No Crust Racing

Mine didn't last long soldered, best to swap in some new or second handers. If you're confident it's the problem then the soldering is not worth the headache in the long run. Some may be more damaged that others and be more successfully repaired than others too. good luck.

How old is the battery mate? It might just be stuffed itself? Alternator is a basic electric circuit so check all your fuses and the like as well. Tell us how you go.

Hmm, when I did a fluid swap with the lightweight-shockproof I had no leakages that I knew off. Maybe you over filled it? Though I recall using a full us gallon plus a touch extra to get mine to the filler hole (I filled through this with a pump bottle). I did let mine drain overnight though. It should only leak if it's got too much I'd of thought but I'm not an expert. We're talking a 5-spd manual right?

When you say hiss and spit do you mean as in like boiled coolant? Or do you mean cough and splutter? It could be a lot of problems but the noises you heard will give you a good indication. Could be an AFM, GT-R's are renowned for shitting them. Do you mean it revs to 2000rpm and won't go higher or it dies as in stalls? If it hits an imaginary 2000rpm ceiling then it sounds very much like an AFM (they tend to suffer from dry solder joints on the plug) Give us some more info and we'll see if we can help you out

Hmm, yours is a more curious issue then, most rough idle probs can be solved with the above list but your leaning out implies there's an air leak somewhere. A bad plug would end up with a rich reading as it wouldn't be burning off all the fuel I'd of thought. Keep us posted mate.

Drew do some searching around, also try not to hijack this thread lol, but your issue could be one of the ones on my list. Could also be a crank angle sensor. Test the stuff on the list and see how you go. Let us know...

DiRT: LoL Yeah "I" know that, I was pasting that for those playing along at home

As in... http://www.vi-pec.com/

Problem solved... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lag

Yes -7's will be more responsive but they also require more boost and will NOT be suitable for later goals, which is an important distinction here. So for Bakes they're not the best choice. Cheers on the injector info, that should Help Bakes make a decision about how big to go on those.

Cams/Gears will get him pretty close, it might not be as responsive as the -7's but the -7's will NOT be suitable for his intentions down the track. No point buying two sets of turbos if you don't have to. Also, less boost means less chance of busting the RB's bottom end sooner than one might like...

700's should be fine and give you some head room though I'm not sure if they'll keep up with what the turbo can do later down the track if you do rebuild. Can always sell'em off.

Brand will come down to your personal choice and budget, anything 550cc up should be sufficient for 320kw's from what I understand but if you intend to pop this motor and go for 400rwkw's later you might want to just get a suitable injector now. Results shown on this board indicate that 550's will be close to 90% duty at this power. Which makes me wonder how you can get to 310 like Massive did on stockers, must be some crazy pressure...

Definitely going to need a computer to have it tuned, don't think you had one on your currently equipped items list. . Injectors, I thought, were a must but Massive is saying he made a similar figure without them, I'd not heard of that before and I think I'd rather shell out the extra bucks then lean too hard on the stockers and risk leaning out. What duty cycle are you injectors on at that power Massive? At this power you're starting to push the bottom end so reducing the risk that anything else can go wrong, like running lean on maxed injectors, is a good idea. Ben at RacePace is widely regarded as a GT-R modification and tuning expert so he will have his own opinions on this too and has proven his expertise time and time again. A quick call to him might be a good idea too.

Bakes: Check the thread I posted a link to mate, it has answers to your support mods questions in there which is why I posted it in the first place Massive: "As for the -7's being a better option im pretty sure they are much laggier and a bigger turbo" - Nah mate, the -5's are bigger which is why they will flow over 400rwkw's if required. -7's are the smaller GT-SS/N1 equivalent. My "Good luck" is a genuine one, no sarcasm, have fun with the build process and let us know how you go. Cheers

Looks like we can bag this one up and close it now. Good luck Bakes, be sure to post your results

DiRT: He can't be if he's pointing out they are better than -7's/GT-SS's at the end of his post - He just genuinely thinks they're better options. Bakes: Dyno results seem to show -7's will be more responsive than -5's at this power level. Cams and gears can be used to help the -5's but the rule of thumb appears to be they're a touch too big for 300-330kws.

Worried no, do something about it yes. Could be the AAC Valve (very common cause of idle issues) clean it and see. Could be the AFM, clean it and see. Once those are clean you can try resetting your ECU, which is a good thing to do from time to time anyway. Could be a small vacuum leak somewhere, worry about the first two in that order before this. Are there any other issues along the rev range? You don't have the aircon on when this happens do you? See how you go and let us know. Cheers

That's a pretty general question mate you'd need to be a bit more specific. I assume you're talking about a manual transmission and you're doing a hill start (using the handbrake to hold the car until the clutch starts to bite) You shouldn't get any excessive clunking/noises from the rear during this situation. If the handbrake is not engaging/releasing properly you may be hearing it let go under load (like an auto transmission will do when you take it out of park on a hill as the load on the box forces the pin out harder and faster which makes more noise) If you're experiencing this in a number of cars you might well be hearing something standard. If you're hell keen on a car it's always a good idea to have a pre-purchase inspection done, including a compression test, where you can mention your concerns to your mechanic. He can check it out for you and you can go from there. Good luck.

Mate I asked all of these questions almost identically actually. Check my thread, it covers what you're asking. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/De...in-t236467.html Cheers and good luck. Chuck up a sheet when you get it done and enjoy!

LoL, TMI there bud... =D

Hmm looks the same as Baron's..

Beer Baron has explained that his car, which is for sale I might add, is KV2. Who has the other two?

Here Here!