No Crust Racing

Agreed, hence my comments above regarding feel. That link does a great job of explaining the concept though.

Great link. Love this bit... Drivers tend to operate very aggressively in times of stress and in general they tend to move the steering wheel far too far during the initial phase of a corner (especially in an emergency) because they don't get the instant response they want. Less is invariably more.

lol might see you there mate

Kez finally gonna pop his cherrie You should have come with me to some Winton days mate, I could have taken you for a spin in the SlowVia to at least give you a few basic pointers. Now, as Alan said above (btw Al when did you get an MR2?!) tyre squeel is not the best indicator, especially on street rubber. Don't compare your car to Chris' Evo either as he can torch tyres all day and stay on the black stuff, you're Supra will spit you out very quickly if you get too agressive. It's a heavy RWD car and when loaded up to one side it will easily spin the inside wheel and make all kinds of noise and carry on in the rear end. Which is just like pretty much every other stock suspension RWD car out there. These driver training days are awesome and the idea is you start out slow/comfy and get quicker throughout the day progressing at a comfortable and SAFE pace foryou and your car. To answer your question, it differs from car to car, corner to corner, and with many other variables like tyre temp, road temp gradient of the road, where you choose to apex, and the list goes on and on and on. There's no single answer to what it feels like when a car is letting go. You will learn to determine between under and oversteer, spinning one wheel as opposed to both rears, locking up one or more wheels and so on. Each has it's own set of basic guidelines. Bare in mind too that some tyres, regardless of price/brand make much more noise than others at a given speed. You will have to slowly learn to 'feel' the car and learn when it is starting to go. If and when you do start to lose it (front or rear end) you only have a few seconds to react so don't over correct and remember to be gentle on your inputs. A very small counter steer and a slight lift of throttle is often enough to keep the car moving along pretty much as you intended. It's when you start winding on massive lock and stomping throttle or brakes that you end up spinning out massively, tagging walls or fish tailing wildly before doing one of the other two. The had part is staying calm and using gentle inputs, not slow inputs just gentle. If the car is heavy loaded to one side or front to back and you go changing the direction of momentum abruptly you will have more issues than you started with. Take it easy, get to know the car, get to know the track, listen to your driver trainer. Enjoy yourself and bring it home in one piece:)

I'll throw in my 2 cents also. D1 spec the same as Marlin. Cheap, fast to engage and remove, and mine has virtually no slop.

Put me down on the reserves.

Sorted, thread can be closed

That's my thoughts on the subject also. Having said that, there're obviously much more to it than loose or tight. You can be loose or tight at differing speeds on the same corner given your angle of entry, exit, throttle pickup point, steering wheel inputs, throttle inputs, degree of braking skill etc. Not to mention what's coming up after the corner or how you navigated the previous section of track, your position in a race (if racing), if you're going for a fastest lap time or going the distance in an enduro. That's the beauty of corners and racing in general, a million ways to do it wrong and right At the very least finish the race/lap and that will put you ahead of some people

Has to be from a 25G from an SR not a plain T25 from a CA as the brackets are different. I don't expect to pay much for one of these and I have some bits and pieces to swap if interested (check my Sig). Reply here or PM me Can pickup if you're nearby or will pay postage. Cheers

Cheers mate. I know what it's like when you're starting out and want to be sure of things before you go thrashing the car so I help out where I can. Have fun out there

My circumstances are a little different because I'm running a lowly CA S13 with no power but my water temps don't break 90 and my oil temps have only seen over 100 on a handful of occassions. I'm running the stock clutch fan and shroud, alloy radiator, Greddy relocater, BTR oil cooler thermostat, Just Jap 13row oil cooler (mounted in driver side air damn under the headlight and my front bar is vented to feed it). I'm just using standard coolant and Shell Helix blah blah 10w40 oil so nothing special. I expect I'd be running higher temps if the car made more power but I watch temps like a hawk and run a few cool down laps when necessary (I can run 8 or so laps at time without issue, my brakes then become the problem). As was said above, 130 is in my opinion the upper limit of safe, for me 120 is as high as I'd personally want to go. That does depend on your oil though, different quality oils will handle higher temps without breaking down. I use cheap oil so I play it safe with my temps. Sustained water temps over 100 is a "no no" in my opinion.

Master Cylinder SOLD Indicator Stalk SOLD

PICS!

I used all factory bolt holes in my setup and made up a frame for the Velo mounts to sit on. I braced mine front and back as well, it's nice and rigid.

Wasn't anyone I know driving that White 33, what were you guys in?

That's awesome, nice and low. Love the shuttle command centre console too

That's some serious fab work to mount a seat

I dunno how you fit in the 180 Dane, even mounted flat on the floor. Must be a squeeze with the helmet on?

In the Silvia I mounted my seat in a similar fashion to Duncan, I'm pretty close to the wheel and using a fully fixed Velo Podium. The high thorax support means I had to spend another few bucks on a quick release wheel to give some extra space on entry and exit. The Silvia doesn't have telescopic adjustment though. My wheel sits about 2-3inchs above my knees and I can easily drape my hands over the wheel at the wrists, I'm only 6ft though so I can get away with being a little closer and not worrying about the roof line. For reference, I also had to centre my mounts properly, I did use the factory seat holes but on a custom frame and the Velo mounts but we moved the seating position closer to the centre of the car when a plumb bob measurement showed the wheel to be off-centre to the seat in factory setup. As Duncan mentioned, closed gives greater control, especially at the limit, on the condition you're not too close and getting all tangled up. We played for ages with dummy fitting so it felt right for me. Downside is you have to be the exact same size as me and like my driving position to drive my car. Not such a bad thing in some ways though

If the factory seats are that crap then it's just another reason to get rid of the Supra...

Hmm I'm not sure what bolts in easily to a Supra. Legal means keeping it reclinable which can be a pain. Yep Bride is uber expensive. Are the seats from an RZ any different to yours? Most top spec cars have decent seats for street driving, the GT-R being an obvious example. Is it the same for Supra's?

Ahh, nah that's all sorted now, got a fully fixed Velo racing seat, driving position is awesome No half broken stock seats giving me hektik driving style.

Were you there Kez? Why didn't you came say hey and what are you talking about with my driving position?

Hmm dunno if I remember seeing that. I was in the two tone silvia with the black wheels and homo rear spoiler

Well I had a blast, dunno about you guys. Who was there and what were you driving?