so a bit of hill climbing and some drift at the local Kart track. Where do people practice for hillclimbs legally?

Interested to know if there's much going on in and around Port and Newcastle Motorsport wise. What's your nearest track? Eastern Creek? Is there any Rally etc? Cheers

Sorry mate only just saw this. The step is as simple as disconnect fuel reg, does the problem improve? Yes? If so measure fuel pressure. I didn't follow on with the fuel pressure step as my problem did not improve. Grab a copy of the manual here. http://180sx.strent.net/documents/S13.CA18.Service.Manual.pdf

OK Update time. I had a few mins last night so I pulled the CAS to test. A few things to note. 1) The CAS and timing cover had paint pen marks on them, so it's been off before, the exhaust cam gear also had paint pen marks on it so I will deffo check timing as it's been adjusted before either when tuned or when timing belt was done. 2) According to the Service Manual, the CAS should read between 0 and 5V on pins A and B (see attachment) and the injectors should fire when rotating the shaft. I quadruple tested both pins and got between 0 and .3 on A and between 11.7 and 11.9 on B. That seemed very far off which is why I quadruple tested. I did however get 0-5V on pin D (I quadruple checked the plug orientation to be sure i was testing the right pins). So either my CAS is wack or the service manual is asking you to test the wrong pins. The injectors could be heard firing also so that's good. I dropped down to a workshop this morning where a mates car is getting a rebuild and borrowed his CAS and Ignitor. Will check both of those and timing this weekend. I'll re-gap the plugs back to .8 for testing too as a few CA owners have suggested coppers at .8 is the way to go, no harm in trying. I will do that after the above.

The mate with the timing gun has a carby V8 so I might be able to pilfer one of his leads too.

If it was a fuel pressure issue I'd of thought it would show up with the regulator test, the service manual has that as a step to rule out the pump for misfire, lack of power, or surge issues. The next step in the FSM is to check the CAS itself and then check timing. So I'll rule those out first. I'll need some bits to do timing though, I have access to a timing gun but I can't see a way to get a signal for it without running a spark plug lead between the coil and plug so I can clamp onto that. The manual has other ways but involves specific Nissan tools.

Stock pump

Forgot to add, safc is on zero adjustment atm, ecu is tuned. Cat is.... Track modified.

No consult port on ca's, only ecu diag LEDs which are showing clear. Update time: removed fuel reg vac hose and blocked, went for a drive. Only had it miss a bit a few times but I put this down to the temp tonight, even colder than last night. Not goin to do any more drive testing at night as I can't get the car hot enough without flogging it and I'm risking defects etc by being out in it as it's track modified but street reg'd and only rarely street driven. Still showed the same doughy/bog down behavior once warmed also. When I got back I also tested the resistance across the engine temp sensor as per service manual. Got .386k ohms. Manual says .2 at 80 degrees, the car was a bit cooler so higher resistance seems right. FYI it should be 2.5k ohms when cold and gets lower as the temp rises. Next step is pull the cas ad test it, then I might drive it and heat soak the engine bay/cas a test it again. I have access to another ignitor so will look at that over the weekend. I know I had some bad misfire in my 33 from this but this feels different and the ignitor is not on the rocker in a ca. Sorry for typos, on the iPhone.

Ok felt guilty so went for a drive and skipped the last bit of top gear! A few things to note. Gaps were .5 and I also noticed a plug on top of the air regulator under the throttle body had come off so I fixed that. Went for a drive and it was only right at the end of the drive that it started to miss a small amount and bog down if I flattened it from 25-2800 onwards. I think it was too cold last night as normally when it does it the water temp has come up to 70 and it only got to 60 last night as it was late and quite cold. Water temp sender is in the rad return hose FYI. I noticed too that when the car is warmed right up and starts missing it also appears to rev up slower. Wondering if this could be a electrical issue with the cas. I'll take a look at the service manual for the testing procedure and will test the crimped fuel reg next as I only wanted to test one thing at a time.

Sitting on the couch watching the new Top Gear don't think I'm getting to it tonight. Will update shortly.

Ok weather is finally good enough to go test at .5 will do after work. Anyone care to explain how crimping the fuel reg hose will help me test?

Ok re-gapped plugs to .5 noticed that the new plugs are already quite black with carbon , not fuel or oil, a dry build up. Interesting given they are only 50ks old. Will test drive when the road is dry again, too hard to test in the wet.

I'll gap the plugs smaller and try again. Curious as to how the fpr test works?

New plugs gapped to .65 and fresh fuel, still doing it. The fuel filter is only 1000ks old as I considered that. I'm going to do a bit more testing with the tune as it "feels" like mix related, though I did consider timing?

Im thinking that if it was an air leak then the problem is it's too rich and I took all the fuel out of the map to test and it made no difference. Car has been on the dyno an has a tuned ecu, I have the safc to monitor and make small ajustments

Hey guys, Here's the story. S13, CA18, T25G, 14psi, Iridium spark plugs gapped to .7 If I drive along in second at about 2800rpm and drop the throttle flat (or if I happen to drop back from 3rd to 2nd and flatten the throttle, the car will mis and splutter from around 2800-3000 rpm up til as late as 32-3400 rpm. This is much more prevalent when the car is fully up to temp. I've tried swapping in different coil packs, cleaning the electrodes on the coil packs (no cracks on the existing or addition tested coil packs. Putting fuel into the map there (SAFC) taking fuel out of the map there. Swapped over the coil pack loom. Plugs are a heat range 6 so a range colder than factory and are only 3000-3500 ks old, about 1000-1500 of those would be track ks. The plug shows white discolouration that correlates to the high rpm usage (this is a track car). What are your thoughts? I'm thinking of grabbing a cheap set of plugs today to test, but the iridiums were $25 each and are only 3500ks old, the car only makes 165rwkw. Initially I thought coilpacks or tuning but after trying two sets of coils and putting all the fuel in and taking all the fuel out it doesn't seem to help.

Just whip up some John Deere looking frame from RHS like I did using the old tabs Backyard Racing FTW

No worries and good luck. I only had standard seats in my 33 GT-R so I can't comment on how centered the wheel is to the seat in those. Pics when you're done

Sounds like a good price then to me. What are they going in? Height could be an issue depending on the rails. I think tall people have had success with Bride super low rails and the velo mounts. I'm shorter so was able to just make up my own frame from RHS as I had the height to work with. My head just clears the roof with a helmet on. I'm not sure what you're putting it in but in my S13, using a plumb bob I found that the steering wheel was off centre to the seat by a notable margin, and have since found this in other mates S13s. So I took the opportunity to centre the wheel to the seat.