Jump to content
SAU Community

No Crust Racing

Members
  • Posts

    10,407
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    55
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. I'm on the hunt for a track/drift car at the moment but want it to be road registered so if I need to I can drive it around town or to the track or whatever. Some things I'm not clear on, and I hope someone else can enlighten me, if a car is reg'd in another state that can't be transferred into Vic can it? My understanding is you can cash in that rego and then you have to get a full new rego in Vic? Is that right? Also if a vehicle has a current RWC in another state, is it valid in Vic? The last gray area for me is engineers certificates, as plenty of the cars I'm looking at have had mods or different engines put in. Is an an engineers certificate from another state valid in Vic? Thanks guys, don't wanna roll up to Vic roads and be told I can't reg the car is all. Cheers
  2. It's listed on Ebay but if you want to make me an offer feel free It's a full kit with everything as packaged from the factory. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=270349300520 And yes that is a rotating touch screen and it comes with wireless and two batteries as well. Very spiffy
  3. We have a difference of opinions then No biggy, I've heard that can sometimes happen on the Internetz My offer still stands. Cheers
  4. Pics? Power? K's on engine? 6k might be a bit much when these are selling... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=160316273682 If you're looking to sell around that price let me know.
  5. What suspension is in it?
  6. Would be good to see those pics How long ago was it comp tested and what figures did it return? If you're selling it with the rego then you have to have a RWC in Vic if I recall. So are you selling it with RWC and reg or without? Where abouts in Vic are you?
  7. I'll ask ya the same questions I have on NS Has the motor ever been rebuilt? 190k's on an engine that's had a hard life is a few. Has it been comp tested? You said it was tuned at Chasers, did they just remap the standard ECU? What boost is it running?
  8. Mate I think the For Sale rules say something about listing a price for starters.
  9. No price? Must be giving it away... How much lol
  10. This was a gift a while back. It's a DVP-NS50P and has been removed from the box, turned on once to see it played a DVD and put back in the box. Has all original packaging and is in brand new condition. More details here http://b2b.sony.com/Solutions/product-deta...-yf-dnser-27663 $50 ono Pickup preferred but postage can be arranged at buyers expense.
  11. All SS parts came off at around the 45,000k mark. All standard factory items. Now I have no idea what this stuff is worth so will just slap some prices on and we can go from there. All listed as ONO postage is not included where applicable (Happy to post items not labeled pickup). **R33** Indicator Stalk (Not for cars with Foglights) -$20 Wiper Stalk (Not for cars with rear wiper) - $20 Both for $35 **VY II SS** Exhaust manifolds with shields - $50 Pickup Cats and connecting pipes - $50 Pickup Rolled Chrome Tips - $30 MAF Pipe - $5 or take it free with anything else. The lot for $120 If necessary I can get pics of things as required.
  12. This really comes down to personal choice and what you're trying to achieve with the car. I had the same size wheels and tyres and I opted for -1.5-2 (adjustable up to -4) degrees camber and some very slight flaring. This gave me enough camber for higher speed turns but didn't destroy tyres 'too' quickly. If you do go the roll/flare route get a decent panel shop to do it as the quarter panel sheets join under the lip of the guard and it's also very easy to crack the paint on the lip inside and also where the quard folds in under the wheel arch. Good luck
  13. Interesting... Did he give a reason?
  14. Lucky bugger. By the way, that article of mine you posted is a bit old now. This is newer and has more current images etc. http://www.themotorreport.com.au/16474/200...ially-revealed/
  15. +1 What does that graph tell us...
  16. Old hoses become brittle and do not flex enough to seal. So new hoses might be the go. Natrad should have told you this though? Usually they jump at the chance to sell you more shit. Replace the hose and the clamp, cheap as chips, be sure to clean the connecting pipe on the engine side. Also, while you have that pipe off you can check the thermostat for jamming. Good luck and let us know how you go.
  17. Sounds like I was on the right track then, good to know
  18. Check this out, sweet as! http://www.themotorreport.com.au/16524/200...-r-specv-video/
  19. Check it! GT-R SpecV Video
  20. +1 That's everything I was going to say on the matter It's as though you took the words right out of my mouth... it must have been while you were..... never mind. k thx
  21. That's an interesting one. Would need to hear the sound but for the sake of it inspect the pedal box (the assemnbly that the pedal is connected to) and check the slave cylinder for leaks. What 'kind' of sound is it? A squeek? A rattle? a loud bang? a deeper thud? If you can't pinpoint it at the pedal box or the slave cylinder then you'll probably have to get it inspected at the very least.
  22. I have nothing worthy to add to this thread by the topic caught my eye and now I want footage. This is exactly the kind of stuff I want do when I buy my 34 down the track. Sometimes I wish I was a bit stupider with my finances and had just kept the R33 GT-R! Footage or pics plz PM is fine as not to disrupt this thread.
  23. Hmm, maybe not quite in that order but basically you're on the right track. For power try air filter and exhaust for starters. You have to think carefully about where you want to go because the fuel pump, injectors, turbo and fmic upgrade are all dependent on power figures you're aiming for. You can fit the fuel pump and the fmic without getting a tune but you wont see much gain (as they are supporting mods) unless you add some more boost on the stock turbo. Turbo and injectors requires tune and that's when you'll see some serious power. Work out your power goal first then buy/build accordingly. The Turbo, injectors and tune really need to be done all at once. The rest you can do without upsetting existing systems too much. Don't forget that you may need a clutch and you'll probably want better suspension and brakes also. Have a look through the forums as there's a boatload of R32 lovers here all who have done the same things you're talking about. Check the RB20DET turbo thread for turbo options. Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...