No Crust Racing

Cheers, just good to have some feedback. Fingers crossed the steering is good after this all goes back together

Yeah I thought so also but I'm wondering if there's any reason there should be grease that far up the shaft. I'm assuming that so long as I dont have power steering fluid anywhere in there then I'm good to go?

I bought an S15 rack to go in the Silvia after busting the original one at the last DECA. I'm in the process of swapping over the Tie Rods and I noted that one side of the rack is dirty and one side is clean. It looks like grease from the tie rod socket and I can't see any power steering fluid but I'm wondering, is this a bad sign. I don;t want to be putting in a rack that's about to go. Pics attached: dirty side/clean side I posted this in the Suspension section too, no bites.

I bought an S15 rack to go in the Silvia after busting the original one at the last DECA. I'm in the process of swapping over the Tie Rods and I noted that one side of the rack is dirty and one side is clean. It looks like grease from the tie rod socket and I can't see any power steering fluid but I'm wondering, is this a bad sign. I don;t want to be putting in a rack that's about to go. Pics attached: dirty side/clean side

Yep. I'd say when the ad gets pulled he gets an email saying so, he then sends an email to anyone who he has already received an enquiry from with his dodgy email saying the vehicle and the seller are all cleared by carsales. Dodge-a-rific.

BA Fairmont Centre Cap - From 16" Rim if that matters (Wreckers want $25 to $30 for these) $15 Delivered anywhere in Aus BA-BF 1600kg Tow Pack Removed from a recently purchased vehicle and is not required. Includes all nuts and bolts to fit it and the wiring loom. Note that there is no tow ball but the tongue is there. $130 Delivery is possible but not exactly easy, pickup definitely preferred, can be available for courier collection etc if needed. Located in Ablury/Wodonga Best to reach me via email at [email protected] or on 0423094463 Cheers

I'm gonna start having some fun maybe... On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 11:21 PM, Jason Derrington <[email protected]> wrote: Dan, Great. Don't forget to confirm the payment by sending a scanned copy of the transfer receipt from your bank at ebay at the following email : [email protected] so they can see that the payment has been made and send me the shipping instructions. thanks, Jas On Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 11:26 AM, Dan Fewster <[email protected]> wrote: Hi Jas, My bank said the account details did not exist, can you confirm what account I should be using? I must have made a mistake. It's been a very long week at work and I've been having problems with my other new car, the mechanic told me "This R2 unit has a bad motivator" which sounded expensive. Oh well. Cheers Dan

That's my point Baron, When I reported it to carsales and had the ad pulled then started getting "carsales" emails etc I thought wow that is some effort to go to and to the untrained eye some of those emails might look legit. You and I can see that it's obviously fake, not everybody can pick it so I'm sharing it around so that perhaps others can be better prepared. Don't shoot the messenger If there weren't people who fell for this then ACA would run out of stories to run pretty quickly. Just trying to spread the word.

Hah thanks Terry - I knew you'd poke your head in here. Or should I call you Poirot The seats was clearly my fault, in a rush, sick of searching around and didn't pay enough attention to my "spider senses" This time I was paying attention as I normally do. The seats will be the first and last time I don't pay attention to what's going on! In addition, The VIN supplied by the seller is legit and does not show any finance or theft etc. Nice touch to use details on a clean car. At this stage he's waiting for my payment. I'm going to drag it on a bit and extract as much info as possible to pass on appropriate authorities. Yes I'm wasting my own time but this type of thing burns me up.

Further more... I thought I might at least waste some of his time From: Dan Fewster [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Thursday, 14 October 2010 10:18 PM To: 'Jason Derrington' Subject: RE: XR6 No worries Jas, I got it too. I’m making payment now, can’t wait! Cheers Dan From: Jason Derrington [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Thursday, 14 October 2010 10:13 PM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: XR6 Dan, I got a letter from Ebay that they have sent you the invoice for the car. Just wanted to be sure that you've received it and that you understood how to make the payment and how to confirm it. Now I will wait for the confirmation from ebay that you have made the payment and I will start the shipping immediately. Alongside the car you will receive all the papers,title,bill of sale signed by me,owner's manual and two set of keys so it will be no problem to register the car into your name. Kind regards, Jason Derrington

I offered to have RACV inspect the car at my expense. Unsurprisingly he declined explaining that he didn't want someone else testing it while he wasn't there. Yet he's happy to just freight it to someone no worries..

I've been looking for a car recently and in the process came across a Silver 04 Model BA XR6, 123,000k's horrid chrome wheels but with an attractive sale price of $7600 - the cheapest 04 XR6 going around. I'm assuming it's stuffed or dodgy but thought what the hell can't hurt to enquire. The seller, Jasin Derrington ([email protected]) explains that while the car is listed as for sale in QLD, it's actually stored in TAS at present as he has recently moved to Spain for work. Alarm bells are already ringing. I also negotitate on the price as I'd already bought a car, he knocks off $1K in an instant for a "quick sale". He sends a link to a valid eBay webpage explaining how their buyer protection policy works and ensures you that it's all above board, you send eBay the $$, he sends the car, you accept the car if you are happy with it, they release the money. That part is all well and true excpet that eBay do not protect buyers when one party is overseas. Scam detected. I contact carsales, they pull the ad and send me a legit email saying we are investigating. Shortly after I receive a reasonably legit looking email from "carsales" saying they have investigated and that the ad is all above board and that the seller has verfied ownership and vehicle details (shown below). I search for the car on carsales, it doesn't exist anymore, I search the name on the email of the supposed carsales employee and the body of text and find numerous references to this exact message and scam setup on the net. I also note the ebay account has only been active for less than a month, has zero feedback and is not listing the car as a sale item. Buyers beware of this scam! I've been around long enough to pick up on the signs but I'm sure not everyone out there has been round the block enough to know the differences between a great deal and a scam. This is purely a public service announcement, I haven't sent any money etc. The seller also asked for my eBay user ID to initiate the transaction. I did provide it (I have enough strong password) to see what the response would be, they're attached below also. Note the address it comes from. eBay confirm this has NOTHING to do with them. I've also included the details he has put in for payment... notice the name Jason doesn't appear... So there you have it, tell your friends, tell your mum and dad, partner etc. Don't let these scumbags get away with this crap!

