No Crust Racing

I'd agree with the new tyres masking the issue until the fade, especially with the mid corner dynamics you explained. I'd have said it was a bit soft also but you've bagted that with using the other shocks and springs. I'm curious to know why you can't match the camber and castor, that obviously shows something is different. Are you running the same shocks, arms, bushes, as the previous car? Was this chassis ever involved in a bingle? Was the chassis checked with a lazer when it was stripped? How do the towers look?

Interesting stuff, sounds like you've done the homework then. You'd have to think that if we're headed in the right direction and it's a diff/attessa/ type issue that you might feel the car behaving more erraticly, but you said it came good after switching computers yeah? When did you switch the computers over, have you run an event since? Is your alignment the same as the old car more or less, specifically roll centres etc. Again, I'd imagine you would "feel" this if there was something amiss in those departments but worth mentioning

I'm not sure about 34's but in 33 V-Specs the rear diff is an active LSD that can split torque left and right with more finesse. The ATTESSA is also the pro version in 33 vspec so it's faster/better etc. I'm not sure what happens in 34s when you start swapping controllers and diffs around between v-spec and non v-spec versions, especially when you throw a new diff into the mix. I'd at least be spending a few minutes just making sure all the bits you have want to play nice together, especially if you're thinking it's not throwing power up front like it should.

I think you need to move from being an owner/driver to more of a Pit Boss. In which case you'll need a driver, and lucky for you, I happen to be available... Interesting what you're saying though, you'd think a fresh car and lighter weight would definitely translate well in times. Is the car equal in terms of braking and engine power to the old one? How fresh are the diffs and transfer case?

Awesome update. This thing is gonna be quite the little beasty when it's done, top work so far guys. Wish I had your mechanical skillz

Almost time to move guys, would really like this tow pack gone. Grab a bargain. Cheers

I imagine then problem at something like f/22 which you said means longer shutter speeds becomes motion blur if I was going hand held. So a tripod might be something we need to look at as well. Sometimes I actually think a good point and shoot can match these things when using auto settings or for when taking shots at parties in low light conditions etc.

Yeah don't think it's the camera, it's definitely me and my expectations. The other thing I completely forgot about is that camera's are not the human eye when it comes to focus. What I mean is I was expecting to be able to take a shot like that that has very different depth throughout the shot whilst keeping everything in focus. But when I thought about it from a camera point of view it makes sense that only objects that share a particular depth within the shot can be in focus at any one time. Is there some trick to taking a shot like that and having as much as possible in focus? When playing with manual focus points I was able to get the knife block in focus and the bench etc at the same depth point but of course the background is then quite out of focus. +1 for wanting a new/better flash.

Hey guys, back again. Been playing a bit and have worked out a few handy controls which has helped. I've been focusing on using the S mode for now and have also had a bit of a play changing the intensity of the flash when taking pics in low light which has also helped in some circumstances. I like the idea of being able to wind up shutter speed to avoid needing flash though. One thing that I'm still really struggling with is getting the clarity. If you look at the attached images, tell me what settings would give me clarity here. I tried auto with flash shutter mode with different speeds and I've played with focus modes too. I'm guessing that given the varying lighting and wide range of depth here it makes it a hard shot to get. I was using the knife block under the phone as a reference point while not actually focusing on them specifically. I resized them to get them under the 2mb individual size limit. Excuse the dishes, I just finished washing up

