No Crust Racing

I just read my post, nice typos lol woops. Anyway, If it's not clicking/engaging then you'll likely need an air-con place to check it out. Ask a few mates see if they know or can recommend anyone and always ask for a quote before any work takes place. Be sure to clarify if the quote is free also. Good luck,

Does sound a little low, but as you said if their dyno is low then etc etc. 5% out at 300kWs is 15kW difference. Let us know how you go.

LoL, the tailshaft? There's nothing else in that area turning that's exposed. Good to hear it's sorted

Do you mean there was shielding rubbing on the turbo housing?

I guessed from the laggy comment he meant upgraded but that's a good point of distinction.

Ahh good stuff. Let us know what they find. Hp[efully the pressure plate hasn't collapsed or something.

I get ya and I'm not saying it's THE answer, just something to check. I'm surprised a non=race skyline could even drink that much fuel. Start with the basics and see how you go. Throwing on new turbos without getting a tune is not the most ideal situation anyway.

If there's no click from the engine and noticable jump in the engine vibration from the compressor engaging then the compressor might be at fault. The other common is the blend door being broken (sits in behind the centre stack and to the left of the driver side foot well) You can test it by quite easily by adjusting the settings and seeing if the door is moving. They sometimes pop of the ever that actuates them and sometimes they are busted. See how you go and let us know.

Busted slave cylinder, busted pedal box linkage? Have you checked the fluid level?

Oxygen sensor? Get it tuned ASAP and see what's going on.

Thanks for keeping us posted and giving us your insight, great to see some hard data getting online as it comes to light. Keep it up.

Where are the Nismo side skirts and rear pods? You're not talking about the V-Spec front lip and rear diffuser are you? Skirts and rear bar looks factory. **EDIT** Sorry should've PM'd that, not relevant to the sale really.

Thanks for finally giving us some info on what went wrong guys. Pics would be awesome too!

There's also plenty of exhaust shielding under the car also, it bends and wobbles pretty easily.

Actually that's a really good point, outer lefts are notorious as they do a lot of work.

Is it coming from the cat area? Sometimes the welds break inside the pipe and you get bits of metal caught in the cat that rattles like a mofo, better or worse depending on gas flow. The other option is to get it up on stands and just take a look. Let us know how you go.

I'd be thinking wheel or drive shaft bearing as there's not much else in that area that will make a rotational noise that you haven't already checked. My first guess was rotors but you're confident that's all good. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Sounds like your AAC valve. When I had a bung AFM in the GT-R it would rev to a certain point then cough/flutter and top out at say 2500rpm, load also caused it to do this. It idled fine though. What you're describing sounds more like an AAC valve clogged up. Very easy to clean, do a search it's been covered to death. I've done it personally when I had similar issues and it worked a treat. My idle was stuffed, all over the shop. Very common.

Scathing already posed that question more or less, read up and you can see his and my thoughts on the matter. I'm not going to lose any sleep if you happen to disagree with me lol oh n0s?! A disagreement on the intertubes?! emergency! Still hanging out for some pics and detailed info plz

And I thought "I" had time on my hands... lol I get what you're saying and agree completely though it'd be nice to know what they were doing and how they popped its cherry. For all we know it could've been failed factory component that caused it. As for my above comment, if I was in the biz of tuning cars I can't say I'd want the first blown VQ38 chalked up against my name... Stress testing or not. PICS!

I second that.... This does not bode well for Haltech's reputation...

Yeah he does as he works closely with International Motor Group who import and comply R35's There's was the one used on Aussie Top Gear last night. We were supposed to drive that on the day but it had a bolt through the one of the run flats so we took Carls car instead.

From what I've read (as I've researched this same thing myself) you should get the power you're talking about and the cooler will be fine at this power level.

That is VERY high oil temps 0_0 So it won't crank over at all? You just get the start motor solenoid click? If so then you have to start from there and see if the starter motor is seized and if you can confirm the starter motor is good then you might want to get a compression and leak down test. Sounds like some bad stuff going on inside that RB26. If it does crank but won't start then it's more likely that the excessive engine heat has caused a sensor to fail. If it's clicking a lot then it sounds like it's trying to engage the starter but doesn't have enough voltage or the starter is damaged. You mention the battery can't start the car so the issue could be electrical and starter related. Check all your fuses then try and get a proven starter. Also need more info on whether the car cranks at all or just click click clicks.

That sounds like big Carl's car, and if it is, I've driven it Gun Metal Premium R35 with the LED running lights. Personal plates?