I think the brand of cooler is less important than the fitting location, how much you increase your oil capacity by, the oil used etc. I run a standard 13row Just Jap core with a Greddy relocator and a BTR thermostat. This is only a very mild power CA S13 so it doesn't generate a ton of heat. It'd probably be too small for a lot of you. On my first ever day at the track in the car the oil was hovering around 110-115 and it would have been a 25deg day tops. Not ideal giving I wasn't hammering the car - was only a drift day and I was learning very gingerly. I fitted all the above and located the core underneath the drivers headlight and vented the bumper to feed it and vented into the wheel arch so air would flow through properly. Next time at the track was a 35deg day and it was a proper track day so I was on 100% throttle for much more of the lap, oil temps didn't go past 95deg at the hottest and that was after 10lap stints where tyres/brakes where becoming the issue. I have no doubt that better brand coolers could do a better job row for row but when you can just buy the next size up in a cheaper core and get the same results and still save monet it's hard to go past. Space can be an issue of course and in this instance I would opt for a a better core if funds allow. For reference I also run a heavy duty PWR core on my BA for the gearbox to bypass the internal (prone to leaking) internal cooler and make it a bit happier when towing. No issues with either setup. You can always raise the bonnet at the rear and do some venting/ducting to assist. Both cheap things to do. Not sure if I'd wanna risk a second hand core though. Not when new cheap ones are..well so cheap

After a complete S15 rack, inc tie rods and tie rod ends. As a point of reference On Boost do them for $150 delivered to me (Albury 2640) with a 1mth warranty. Thing is I dunno hw long they have been out of the cars and with no fluid. If you have something better let me know, [email protected] or 0423 094463 or a PM is fine. Cheers

Hmm. Too many variables measurements wise blargh. I don't think it matters which way I go, some modification is going to be necessary, either to the bolt hole locations of my velo mounts on the bottom where it connects to the rails or the bride mount side holes where it lines up with my seat. To me this looks easier http://www.frsport.com/Bride-Type-MO-Super...S14_p_1225.html All I'd have to do would be drill some new holes in the bottom of my velo mounts where it connects to the rails. I see what you mean though with something more like this design http://www.japshop.co.uk/acatalog/EVO_8_Seats-Rails.html No issues with the lower hump part of the seat clearing the cross bar.

I've got a velo with the Velo side mounts bolted to it. They bolt to the side of the seat but have a 90 deg bend and mount flat to the frame I made up. These http://velo.websitestation-client.com/site...t%20bracket.jpg

That's good enough for me then. I'm not 100% clear on the types though. I notice there's superlow TYPE MO and YS etc. Does it matter?

Hmm, was it low enough for you Dane? I'm concerned about that pronounced hump close to the transmission tunnel.

Interesting. Brett From Revolution tells me the V8 teams are just using the exanding foam stuff from a spray can available at any hardware store and a rubbish bag. Seems a bit industrial lol

Cheers, my rule of thumb when replacing anything is new bushes anyway

The missus is keen to try her hand at the wheel of the mighty S13. Now this presents a problem, I'm the standard 6ft, she's about 5'6 or so. My seat, a Velo Podium, is currently fully fixed for me on a frame I made up using the factory mounting points and tabs from the old factory rail. Here's the dilemma, if I add some bolt holes in the frame for her we'd still be a good inch short of where she needs to be and I had the idea of the seat mold stuff they use in the V8's when they do enduros but I'm not sure what it is, where to get it, and cost etc. The other issue is having to unbolt the seat all the time to change positions if we share the car on the same day. The other option is to go something like a Bride superlow rail (the current frame has my helmet just clearing the roof lining) but from what I can see it puts the seat position very close to the driver side door, where as I adjusted the seating position to be central to the wheel - In an S13 you sit kind off to the right of the wheel in a factory seat. What are others doing to get around this?

This leads me to believe the outer seal in the rack is weeping under pressure? I assume this requires a rebuild? Bad side Good side

http://www.mmsport.com.au/products/1182/Pulse-PHB-400 Is this what u have Dane?

Always good to hear the opposing view. Do you think it's really worth the effort of removing the turbo on the CA or are you talking twin charged? Standard CA turbos are so small that there's almost no lag as it is.

Interesting to hear from someone who's done both. Interesting to hear, I'd of thought fitment would have been on par with a turbo install but that would depend on the type of supercharger. It seems my understanding of it all rings pretty true amongst others as well then. I stand by my comment to avoid that particular pod cast. "In Yank land the Supercharger is apparently king of all " Sorry I should have specifically pointed out that I was referring to the overtone of the podcast I was listening too. This is not my opinion and im not here advocating for the supercharger, just throwing it up for general discussion. Hence why this topic is not in the forced induction or motorsport section as a "How can I/Should I go about this for my car". Looks like what I thought to be the case seems to be the shared understanding. Glad I'm not going crazy.