No Crust Racing

Is it running on 5 or something? The WRX sound part makes me think it's not firing all 6? Keen to see this one resolved. Keep us posted

Keep us posted, I'm keen to hear what this was in the end.

My understanding was the car had to be serviced for compliance but only basic items like oil, oil filter and air filter. It should list this on your compliance paperwork. Other things you can check/change are diff and box oil, brake, clutch and power steering, and hicas fluid and of course coolant. If any of them are dirty or you can't find history of them being done then do so for safety, cheap insurance and then you know where you're at with each. Diff fluid will be whatever is recommended factory, most places like repco can tell you this. Same for brake, clutch, power steer and hicas, gearbox you might want to get something slightly better than factory if you have intentions of modifying, there are a million threads on what to use on here so it will come down to personal choie. I went with redline lightweight shockproof. It's expensive but the bo was nicer, BUT there is also a lot to be said about using that so do some research and go with what you like.

Does HICAS affect the steering weight though? Give any reputable Apexi tuner a call and ask them about the HICAS diag on the PowerFC, I know there was one on the factory ECU. Have you check basic stuff like fluid levels? Do you have bulging rack boots? As in when some rack seals start to fail the fluid leaks into the boot under pressure. Let us know how you go.

Make sure it's not just low on fluid, they do gt noisy then too. If you're confident that's the issue then it's a simple task to swap it out. Let us know how you go.

Pressure plate is certainly a possibility if it was not replaced. They fatigue over time and if you have a new clutch the clamping pressure will be higher which is more strain on your pressure plate. The 6-spd tremec in the VY SS I sold a while back had this issue. Take it back to where you had it installed, get them to sort it. Quick smart like Baron said, slip = wear.

Could be a worn bearing, start it cold with a mate in front or vice versa so you can try and pin point it. Lots of ancillary devices can have bearing issues (air con, power steer pump, alternator) If you can be more specific that would help. It will change with temp because friction coefficients are effected by temperature. Hold/Cold causes things to expand and contract etc.

As with anything involving timing you should be vary careful. The adjustable units should have a setting to mimic the stock position. Set them at that point and mark the belt and gear position with a very clear and easily readable marker. When you install the adjustable cam gears make sure nothing moves during the process or it will put the timing out. It's important that nothing rotates during the process or you will have to work out your TDC and start again. If you're confident and take your time and pay attention it should not be an issue. If you're unsure of your skills then best to get the mechanic to do it. In the absolute worst case scenario, incorrect timing will result in pistons meeting valves, in the best case, nothing will happen and you'll save a few bucks depending on what your mechanic wants to charge for fitting. Let us know how you go.

If the hose is popping off then it's either the clamp, the connection between the hose and the radiator connecting pipe (the metal part sticking out of the radiator that the hose slides over). Check the surface of the metal radiator pipe and make sure it's clean, you might also need a new rubber hose as the existing one may be stretched/stuffed. You say the clamp is dead tight, is it an old one? new ones are cheap as shit so try that also. If the thermostat is not opening up then the car would run very hot very fast and that shouldn't cause the pipe to bust off. If the thermo was stuck open the car would take a month of Sundays to warm up and the pipe would have no reason to pop off either. What you have is a weak point in a highly pressurised system, that weak point is where it keeps popping off. If it keeps popping off then you start there, try cleaning the metal pipe from the radiator, try and new clamp, and try a new pipe if that fails. If the radiator cap was faulty it would be leaking from there and venting coolant everywhere from the cap itself so that shouldn't be the issue. Let us know how you go, it should be a simple fix.

I had mine mounted in the flip down compartment underneath the stereo so it was stealth and could not be seen It was an older style Greddy unit I got from eBay for like $10, worked a treat.

Give us an update once you've cleaned the AAC and done an ECU reset.

Hmm no good but at least you're on the trail, keep us posted.

I know it's fine to fill through the shifter in the GTsT but I'm not sure about the GT-R as I didn't have to swap mine when I had the GT-R, I only did it in my GTsT. Only thing I could think of would be overfilling but if you said you'd checked the filler hole and it was fine yeah?

Sweet, good stuff. Another mystery solved.

Mine didn't last long soldered, best to swap in some new or second handers. If you're confident it's the problem then the soldering is not worth the headache in the long run. Some may be more damaged that others and be more successfully repaired than others too. good luck.

How old is the battery mate? It might just be stuffed itself? Alternator is a basic electric circuit so check all your fuses and the like as well. Tell us how you go.

Hmm, when I did a fluid swap with the lightweight-shockproof I had no leakages that I knew off. Maybe you over filled it? Though I recall using a full us gallon plus a touch extra to get mine to the filler hole (I filled through this with a pump bottle). I did let mine drain overnight though. It should only leak if it's got too much I'd of thought but I'm not an expert. We're talking a 5-spd manual right?

When you say hiss and spit do you mean as in like boiled coolant? Or do you mean cough and splutter? It could be a lot of problems but the noises you heard will give you a good indication. Could be an AFM, GT-R's are renowned for shitting them. Do you mean it revs to 2000rpm and won't go higher or it dies as in stalls? If it hits an imaginary 2000rpm ceiling then it sounds very much like an AFM (they tend to suffer from dry solder joints on the plug) Give us some more info and we'll see if we can help you out

Hmm, yours is a more curious issue then, most rough idle probs can be solved with the above list but your leaning out implies there's an air leak somewhere. A bad plug would end up with a rich reading as it wouldn't be burning off all the fuel I'd of thought. Keep us posted mate.

Drew do some searching around, also try not to hijack this thread lol, but your issue could be one of the ones on my list. Could also be a crank angle sensor. Test the stuff on the list and see how you go. Let us know...

DiRT: LoL Yeah "I" know that, I was pasting that for those playing along at home

As in... http://www.vi-pec.com/

Problem solved... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lag

Yes -7's will be more responsive but they also require more boost and will NOT be suitable for later goals, which is an important distinction here. So for Bakes they're not the best choice. Cheers on the injector info, that should Help Bakes make a decision about how big to go on those.