No Crust Racing

You should try and tension it evenly at all corners. Is the cover warped or something? Are they the standard screws holding it in place? You shouldn't have anything fouling on the cover. The noise you describe sounds more like bearing stress than contact with the belts but contact is much more likely/ Sure there's no marks inside the cover anywhere? Le us know how you go.

Post turbo specs and dyno sheet

Free labour FTW Post results when you're done.

Try not to drive it too much if you can avoid it. I might be being overly cautious but that's my style

Roger

Then as I understand it, the stock item is not required, but if it's not broke don't fix it. Why upset a happy system

Depends on the controller. The serious electronic ones have their own solenoid. If you're just using a bleed style one then the solenoid is still required... I think

That's the one. Check the yellow marker to see if it still has the restrictor

Are you tightening the timing belt cover evenly when you're putting it on? Does it do it with the cover sitting on but only very light tightened up?

Call Ben at RacePace Get it tuned FTW y0 lol

+1 You can do it on 2k if you buy second hand and the labour yourself but the cost to go new is not all that much higher. N1's, 2860-7's or, GT-SS's is what you're after. R31Nismoid: What are the -9's? They a direct stock replacement or something while the -7's are the GT-SS'ish equivalent?

Is it running on 5 or something? The WRX sound part makes me think it's not firing all 6? Keen to see this one resolved. Keep us posted

Keep us posted, I'm keen to hear what this was in the end.

My understanding was the car had to be serviced for compliance but only basic items like oil, oil filter and air filter. It should list this on your compliance paperwork. Other things you can check/change are diff and box oil, brake, clutch and power steering, and hicas fluid and of course coolant. If any of them are dirty or you can't find history of them being done then do so for safety, cheap insurance and then you know where you're at with each. Diff fluid will be whatever is recommended factory, most places like repco can tell you this. Same for brake, clutch, power steer and hicas, gearbox you might want to get something slightly better than factory if you have intentions of modifying, there are a million threads on what to use on here so it will come down to personal choie. I went with redline lightweight shockproof. It's expensive but the bo was nicer, BUT there is also a lot to be said about using that so do some research and go with what you like.

Does HICAS affect the steering weight though? Give any reputable Apexi tuner a call and ask them about the HICAS diag on the PowerFC, I know there was one on the factory ECU. Have you check basic stuff like fluid levels? Do you have bulging rack boots? As in when some rack seals start to fail the fluid leaks into the boot under pressure. Let us know how you go.

Make sure it's not just low on fluid, they do gt noisy then too. If you're confident that's the issue then it's a simple task to swap it out. Let us know how you go.

Pressure plate is certainly a possibility if it was not replaced. They fatigue over time and if you have a new clutch the clamping pressure will be higher which is more strain on your pressure plate. The 6-spd tremec in the VY SS I sold a while back had this issue. Take it back to where you had it installed, get them to sort it. Quick smart like Baron said, slip = wear.

Could be a worn bearing, start it cold with a mate in front or vice versa so you can try and pin point it. Lots of ancillary devices can have bearing issues (air con, power steer pump, alternator) If you can be more specific that would help. It will change with temp because friction coefficients are effected by temperature. Hold/Cold causes things to expand and contract etc.

As with anything involving timing you should be vary careful. The adjustable units should have a setting to mimic the stock position. Set them at that point and mark the belt and gear position with a very clear and easily readable marker. When you install the adjustable cam gears make sure nothing moves during the process or it will put the timing out. It's important that nothing rotates during the process or you will have to work out your TDC and start again. If you're confident and take your time and pay attention it should not be an issue. If you're unsure of your skills then best to get the mechanic to do it. In the absolute worst case scenario, incorrect timing will result in pistons meeting valves, in the best case, nothing will happen and you'll save a few bucks depending on what your mechanic wants to charge for fitting. Let us know how you go.

If the hose is popping off then it's either the clamp, the connection between the hose and the radiator connecting pipe (the metal part sticking out of the radiator that the hose slides over). Check the surface of the metal radiator pipe and make sure it's clean, you might also need a new rubber hose as the existing one may be stretched/stuffed. You say the clamp is dead tight, is it an old one? new ones are cheap as shit so try that also. If the thermostat is not opening up then the car would run very hot very fast and that shouldn't cause the pipe to bust off. If the thermo was stuck open the car would take a month of Sundays to warm up and the pipe would have no reason to pop off either. What you have is a weak point in a highly pressurised system, that weak point is where it keeps popping off. If it keeps popping off then you start there, try cleaning the metal pipe from the radiator, try and new clamp, and try a new pipe if that fails. If the radiator cap was faulty it would be leaking from there and venting coolant everywhere from the cap itself so that shouldn't be the issue. Let us know how you go, it should be a simple fix.

I had mine mounted in the flip down compartment underneath the stereo so it was stealth and could not be seen It was an older style Greddy unit I got from eBay for like $10, worked a treat.

Give us an update once you've cleaned the AAC and done an ECU reset.

Hmm no good but at least you're on the trail, keep us posted.

I know it's fine to fill through the shifter in the GTsT but I'm not sure about the GT-R as I didn't have to swap mine when I had the GT-R, I only did it in my GTsT. Only thing I could think of would be overfilling but if you said you'd checked the filler hole and it was fine yeah?

Sweet, good stuff. Another mystery solved.