I know it's not an RB but it will make some good numbers and you never know who might be interested Weiand Tunnel Ram (HPC Coated) Tunnel Ram Linkages Twin 660 center squirters by RAYJE Carburetors. (Rebuilt and un used) Edelbrock Aluminium Cylinder Heads. Custom Race Valves Iskederian Springs Crow Locks Comp Cams Retainers. Screw in Studs and Guide Plates. Yella Terra Roller Rockers TRW 12.5-1 Forged Racing Pistons Super Cobra Jet Con Rods ARP Rod Bolts Clevite Bearings King Bearings Bullet Racing Flat Tappet Camshaft Comp Cams Flat Tappet Lifters 460 Offset Crank. High Enenrgy Sump High Volume Oil Pump. Chrome bolts with Ford logo embossed on them. MSD Distributor part no:8577 MSD 6AL Ignition MSD Blasster 2 Coil Moroso Over flow bottle Moroso Rocker Covers CVR High performance Billet Water Pump Castlemaine Rod Shop BB460 Engine Mounts (engineered) Basicaly the whole engine is brand new and not been used except for the crank and cam. The engine does need some minor work to finish. Bottom end is complete. Need to: Tighten rockers, put on rocker covers, manifold, water pump, carbies & linkages I have been told the below details by the engine builder. Motor size: 485ci Approx HP: 620 - 650 This motor has cost me over $14k I priced a single carb motor similar to this the other day and it was just under $13k Price is $10,000 but I am open to offers As you can see the motor has all the good stuff. Located in Albury/Wodonga, Best to reach me via mobile on 0435 658 832

You'd have to think so. What's required to get 180kw out of an NA SR? I'm assuming you mean 180 at the fly wheel and not at the wheels.

Best offer taken, want this gone before I move shortly.

Hey guys, I've noticed an odd issue with on the SAFC in my CA S13 recently. When slowly applying throttle the voltage will start to climb by itself once you reach a certain point. Say once I get to 25% throttle it will then just start climbing up to 100% by itself. The car itself is not actually accelerating though so it's purely an electrical thing. At first I suspected my SAFC wiring into the loom was bad so I re-did it and soldered it up all nice and pretty - good connection to the TPS wire and good earth. Problem still existed so I'm now suspecting it's actually the TPS itself. I removed it and soaked it in contact cleaner (the unit is sealed but has some holes I could use to get the cleaner in) as I understand it's a potentiometer inside which rotates around and adjust voltage accordingly. There was no change in the behaviour. I've confirmed that the voltage increase is there at the TPS and is not just being seen by the SAFC. Has anybody else seen this sort of thing or has any other suggestions before I replace the TPS? Cheers

I'm keen to see the rear mounting setup when you have a spare moment, or should that be if? lol

You're a machine, got pics yet?

And that's still probably faster than my CA

That's alright then. Are you finding them harder to get to temp as the compound gets harder with each heat cycle?

For those running the mini slicks, how long are they taking you to get them up to temp? For the price and reported tread depth they seem like awesome value but I'm planning on attending some super sprints at Winton and worried that I wont have enough time to get them up to temp.

Ah, bit far to go then, I'm in Albury. If there's any way I can assist with measurements or anything let me know. Cheers

Where are you? I've got a a semi stripped S13 that I wouldn't mind a bolt in for.

Went for a quick drive last night, scared some people walking their dog. Battery bracket works well, no movement

went for a drive, feels pretty good and drives straight so that's a good start. Reason the rack went in was to sort a dead feeling it had after the last deca. Feels better than it did but still has moments where it feels suspect though, so maybe it's the pump

I'd say I've ended up with about 2-3mm total toe out up front. Do you guys drop the tie rod end and spin it on the rack end or leave the tie rod end attached and spin the rack end inside the tie rod end thread. I was dropping the tie rod, the flat surfaces on the rack end to get a spanner on it looked a little rough and small. Downside being I could only adjust in larger increments with the tie rod end method, think I'll see how it drives then use the rack end adjustment for fine tuning.

Battery stickers are bigger than expected. Much bigger 0_0

As I understand it, you'll puff some smoke out the exhaust, typical blue/grey oil burning smoke. Not fluffy white like when you do a head gasket and not black/dark like when you're running rich. You can also end up with quite a bit of oil in the inlet tract, intercooler core and for those running bleed valves close to the turbo you might find some oil seeping around the valve knob etc. What symptoms do you have that make you question the turbo seals?